Climb up to the Passo Marinelli occidental and traverse the Vedretta di Scerscen Superiore to the Crast Aguzza gully. Climb this (200m at 40° and then 100m at 45°-50°), to reach the Marco e Rosa hut.

<p>Climb up to the Passo Marinelli occidental and traverse the Vedretta di Scerscen Superiore to the Crast Aguzza gully. Climb this (200m at 40° and then 100m a 45°-50°), to reach the Marco e Rosa hut.</p>

Refuge Marco e Rosa - Marinelli >> Marco e Rosa

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<h2>Accès pédestre</h2> <p>Voir la version en italien.</p> <h2>Details</h2> <p>Le bâtiment d&#8217;été (3609&#160;m) et celui d&#8217;hiver (3597&#160;m) sont sur le bord S du bastion rocheux du versant SW de la Spalla del Bernina.</p> <p>Cartes</p> <ul> <li>CNS 1:50.000 «Julierpass»</li> <li>CNS 1:25.000 «Bernina»</li> <li>Carta Multigraphic «Pizzo Bernina-Monte Disgrazia» 1:50.000</li> <li>Kompass 1:50.000 «Bernina-Sondrio».</li> </ul>

Refuge Marco e Rosa

<h2>Montée</h2> <p>De la Chamana Coaz, monter plein S pour rejoindre le Vadret da Roseg puis E vers 2800&#160;m pour rejoindre le Vadret da la Sella (attention nombreuses crevasses). Passer au-dessus d&#8217;une zone très crevassée vers 2900&#160;m, puis au pied de l&#8217;éperon issu de la Sella (3101&#160;m). Continuer ensuite en traversée pour atteindre le Fuorcla da la Sella. En légère descente, passer au pied du bivouac Parravicini et prendre pied sur le Vedretta di Scerscen superiore.</p> <p>Viser au NE le beau et raide couloir de la Fuorcla Crast&#8217; Aguzza menant au refuge Marc e Rosa.</p> <ul> <li>Une journée toute en montée avec la montée du couloir qui donne un caractère bien alpin à cette traversée.</li> <li>Comme partout en Bernina, attention aux crevasses (particulièrement sur cette étape).</li> </ul>

Fuorcla da la Sella - Traversée Coaz > Marco e Rosa

<h2>Historique</h2> <ul> <li>1<sup>re</sup> (ou 2<sup>e</sup>&#160;?) traversée (SE-NW)&#160;: 28 juillet 1863 - Edward North Buxton, William FitzGerald Digby, Alexander Fleuri, William Edward Hall, Peter Jenny, Montagu Woodmass.</li> </ul> <h2>Bibliographie</h2> <ul> <li><em>Sella Pass</em>, <em>The Alpine Journal</em>, vol.1, 1863, n<sup>o</sup>3, p.137.</li> <li><em>The Glaciers of the Bernina</em> par E. N. Buxton, <em>The Alpine Journal</em>, vol I, 1864, n<sup>o</sup>7, p.348-353.</li> <li><em>Pontresina to Sils Maria by the Sella and Scerscen passes</em> par T. G. Bonney, <em>The Alpine Journal</em>, vol. 6, 1873, n<sup>o</sup>42, p.301.</li> </ul>

Fuorcla da la Sella

## Approach

From the top of the Diavolezza lift (2973m), go down to the S to reach the glacier (2757m). Go due S along the rocks covering the glacier to Pte 3146. At a flat area of the glacier, traverse W towards Pte 3186 (col) to the N of the Fortezzagrat. From this col, firstly follow the glacier on the western side of the ridge, then on the eastern side until you come up against the S ridge of the Fortezzagrat (3372m). Climb the ridge (III, well equipped and with yellow/red markings). From the Fortezzagrat, pass to the S, under the Aiguilles de Bellavista to reach the Marco e Rosa hut to the W (3597). The traverse is made at 3600m. However, as there are many crevasses, it is necessary to make a lot of detours.

* The approach to the Marco e Rosa hut is long and not always obvious and thus is a major part of the difficulty for this ascension. (A big mountain feel with steep slopes, lots of crevasses, rock climbing.... just to reach the hut!)

<h2>Approach</h2> <p>From the top of the Diavolezza lift (2973m), go down to the S to reach the glacier (2757m). Go due S along the rocks covering the glacier to Pte 3146. At a flat area of the glacier traverse W towards Pte 3186 (col) to the N of the Fortezzagrat. From this col, firstly follow the glacier on the western side of the ridge, then on the eastern side. until you come up against the S ridge of the Fortezzagrat (3372m). Climb the ridge (III ,well equipped and with yellow/red markings.) From the Fortezzagrat, pass to the S, under the Aiguilles de Bellavista to reach the Marco e Rosa hut to the W (3597). The traverse is made at 3600m. However, as there are many crevasses, it is necessary to make a lot of detours.</p>

Refuge Marco e Rosa

Accès pédestre

Details

Routes

Refuge Marco e Rosa - Marinelli >> Marco e Rosa

Fuorcla da la Sella - Traversée Coaz > Marco e Rosa

From Diavolezza

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