## Approach

From the top of the Diavolezza lift (2973m), go down to the S to reach the glacier (2757m). Go due S along the rocks covering the glacier to Pte 3146. At a flat area of the glacier, traverse W towards Pte 3186 (col) to the N of the Fortezzagrat. From this col, firstly follow the glacier on the western side of the ridge, then on the eastern side until you come up against the S ridge of the Fortezzagrat (3372m). Climb the ridge (III, well equipped and with yellow/red markings). From the Fortezzagrat, pass to the S, under the Aiguilles de Bellavista to reach the Marco e Rosa hut to the W (3597). The traverse is made at 3600m. However, as there are many crevasses, it is necessary to make a lot of detours.

* The approach to the Marco e Rosa hut is long and not always obvious and thus is a major part of the difficulty for this ascension. (A big mountain feel with steep slopes, lots of crevasses, rock climbing.... just to reach the hut!)

<h2>Approach</h2> <p>From the top of the Diavolezza lift (2973m), go down to the S to reach the glacier (2757m). Go due S along the rocks covering the glacier to Pte 3146. At a flat area of the glacier traverse W towards Pte 3186 (col) to the N of the Fortezzagrat. From this col, firstly follow the glacier on the western side of the ridge, then on the eastern side. until you come up against the S ridge of the Fortezzagrat (3372m). Climb the ridge (III ,well equipped and with yellow/red markings.) From the Fortezzagrat, pass to the S, under the Aiguilles de Bellavista to reach the Marco e Rosa hut to the W (3597). The traverse is made at 3600m. However, as there are many crevasses, it is necessary to make a lot of detours.</p>

From Diavolezza

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<h2>Accès pédestre</h2> <p>Voir la version en italien.</p> <h2>Details</h2> <p>Le bâtiment d&#8217;été (3609&#160;m) et celui d&#8217;hiver (3597&#160;m) sont sur le bord S du bastion rocheux du versant SW de la Spalla del Bernina.</p> <p>Cartes</p> <ul> <li>CNS 1:50.000 «Julierpass»</li> <li>CNS 1:25.000 «Bernina»</li> <li>Carta Multigraphic «Pizzo Bernina-Monte Disgrazia» 1:50.000</li> <li>Kompass 1:50.000 «Bernina-Sondrio».</li> </ul>

Refuge Marco e Rosa

<p>Sur la crête Nord de Bellavista orientale, qui mène au Glacier Fortezza</p>

Fortezza

Routes

From Diavolezza

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