Bivouac Eccles

Pedestrian access

To go directly to the Eccles Bivouac From the Monzino hut go up the scree to the shrinking Châtelet glacier. Go off to the left to reach the Brouillard glacier. Go up this to the col de Freney (careful numerous and impressive crevasses.) From the col climb up towards the Pointe Eccles by a steep and sustained, snow slope, (often ice) until a level area. Go obliquely to the left on mixed ground to reach the bivouac.

Variant going up the first part of the Innominata ridge From the Monzino hut go up the scree to the shrinking Châtelet glacier which you climb for 100m to a low, rock band (1h.) Overcome this band and continue up steps, identifying a notable pinnacle on the SW ridge, which you reach by a corner crack (4b) and go around on the Châtelet side. Take the best line up the W face on suspect rock to the ridge, (4b, 2h30.) Climb the ridge to the summit of the l’Innominata (3750m, 1h30). Make three abseils to the Col de Frêney, traverse the narrow crest then descend 30m onto the glacier plateau which you cross before overcoming the bergschrund and reaching, by steep slopes, the bivouac Eccles (3850m, 2h).

Details

Refuges Bivouac Eccles :

• the new hut: room for 8, mattress & blankets

• the old hut (50m higher): room for 4 (+ 2 on the floor), 3 mattresses and blankets for 4 (info dated September 2007).

Beware: The altitude mentionned on the IGN map and on the IGN’s Geoportail webservice, 4041m, is wrong. That is the altitude of the Pic Eccles!!