Éperon de la Brenva

Approach

Go to the Bivouac de la Fourche either from the Aiguille du Midi or the Pointe Helbronner.

Route

From the Fourche bivouac, Make an abseil down onto the glacier in the Brenva bowl, (the balustrade of the hut is ideal for this.) Go across to the Gussfeld Couloir which you climb to reach the Brenva Spur, 50-55°. Once on the spur. Climb it up to the last rock step, (4300m), 45-50°.

From here there are three options :

• Go around the seracs to the left.
• Go straight up, steep but not very exposed.
• Go around to the right, make a (about) 10m abseil (pegs in place) then a short, very exposed traverse. Traverse further to reach the foot of the ridge next to the Mur de la Côte.

Continue to the summit of Mont Blanc

Descent

By one of the many classic routes :

• The 3 Monts Blancs to the Aiguille du Midi.
• The Bosses ridge and the Gouter hut .
• The Bosses ridge and the Grands Mulets hut (sérac fall risk).
• The Aiguilles Grises Route (to get back to Italy).