## Acceso

Desde Sarche y Arco, coger una carretera a la izquierda en dirección de Comano Terme, pasar un puente y coger una pequeña carretera ya a la izquierda. Aparcar aquí. Caminando, atravesar otra vez el puente y coger a la izquierda un sendero transitable (propiedad privada) hasta tropezar con el pórtico de una obra hidroeléctrica. La vía inicia a la derecha de este pórtico.

## Itinerario

Los dos primeros largos, muy en travesía, iguales que "Amazzonia".

| Lunghezza | Descripción |
| --------- | ----------- |
| L1,4b     | Subir todo recto, luego atravesar un poco a la izquierda. |
| L2,3a     | Atravesar a la izquierda. |
| L3,5a     | Una pared en placa. |
| L4,4b     | Seguir una rampa en ascendencia hacia a la derecha. |
| L5,5c/6a  | Un paso de V seguido por un paso justo bajo la reunión, los dos en las paredes. |
| L6,4c     | Seguir la laja, luego volver a la izquierda. |
| L7,5a     | Hacia el diedro de izquierda. |
| L8,4b     | Entrar en el diedro. |
| L9,5b     | Seguir el diedro, luego volver a una cornisa a la izquierda al final del largo. |
| L10,5b    | Salir por una pared pequeña. |

Terminar siguiendo una rampa (no equipada) que lleva a la cumbre de la pared.

## Descenso

Desde la cumbre de la pared, coger un sendero que sube hacia el W y las grandes paredes del Piccolo Dain. Seguirlo hasta llegar a un cruce entre un camino ascendente y otro descendente. Coger el camino descendente hasta Sarche, para llegar al parking.

<h2>Acceso</h2> <p>desde Sarche y Arco, coger una carretera a la izquierda en dirección de Comano Terme, pasar un puente y coger una pequeña carretera ya a la izquierda. aparcar aquí. caminando, atravesar otra vez el puente y coger a la izquierda un sendero transitable (propriedad privada) hasta tropezar con el portico de una obra hidroeléctrica. La vía inicia a la derecha de este portico.</p> <h2>Itinerario</h2> <p>Los dos primeros largos, muy en travesía, iguales que &#8220;Amazzonia&#8221;</p> <p>L# | 4b | Subir todo recto, luego atravesar un poco a la izquierda L# | 3a | Atravesar a la izquierda</p> <p>Orizzonti Dolomitici sale encima de R2, un poco a la izquierda.</p> <p>L# | 5a | Una pared en placa L# | 4b | Seguir una rampa en ascendencia hacia a la derecha L# | 5c/6a | Un paso de V seguido por un paso justo bajo la reuníon, los dos en las paredes.<br /> L# | 4c | Seguir la laja, luego volver a la izquierda L# | 5a |Hacia el diedro de izquierda L# | 4b | Entrar en el diedro L# | 5b | Seguir el diedro, luego volver a una cornisa a la izquierda al final del largo L# | 5b | Salir por una pared pequeña</p> <p>Terminar siguiendo una rampa (no equipada) lleva a la cumbre de la pared.</p> <h2>Descenso</h2> <p>Desde la cumbre de la pared, coger un sendero que sube hacia el W y las grandes paredes del Piccolo Dain. seguirlo hasta llegar a un cruce entre un camino ascendente y otro descendente. coger le camino descendente hasta Sarche, para llegar al parking.</p>

Orizzonti Dolomitici

Parete del Limaro - Orizzonti Dolomitici

Camptocamp

camptocamp

Piccolo Dain

Popular very difficult Via Ferrata in pleasant setting near Arco, that offers special option of many fun thoughtful sequences which be done in Free rock-climbing style. Normal Via Ferrata style using cable and hardware for Aid also fun and interesting.

* Free rock-climbing (moves with hands and feet directly on the rock, using fixed hardware and cable only for Protection, not Aid), mainly on face and cracks less than vertical. Difficulty up to 5c or perhaps 6a, much in the 4a to 5b range, also easier links between sections.
* Aid "normal" Via Ferrata style - Not much installed hardware other than the cable and the cable-to-rock attachment posts, so need to be thoughtful about placing feet.
* Protection is fairly good for Via Ferrata of high difficulty on less-than-vertical rock - (see details under Remarks).
* Approach: Straightforward hike, very well signed.
* Descent: easy (but longer) option, or shorter steeper. Also two options for bike or car shuttle to shorten descent.
* Rock mostly sound, though with the usual loose little stuff that gathers on ledges - and maybe a couple of handholds felt a bit wobbly.
* Some polish, but really bad only in a couple of sequences (though enough to get your attention on first pitch off the ground)

##Approach
Driving from the S from Arco or Riva del Garda, come to the central roundabout of the town of Sarche, and take the second exit (somewhat Left) toward W, then immediately turn off right (NW) onto steep driveway and park near its end alongside indoor hall for playing "bocce" - GPS latitude longitude approx (N46.0476 E10.9510). 

##Hiking
Follow the signs for "Rino Pisetta" (or sometimes faded red paint on rock). First up a little, then long gentle E, then up a ways, then NE and some zig-zags roughly NNW, finally SW to bottom start of cable.

##Climb
Lower half mixes straight-up sections with traverse horizontal left or diagonal up left (later a crux horizontal right traverse). Upper half has a long uphill walk generally W (No signs up here, so hope for guidance from faded red paint on rocks) before reaching a short cable on easy ridge soon leading to finish at wooden bench not far from summit of Piccolo Dain (sometimes also called "Dain Picol" or "Cima Garzolet" or "Monte Garzolet").

##Descent
Wide dirt trail down from summit bench overall NNW but with some big zig-zags, to meet asphalt road. Sign for "Sarche" indicates go R (NNE) on road (though there are rumors of a short steep difficult trail toward the L). Soon about 300m meet R turn with sign for "Sarche". Or continue another 130m farther (and up a little) to a three-way fork and take R fork down (roughly E) to meet another road. Go R down this, overall ESE but with many zig-zags, to meet main highway just W of Castel Toblino at the shore of the lake. If did not spot a bike (or car) here (or at the Sport-climbing crags up the steep asphalt road), finish by run/walk alongside highway west for a mile flat, back to Parking. (If truly lazy about the descent, could advance spot a bike or car high in village of Ranzo. Drive car up by way of village of Lon. But that's a lot of extra driving / set-up time just to avoid 460 vertical meters of easy downhill). 

##GPS # useful waypoints

- Parking in town of Sarche . (N46.0476 E10.9510) . (elev ~ 265m) - at W end of indoor hall for playing "bocce".
- bottom start of VF cable . (N46.0527 E10.9521) . (elev ~ 570m)
- summit bench . (N46.0527 E10.9485) . (elev ~ 970m)
- water near below summit . (N46.0572 E10.9448)
- descent trail from summit meets asphalt road . (N46.0596 E10.9419) . (elev ~ 720m) by village of Ranzo.
- top of Trail 613 with sign for "Sarche" . (N46.0619 E10.9440) -- not checked by us.
- turn R at 3-way fork (N46.0630 E10.9447) to start descent to reach main highway near Castel Toblino
- Sport-climbing crags along steep asphalt road . (N46.0598 E10.9638)
- meet main road . (N46.0563 E10.9655) - just W from Castel Toblino, and about 1.6 km / 1.0 mile East from Parking.

##Protection
What happens if a climber should actually take a fall on one of the non-easy sections? If clipping the Via Ferrata kit karabiners only to the steel cable, then fall down to a meter or two below the nearest lower cable-to-rack attachment post. If also connect one karabiner of VF kit to an intermediate steel rung / stemple higher than that attachment post, then fall down to a meter or two below that rung (not so far).

Via Ferrata *Rino Pisetta* has very little fixed hardware other than the cable and its attachment-to-rock posts (because it was desiged to be very difficult). So assuming the Via Ferrata kit is used correctly, the chance of injury from a fall depends on the placement and the quality of the attachment posts.

The quality is similar to many Via Ferrata routes around NE Italy and Dolomites: that is, _lacking_ modern design safety practices: 
(a) well-shaped rubber bumpers on top of the post;
(b) slack cable length, so the low bight of the cable drops down below the post. 

The point of the modern practices is to reduce the chance that a karabiner might _break_ in high-speed impact with attachment post.

The positions of the attachment posts generally fairly close together (compared with many other routes in NE Italy and Dolomites). Too much closer and you'd spend more time re-clipping than climbing. Still if the climber actually falls, because this route is less-than-vertical it is not unlikely to hit something protruding such as a rock horn or a ledge, or a cable-to-rock attachment post - and so not unlikely to get injured perhaps seriously.

One way to avoid this hazard is to use a special Skylotec Skyrider which if properly used keeps the fall very short - (and the cable used in the non-easy sections of this Via Ferrata route is compatible with the Skyrider kit).

Another way to avoid this hazard is to get a normal "climber-following" belay by a rope from above - which means that some _other_ climber must go up first, and carry a short rope and a couple slings and carabiners, and some sort of belay device - and know how to use that equipment in a Via Ferrata context.
. . . professional mountain Guide services often are experienced in guiding via ferrata routes.

<p>Popular very difficult Via Ferrata in pleasant setting near Arco, that offers special option of many fun thoughtful sequences which be done in Free rock-climbing style. Normal Via Ferrata style using cable and hardware for Aid also fun and interesting.</p> <ul> <li>Free rock-climbing (moves with hands and feet directly on the rock, using fixed hardware and cable only for Protection, not Aid), mainly on face and cracks less than vertical. Difficulty up to 5c or perhaps 6a, much in the 4a to 5b range, also easier links between sections.</li> <li>Aid &#8220;normal&#8221; Via Ferrata style - Not much installed hardware other than the cable and the cable-to-rock attachment posts, so need to be thoughtful about placing feet.</li> <li>Protection is fairly good for Via Ferrata of high difficulty on less-than-vertical rock - (see details under Remarks).</li> <li>Approach: Straightforward hike, very well signed.</li> <li>Descent: easy (but longer) option, or shorter steeper. Also two options for bike or car shuttle to shorten descent.</li> <li>Rock mostly sound, though with the usual loose little stuff that gathers on ledges - and maybe a couple of handholds felt a bit wobbly.</li> <li>Some polish, but really bad only in a couple of sequences (though enough to get your attention on first pitch off the ground)</li> </ul> <h2>Approach</h2> <p>Driving from the S from Arco or Riva del Garda, come to the central roundabout of the town of Sarche, and take the second exit (somewhat Left) toward W, then immediately turn off right (NW) onto steep driveway and park near its end alongside indoor hall for playing &#8220;bocce&#8221; - GPS latitude longitude approx (N46.0476 E10.9510).</p> <h2>Hiking</h2> <p>Follow the signs for &#8220;Rino Pisetta&#8221; (or sometimes faded red paint on rock). First up a little, then long gentle E, then up a ways, then NE and some zig-zags roughly NNW, finally SW to bottom start of cable.</p> <h2>Climb</h2> <p>Lower half mixes straight-up sections with traverse horizontal left or diagonal up left (later a crux horizontal right traverse). Upper half has a long uphill walk generally W (No signs up here, so hope for guidance from faded red paint on rocks) before reaching a short cable on easy ridge soon leading to finish at wooden bench not far from summit of Piccolo Dain (sometimes also called &#8220;Dain Picol&#8221; or &#8220;Cima Garzolet&#8221; or &#8220;Monte Garzolet&#8221;).</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Wide dirt trail down from summit bench overall NNW but with some big zig-zags, to meet asphalt road. Sign for &#8220;Sarche&#8221; indicates go R (NNE) on road (though there are rumors of a short steep difficult trail toward the L). Soon about 300m meet R turn with sign for &#8220;Sarche&#8221;. Or continue another 130m farther (and up a little) to a three-way fork and take R fork down (roughly E) to meet another road. Go R down this, overall ESE but with many zig-zags, to meet main highway just W of Castel Toblino at the shore of the lake. If did not spot a bike (or car) here (or at the Sport-climbing crags up the steep asphalt road), finish by run/walk alongside highway west for a mile flat, back to Parking. (If truly lazy about the descent, could advance spot a bike or car high in village of Ranzo. Drive car up by way of village of Lon. But that&#8217;s a lot of extra driving / set-up time just to avoid 460 vertical meters of easy downhill).</p> <h2>GPS # useful waypoints</h2> <ul> <li>Parking in town of Sarche . (N46.0476 E10.9510) . (elev ~ 265m) - at W end of indoor hall for playing &#8220;bocce&#8221;.</li> <li>bottom start of VF cable . (N46.0527 E10.9521) . (elev ~ 570m)</li> <li>summit bench . (N46.0527 E10.9485) . (elev ~ 970m)</li> <li>water near below summit . (N46.0572 E10.9448)</li> <li>descent trail from summit meets asphalt road . (N46.0596 E10.9419) . (elev ~ 720m) by village of Ranzo.</li> <li>top of Trail 613 with sign for &#8220;Sarche&#8221; . (N46.0619 E10.9440) &#8211; not checked by us.</li> <li>turn R at 3-way fork (N46.0630 E10.9447) to start descent to reach main highway near Castel Toblino</li> <li>Sport-climbing crags along steep asphalt road . (N46.0598 E10.9638)</li> <li>meet main road . (N46.0563 E10.9655) - just W from Castel Toblino, and about 1.6&#160;km / 1.0 mile East from Parking.</li> </ul> <h2>Protection</h2> <p>What happens if a climber should actually take a fall on one of the non-easy sections? If clipping the Via Ferrata kit karabiners only to the steel cable, then fall down to a meter or two below the nearest lower cable-to-rack attachment post. If also connect one karabiner of VF kit to an intermediate steel rung / stemple higher than that attachment post, then fall down to a meter or two below that rung (not so far).</p> <p>Via Ferrata <em>Rino Pisetta</em> has very little fixed hardware other than the cable and its attachment-to-rock posts (because it was desiged to be very difficult). So assuming the Via Ferrata kit is used correctly, the chance of injury from a fall depends on the placement and the quality of the attachment posts.</p> <p>The quality is similar to many Via Ferrata routes around NE Italy and Dolomites: that is, <em>lacking</em> modern design safety practices: (a) well-shaped rubber bumpers on top of the post; (b) slack cable length, so the low bight of the cable drops down below the post.</p> <p>The point of the modern practices is to reduce the chance that a karabiner might <em>break</em> in high-speed impact with attachment post.</p> <p>The positions of the attachment posts generally fairly close together (compared with many other routes in NE Italy and Dolomites). Too much closer and you&#8217;d spend more time re-clipping than climbing. Still if the climber actually falls, because this route is less-than-vertical it is not unlikely to hit something protruding such as a rock horn or a ledge, or a cable-to-rock attachment post - and so not unlikely to get injured perhaps seriously.</p> <p>One way to avoid this hazard is to use a special Skylotec Skyrider which if properly used keeps the fall very short - (and the cable used in the non-easy sections of this Via Ferrata route is compatible with the Skyrider kit).</p> <p>Another way to avoid this hazard is to get a normal &#8220;climber-following&#8221; belay by a rope from above - which means that some <em>other</em> climber must go up first, and carry a short rope and a couple slings and carabiners, and some sort of belay device - and know how to use that equipment in a Via Ferrata context. &#8230; professional mountain Guide services often are experienced in guiding via ferrata routes.</p>

Piccolo Dain - via ferrata Rino Pisetta

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Piccolo Dain

Routes

Parete del Limaro - Orizzonti Dolomitici

Piccolo Dain - via ferrata Rino Pisetta

Il sole di David e Michelangelo

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