Rocher des Mottets (Chamonix) - Quand Ali Sonne

A weird concept of a route, involving much “pulling” on bolts in the initial stages, followed by a long traversing section, to finally finish up the last two pitches of an established route.

Access

Start from the Buvette du Rocher des Mottets. This can be reached by marked footpaths , either from Chamonix or Le Bois. It can also be reached by descending the marked footpath from Montenvers. However, the best way is to climb one of the three Via Cordas, (Alpina, Caline, Princesse,) from Le Bois directly to the buvette.

Approach # 30mins.

The route takes the skyline rock spur , some of which is visible from the buvette and whose side facing the buvette is nearly always wet, (strange fountains coming out of the rock.) From the buvette, follow the path which is the winter access path from the glacier for the skiers returning from the Vallee Blanche. The path deteriorates and some bushwacking is required to reach a point overlooking the glacier near a very large, unstable boulder. From here you should be able to see a large tepee shaped boulder with a small cairn on top near the smooth slabs just above the base of the spur. Make your way as best as possible to this until you see the first bolt.

Route #3h00

L# | A short pitch to get established on the rock. The slabs look/are at an easy angle but mostly holdless and very poor friction. Deceptive. L# | The bolts are very close together and it becomes obvious why. Another short pitch recommended. L# | The bolts are even closer together! Again recommended to keep the pitch short. L# | After a short section finally you reach a decent handhold, then trend left to a fixed bit of rope, which allows you to traverse left across a watercourse. L# | Directly upwards to reach easy slabs, then before they steepen again go leftwards to a bolt just above some bushes. L# | Almost horizontal traverse pitch, with one bit of downclimbing, fixed rope and 2 bolts. L# | Rising diagonally leftwards. L#8-10 | Continue traversing leftwards to join the belay at the top of pitch 5 on Josiane L# | Pitch 6 of Josiane (5c) L# | Pitch 7 of Josiane (5b)

Descent

From the top of the route follow the climbers path, behind the geodiesic post, to reach the main path descending from Montenvers to the Buvette de Mottets. From here, either go upwards to catch the train (and crowds) at Montenvers or descend to Le Bois/Chamonix via the buvette.

If started from Le Bois by first climbing one of the Via Cordas you end up doing over 30 pitches and over 800m height gain. Many of the belays are on single bolts. As the bolts are often close together, it is usually possible to climb up an clip the next bolt above. The route goes at 5b/c and A0. No idea what the free grade would be though the original grading claimed 5b/c or A0! After Pitch 4 the climbing is no harder than 4b/c, except for the last two pitches of Josiane. Great position, away from the crowds, illogical but lots of fun in its own way.