Clocher du Mont Blanc du Tacul - L'ivresse des latitudes

Great and consistent line, in solid rock up the eminent satellite of Grand Capucin. Various climb making use of the logical system of cracks up the face, with several delicate and technical passages. Despite a popular area, the face is rather isolated and uncrowded due to solely harder routes. The route does not get to any summit but makes perfect use of the most stable and inspiring part of the rock and finishes on a platform with an astonishing view. The climb is demanding, but relatively safe and uncomplicated. The retreat is safe with rappels.

Approach

1h from Torino, 2h from l’Aiguille du Midi (much care should be taken if the glacier is not in best shape).

• From Toringo follow rather visible and common path down towards Tour Ronde. Take the smaller path going right when the main route leads towards the Aiguille d’Entreves and Tour Ronde normal route. Continue the traverse up to Grand Capucin plateau (usually with tents during the season).

• Leaving the Grand Capucin on the right ascent uphill, along with the Trident du Tacul and the Chandelle. Access to the wall goes through the deep crevasses and may change often. A snow bridge should allow getting to the starting ledge.

Route (departure with Kousmine)

L# | 6b | 40m | Climb the obvious crack in the middle of the ‘triangle’. Wider in its lower part, then it divides in smaller. Choose the right crack to exit (piton). Then a few moves to the R1 of Kusmine L# | 5c | 45m | Traverse to the right, climbing rather easy but delicate wall, to then enter the corner with a system of cracks to the left (some loose rocks). Anchor on a huge ledge to the left. (this is where the alternative start meets the original route) L# | 6c+ | 30m | Take the strenuous and technical crack straight up. Protected with an additional bolt and 2 old pitons. Some delicate movements towards the end. Hanging anchor on the left. L# | 6b+ | 30m | Follow the system of cracks straight up. Several delicate moves, protected with an additional bolt above the anchor. Cross through the stripe of calcite in steep but easy section to exit in a corner. The anchor is on a comfortable ledge in a niche just to the right. L# | 7a/7a+ | 40m | Climb the short corner above the anchor and traverse to the right (spit). Reach the piton in right then cross to the finger crack to the right above (starts with a spit). Superb technical fissure (~10 meters) becoming wider towards the end. Anchor on a big ledge to the left. L# | 6c | 40m | Delicate traverse to the right (spit), then enter the significant vertical crack until it meets a horizontal one. Move right a bit and up until the bolt, which protects a technical boulder that lets you into another hand crack. Follow it until the anchor on a huge tarasse on the left. L# | 5c | 20m | Take the wide, obvious crack straight after the anchor. Some small crimps (and #4) may help those uncomfortable with off-width. Exit the crack into easy terrain and the final anchor to the right.

The original route departs more to the left with three pitches (6c, 6b, 5c instead of L1, L2). See Remarks

Descent

• Rappels along the Empire State Building (follow the pillar and move constantly to the right) or along the Piller Rouge. Decent selection of fresh bolted and chained anchors. 50m ropes are enough and comfortable.

• All anchors bolted with chains, fairly fresh.

• Some bolts in difficulties, sparse but sufficient.

• Originally the route departs on the left, but it seems natural to start with the first pitch of Kusmine and then join the route at its first anchor with one pitch of 5c.

• Due to the bad condition of the glacier the base of the route may be not accessible directly. In such case, you may start where Il pifferaio di spit join the Kousmine variant in its first anchor.