Spectacular hiking and scrambling beside the Sea, under and over dramatic cliffs. Several sections exposed to dangerous falling, not a good choice for persons unaccustomed to exposed scrambling and hiking.

The first section of this route is shared with the Vire des Immortelles traverse — which might be a better choice for a party with greater technical rock-climbing capability.

### Access

Drive the Route des Cretes from Cassis or La Ciotat and park by its intersection (GPS latitude/longitude approx N43.18000 E5.57250) with the spur access road to the Semaphore. Walk south on the road to the Semaphore about 600m. Go around the left (E) side of the Semaphore building, then Left onto a trail marked with yellow paint SouthEast on the crest going gently downward. After about 120m, the wider yellow trail soon curves left away from the crest. Leave that for a narrow trail marked (intermittently) with black paint (also perhaps some older blue-paint triangles). Key is to stay on the crest, aiming for the Bec de l'Aigle rock, roughly SouthEast. After going down another 100m, the trail reaches a flat area, then bears right to the top edge of the cliff, then reaches a big view toward the E (lat/long ~ N43.1732 E5.5773) - about 300m from the Semaphore. Now looking to the E and S there is no cliff visible: the land goes moderately downward S toward a flat area.

Here the Black trail turns Right to go roughly S about 70m down to that flat area, with some scrambling on rocks. Then continue another 15m down to a smaller platform.

### Traverse

See a bolt near the small platform, turn right and face W or NW to look down the first steep section, which goes downward about 10m. This can be taken with a rappel, or down-climbed on positive holds at difficulty not more than 3a.

A dirt trail continues downward moderately for another 50m, then goes more or less horizontal, and after another 75m reaches the overhanging cliff.

After this, it is difficult to get lost. Bolt protection every 15m or so, also opportunities to thread slings around trees or rocks. Stay at the same horizontal level until reach a large subsidence, with a dramatic gap in yellow-brown rocks just a few meters below (see photo). While it is possible for the daring to go directly across the gap, it is also possible to traverse around its right side. The exit from this can be sandy + loose and a bit scary, but protectable with rope with bolt or rock-thread.

Continue W horizontal on the ledge about 100m until reach a steel spiral "pigs tail", with two or three bolts nearby with a rope thru them, with a black paint marking in the shape of a right-angle (see photo). This is the top anchor of the main rappel. (This point is about 400m NW from the first steep 10m down-climb / rappel.)

The length of this single rappel is 30 meters (perhaps a bit less). Its lower section hangs in free space under a big overhang. Making the rappel on a 60m rope gets down to a rock platform below the overhang. The traverse route continues down a dirty gully at the W (descender's right) side of the platform (difficulty 2+ with possible top belay anchor near bottom of rappel).

Using a 70m rope for the main single rappel will reach nearly to the bottom of this gully (and so avoids the need for down-climbing most of it). With stretching of the rope, a 60m rope *might* reach partway down into the gully, perhaps past its most difficult and dirty + loose upper entrance. The lower section of the gully has rock holds that could be down-climbed with good stemming/bridging technique. But in that case, the person rappelling must be very careful not to rappel off the end of the rope and so fall, and must be able to disconnect safely from the rope in the midst of a steep gully.

After this, there's a long section of hiking generally NorthWest on a narrow trail thru prickly bushes with lots of little ups + downs, with dramatic rocks above. Then reach the Pas de la Chevre, a treeless rock face with ledges ascending toward the west (see photos). Very exposed to dangerous falling (but perhaps not as difficult as it looks). Protectable by rope with bolts spaced every 10-15m.

After this more hiking on narrow trail. At around latitude/longitude N43.1852 E5.5618 (about 1500m NW from the big rappel), the trail turns diagonal Right (not necessarily distinct or well-marked) and you climb diagonally left-ward up the slope about 25m, then turn to climb straight up the slope about 20-25m - very steep - toward some smaller cliffs (see photos). Then climb diagonal Left about 25m. Then more directly upward (with a fixed rope) toward a break in the rocks, followed by a little more scrambling up. Finally, a 3m very steep rock dihedral with another fixed rope -- tricky + strenuous exit move, feels like solid 3a (see photo).

Now on the crest (at latitude/longitude ~ N43.1858 E5.5618), see the road Route des Cretes, walk easily about 50m W + N to the Parking (GPS latitude/longitude ~ N43.1863 E5.5614).

### Return

Hike E on the Crest trail. Or, longer distance but easier, walk E on the road back to the start parking.

- The climbing sections are very short. It's mostly a long hike, about 3 km on the main traverse itself from the start Parking on the Route des Cretes to the finish farther W on the Route des Cretes, plus another 3-4 km to return to the start Parking.

- Summer time: could work with an early morning start.

- This traverse could also be done in the opposite direction (W > E), but that requires much more difficult climbing moves.

Alternative: More exposure and climbing with less hiking (and less rope weight) could be obtained by going in and out from the east end (not completing the traverse) - but this requires 3a or 3c climbing to get back out... First go in as far as the top of the big 30m rappel (pig's tail). Now two options for additional exposure or climbing: (a) Set up a Top-Rope on the pigs tail for climbing the upper 15m of the line of the big rappel - nice moves on sandstone (difficulty 4b/c); (b) continue traversing NW at roughly the same horizontal level (similar climbing and protection to what has come before), perhaps until you see an old tree hanging down into space blocking the traverse -- then turn around and come back. Getting the last 15m to the tree is much more difficult climbing than anything previous on this tour, and going beyond the tree the next 20m NW have bad loose rock and are tricky to protect. After perhaps trying those additional options, return from the pigs trail the same way back toward the SE. After the track leaves the overhanging cliff, it goes roughly horizontal for 75m, then uphill for 50m and reaches the base of a cliff. Continue along base of the cliff a short ways until encounter puddingstone rock. Look up and see a line of weakness -- that's the 10m rappel. It can be climbed on positive holes not more difficult than 3a -- but not much protection for the leader. Or continue along the base 10-20m further and find bolts and climb up following those: better protected for the leader, but the climbing moves are harder, more like 3c.

<p>Spectacular hiking and scrambling beside the Sea, under and over dramatic cliffs. Several sections exposed to dangerous falling, not a good choice for persons unaccustomed to exposed scrambling and hiking.</p> <p>The first section of this route is shared with the Vire des Immortelles] traverse &#8211; which might be a better choice for a party with greater technical rock-climbing capability.</p> <h2>Access</h2> <p>Drive the Route des Cretes from Cassis or La Ciotat and park by its intersection (GPS latitude/longitude approx N43.18000 E5.57250) with the spur access road to the Semaphore. Walk south on the road to the Semaphore about 600m. Go around the left (E) side of the Semaphore building, then Left onto a trail marked with yellow paint SouthEast on the crest going gently downward. After about 120m, the wider yellow trail soon curves left away from the crest. Leave that for a narrow trail marked (intermittently) with black paint (also perhaps some older blue-paint triangles). Key is to stay on the crest, aiming for the Bec de l&#8217;Aigle rock, roughly SouthEast. After going down another 100m, the trail reaches a flat area, then bears right to the top edge of the cliff, then reaches a big view toward the E (lat/long ~ N43.1732 E5.5773) - about 300m from the Semaphore. Now looking to the E and S there is no cliff visible: the land goes moderately downward S toward a flat area.</p> <p>Here the Black trail turns Right to go roughly S about 70m down to that flat area, with some scrambling on rocks. Then continue another 15m down to a smaller platform.</p> <h2>Traverse</h2> <p>See a bolt near the small platform, turn right and face W or NW to look down the first steep section, which goes downward about 10m. This can be taken with a rappel, or down-climbed on positive holds at difficulty not more than 3a.</p> <p>A dirt trail continues downward moderately for another 50m, then goes more or less horizontal, and after another 75m reaches the overhanging cliff.</p> <p>After this it is difficult to get lost. Bolt protection every 15m or so, also opportunities to thread slings around trees or rocks. Stay at the same horizontal level until reach a large subsidence, with a dramatic gap in yellow-brown rocks just a few meters below (see photo). While it is possible for the daring to go directly across the gap, it is also possible to traverse around its right side. The exit from this can be sandy + loose and a bit scary, but protectable with rope with bolt or rock-thread.</p> <p>Continue W horizontal on the ledge about 100m until reach a steel spiral &#8220;pigs tail&#8221;, with two or three bolts nearby with a rope thru them, with a black paint marking in the shape of right-angle (see photo). This is the top anchor of the main rappel. (This point is about 400m NW from the first steep 10m down-climb / rappel.)</p> <p>The length of this single rappel is 30 meters (perhaps a bit less). Its lower section hangs in free space under a big overhang. Making the rappel on a 60m rope gets down to a rock platform below the overhang. The traverse route continues down a dirty gully at the W (descender&#8217;s right) side of the platform (difficulty 2+ with possible top belay anchor near bottom of rappel).</p> <p>Using a 70m rope for the main single rappel will reach nearly to the bottom of this gully (and so avoids the need for down-climbing most of it). With stretching of the rope, a 60m rope <em>might</em> reach partway down into the gully, perhaps past its most difficult and dirty + loose upper entrance. The lower section of the gully has rock holds that could be down-climbed with good stemming/bridging technique. But in that case the person rappelling must be very careful not to rappel off the end of the rope and so fall, and must be able to disconnect safely from the rope in the midst of a steep gully.</p> <p>After this there&#8217;s a long section of hiking generally NorthWest on a narrow trail thru prickly bushes with lots of little ups + downs, with dramatic rocks above. Then reach the Pas de la Chevre, a treeless rock face with ledges ascending toward the west (see photos). Very exposed to dangerous falling (but perhaps not as difficult as it looks). Protectable by rope with bolts spaced every 10-15m.</p> <p>After this more hiking on narrow trail. At around latitude/longitude N43.1852 E5.5618 (about 1500m NW from the big rappel), the trail turns diagonal Right (not necessarily distinct or well-marked) and you climb diagonally left-ward up the slope about 25m, then turn to climb straight up the slope about 20-25m - very steep - toward some smaller cliffs (see photos). Then climb diagonal Left about 25m. Then more directly upward (with a fixed rope) toward a break in the rocks, followed by a little more scrambling up. Finally a 3m very steep rock dihedral with another fixed rope &#8211; tricky + strenuous exit move, feels like solid 3a (see photo).</p> <p>Now on the crest (at latitude/longitude ~ N43.1858 E5.5618), see the road Route des Cretes, walk easily about 50m W + N to the Parking (GPS latitude/longitude ~ N43.1863 E5.5614).</p> <h2>Return</h2> <p>Hike E on the Crest trail. Or, longer distance but easier, walk E on the road back to the start parking.</p> <ul> <li><p>The climbing sections are very short. It&#8217;s mostly a long hike, about 3&#160;km on the main traverse itself from the start Parking on the Route des Cretes to the finish farther W on the Route des Cretes, plus another 3-4&#160;km to return to the start Parking.</p></li> <li><p>Summer time: could work with an early morning start.</p></li> <li><p>This traverse could also be done in the opposite direction (W > E), but that requires much more difficult climbing moves.</p></li> </ul> <p>Alternative: More exposure and climbing with less hiking (and less rope weight) could be obtained by going in and out from the east end (not completing the traverse) - but this requires 3a or 3c climbing to get back out &#8230; First go in as far as the top of the big 30m rappel (pig&#8217;s tail). Now two options for additional exposure or climbing: (a) Set up a Top-Rope on the pigs tail for climbing the upper 15m of the line of the big rappel - nice moves on sandstone (difficulty 4b/c); (b) continue traversing NW at roughly the same horizontal level (similar climbing and protection to what has come before), perhaps until you see an old tree hanging down into space blocking the traverse &#8211; then turn around and come back. Getting the last 15m to the tree is much more difficult climbing than anything previous on this tour, and going beyond the tree the next 20m NW have bad loose rock and is tricky to protect. After perhaps trying those additional options, return from the pigs trail the same way back toward the SE. After the track leaves the overhanging cliff, it goes roughly horizontal for 75m, then uphill for 50m and reaches the base of a cliff. Continue along base of the cliff a short ways until encounter puddingstone rock. Look up and see a line of weakness &#8211; that&#8217;s the 10m rappel. It can be climbed on positive holes not more difficult than 3a &#8211; but not much protection for the leader. Or continue along the base 10-20m further and find bolts and climb up following those: better protected for the leader, but the climbing moves are harder, more like 3c. . (or more climbing with less rope weight by doing the traverse in reverse from West to East, but much greated difficulty). . (or another way to get more climbing with less hiking is do the Vire des Immortelles]).</p>

Cap Canaille - Falaises Soubeyranes - Traverse Philemon E > W

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<p>Massif rocheux qui s&#8217;étend de Cassis à La Ciotat</p> <h2>Details</h2> <p>Lire également le dossier sur les Calanques]</p> <h2>Accès (voir le croquis dans les photos en bas de page)</h2> <p>La route des crêtes se situe entre Cassis et La Ciotat. Depuis ces deux villes, elle est clairement indiquée sur les panneaux routiers. Plusieurs parkings selon les secteurs. Un sentier pédestre (balisage jaune) longe la ligne de crête entre Cassis et la Ciotat</p> <h2>Réglementation</h2> <p>Le Cap Canaille fait partie du Parc National des Calanques En période estival, l&#8217;accès aux massifs, est réglementé par arrêté préfectoral. Il est indispensable de consulter les conditions d&#8217;accès dès la veille au soir ou le jour même. La route des crêtes est fermée les jours de grand vent. Attention, cette réglementation, municipale, est indépendante de celle qui régit les accès aux Calanques. Dans ce cas, accès pédestre possible. Par exemple, en 40min depuis La Ciotat (parkings pour les secteurs Sémaphore et 14 juillet par le sentier de bord de mer. Le bivouac sur la route des crêtes ou dans le massif est interdit et est punissable d&#8217;une amende de 68€ / pers. L&#8217;usage du feu est interdit et punissable d&#8217;une amende de 135€</p> <h2>Informations</h2> <p>Une application officielle &#8220;mes Calanques&#8221; informe sur l&#8217;ensemble des richesses du Parc National des Calanques, et permet de connaître l&#8217;état d&#8217;accès des routes, des massifs, des zones interdites&#8230;.</p> <h2>Équipement des voies</h2> <p>Lire cette discussion. Une autre discussion concernant la corrosion des spits inox en zones marines et tropicales.</p> <h2>Matériel</h2> <p>Plus qu’ailleurs, prévoir de quoi gérer le tirage dans les voies à l&#8217;équipement abondant. Les relais ont des points parfois plus espacés qu&#8217;à l&#8217;accoutumé (cela est dû au type de rocher), prévoir le matériel en conséquence.</p> <h2>Exposition</h2> <p>Exposé au SW, le massif n&#8217;est globalement pas abrité du Mistral. La partie W du cirque du 14 juillet] l&#8217;est d&#8217;avantage.</p>

Cap Canaille - Falaises Soubeyranes

## Acceso
aparcar en el parking de sémaphore.

## Acceso
voltear el sémaphore por la izquierda y seguir el acantilado hasta un pequeño espolón rocoso que se ve mas abajo (marcas negras, 3 puntos)

## Itinerario
bajar en la cornisa por un pequeño diedro (3, algún punto) y seguirla. Pasar el rápel del sendero de Philemon, seguir la cornisa evidente. No bajar por el pasamanos hacia el pequeño jardin, seguir todo recto siguiendo los puntos.
subir un corto largo (4+, poco comodo, posibilidad de asegurar el segundo desde la reuníon de mala vida] justo después). atravesar el pequeño jardin y remontar la fisura con el árbol (4+) hasta una reunión con una buena plataforma. Remontar el último largo precioso ! (5b)

Desde entonces 3 alternativas:

- salida por el pequeño sendero a la izquierda

- último largo de pendule] (6b) a la izquierda

- último largo de 2 vauriens 3 canailles] a la derecha (6a)

Ver version francesa

<h2>Acceso</h2> <p>aparcar en el parking de sémaphore.</p> <h2>Acceso</h2> <p>voltear el sémaphore por la izquierda y seguir el acantilado hasta un pequeño espolón rocoso que se ve mas abajo (marcas negras, 3 puntos)</p> <h2>Itinerario</h2> <p>bajar en la cornisa por un pequeño diedro (3, algún punto) y seguirla. Pasar el rápel del sendero de Philemon, seguir la cornisa evidente. No bajar por el pasamanos hacia el pequeño jardin, seguir todo recto siguiendo los puntos. subir un corto largo (4+, poco comodo, posibilidad de asegurar el segundo desde la reuníon de mala vida] justo después). atravesar el pequeño jardin y remontar la fisura con el árbol (4+) hasta una reunión con una buena plataforma. Remontar el último largo precioso&#160;! (5b)</p> <p>Desde entonces 3 alternativas:</p> <ul> <li><p>salida por el pequeño sendero a la izquierda</p></li> <li><p>último largo de pendule] (6b) a la izquierda</p></li> <li><p>último largo de 2 vauriens 3 canailles] a la derecha (6a)</p></li> </ul> <p>Ver version francesa</p>

Cap Canaille - Falaises Soubeyranes - Traversée supérieure

User

Aparcar en el parking del sector "ouvreur de Bouse", salir en le valle hacia la izquierda (NE). Al final del valle, llegar al pie del acantilado por una cornisa expuesta hacia el oeste (scellements), una senda permite bordear más o menos el pie del acantilado. pasamos bajo el sector "ouvreur de bouse" luego llegamos a una cornisa aérea arenosa por una chimenea en 4c (equipada con scellements).
Al final de la cornisa al llegar al sector "cathédrale", rápel de 15/20m para llegar a un jardin. seguir hasta llegar a otra cornisa aérea. cruzamos "Le baudrier d'orion". Paso de 4c, luego arrastrarse no muy comodo (5?), salir hacia arriba por una fisura llena de vegetacíon expuesta. llegamos a otro jardin colgado que se estrecha luego cornisas que llevan a un rápel de 8m (pasamanos viejo). llegamos al último jardin del cual salimos al nivel de una enorme laja despegada (notable del rápel) en 2 largos : 5a, desequipado, reunión con pinos luego 5c, 2 pitones, 1 spit, reunión con árbol posible.
otras cornisas (con viejos cables) que llevan a la salida... y se acabó

No despreciar el largo aventurero : fácil perderse, poco equipamiento alguna vez, senda muy mal marcada.

<p>Aparcar en el parking del sector &#8220;ouvreur de Bouse&#8221;, salir en le valle hacia la izquierda (NE). Al final del valle, llegar al pie del acantilado por una cornisa expuesta hacia el oeste (scellements), una senda permite bordear más o menos el pie del acantilado. pasamos bajo el sector &#8220;ouvreur de bouse&#8221; luego llegamos a una cornisa aérea arenosa por una chimenea en 4c (equipada con scellements). Al final de la cornisa al llegar al sector &#8220;cathédrale&#8221;, rápel de 15/20m para llegar a un jardin. seguir hasta llegar a otra cornisa aérea. cruzamos &#8220;Le baudrier d&#8217;orion&#8221;. Paso de 4c, luego arrastrarse no muy comodo (5?), salir hacia arriba por una fisura llena de vegetacíon expuesta. llegamos a otro jardin colgado que se estrecha luego cornisas que llevan a un rápel de 8m (pasamanos viejo). llegamos al último jardin del cual salimos al nivel de una enorme laja despegada (notable del rápel) en 2 largos&#160;: 5a, desequipado, reunión con pinos luego 5c, 2 pitones, 1 spit, reunión con árbol posible. otras cornisas (con viejos cables) que llevan a la salida&#8230; y se acabó</p> <p>No despreciar el largo aventurero&#160;: fácil perderse, poco equipamiento alguna vez, senda muy mal marcada.</p>

Cap Canaille - Falaises Soubeyranes - Traversée Elianac / Emigrés

Les Émigrés

<h2>Ski de randonnée</h2> <h3>Alpes</h3> <h4>Mont Blanc</h4> <p>Mont Blanc</p> <h4>Écrins</h4> <h4>Vanoise</h4> <h4>Vercors</h4> <p>Vercors</p> <h4>Chartreuse</h4> <p>La Chartreuse est un massif bien arrosé qui lui assure un bon enneigement malgré son altitude modeste (Chamechaude étant son point culminant (2082m). La première partie est généralement boisée alors que les sommets sont souvent défendus par de grandes barres rocheuses qui donne a ce massif un caractère qui lui est propre.</p> <h3>Pyrénées</h3> <h2>Alpinisme</h2> <h3>Alpes</h3> <h4>Chamonix - Mont Blanc</h4> <h4>Écrins</h4> <h4>Vanoise</h4> <h3>Pyrénées</h3> <h2>Escalade</h2> <h3>Verdon</h3> <h3>Hautes Alpes</h3> <ul> <li>Céuse</li> <li>Orpierre</li> </ul>

Cap Canaille - Falaises Soubeyranes

Details

Accès (voir le croquis dans les photos en bas de page)

Réglementation

Informations

Équipement des voies

Matériel

Exposition

Routes

Cap Canaille - Falaises Soubeyranes - Traverse Philemon E > W

Cap Canaille - Falaises Soubeyranes - Traversée supérieure

Cap Canaille - Falaises Soubeyranes - Traversée Elianac / Emigrés

Les Émigrés

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