Situated above the village of “Les Bois”, the route takes a line up the slabby rocks of Mottets (north facing).

##Approach # 45 mins
From the heliport in Les Bois cross the river Arveyron (bridge)  and take any of the mountain bike trails except the “Montee de Pepe).  These all ascend to a signpost “sommet de la norvege”.  (Start of the Via Corda Alpina).  Follow the path to the right around three hairpins, past a little artificial dam in a stream and continue until just before a rockfall and sign post “Voie Caline”, (might now be missing!).  If you get to some metal ladders you have gone to far!.  Follow a path on the right, with cables and metal steps, to the start of the route.  NB, before you get to the signpost you will have passed another, newer route called the “Princesse”, which takes a line to the right of Voie Caline.

##Route
The route consists of 19 pitches with an average length of 25 metres, well equipped with bolts and easy to follow. The first two or three pitches go straight up, the next two traverse to the right to reach an easy angled section where a roped party can move together.  The last five or six pitches are a similar grade to the first three.
Alternative description : http://buvettedesmottets.com/docfr/docfr/escfr_05.html

##Descent
From the last belay, follow to the right (W) faint tracks and cairns to the “Buvette des Mottets”, refreshments available.  From here follow the path back towards Chamonix, and after about 20 minutes take the signposted turn off on the right, which brings you back to Les Bois. (1h)

* An enjoyable outing, not sustained, but quite long

<p>Situated above the village of “Les Bois”, the route takes a line up the slabby rocks of Mottets (north facing).</p> <h2>Approach # 45 mins</h2> <p>From the heliport in Les Bois cross the river Arveyron (bridge) and take any of the mountain bike trails except the “Montee de Pepe). These all ascend to a signpost “sommet de la norvege”. (Start of the Via Corda Alpina). Follow the path to the right around three hairpins, past a little artificial dam in a stream and continue until just before a rockfall and sign post “Voie Caline”, (might now be missing!). If you get to some metal ladders you have gone to far!. Follow a path on the right, with cables and metal steps, to the start of the route. NB, before you get to the signpost you will have passed another, newer route called the “Princesse”, which takes a line to the right of Voie Caline.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>The route consists of 19 pitches with an average length of 25 metres, well equipped with bolts and easy to follow. The first two or three pitches go straight up, the next two traverse to the right to reach an easy angled section where a roped party can move together. The last five or six pitches are a similar grade to the first three. Alternative description&#160;: http://buvettedesmottets.com/docfr/docfr/escfr_05.html</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>From the last belay, follow to the right (W) faint tracks and cairns to the “Buvette des Mottets”, refreshments available. From here follow the path back towards Chamonix, and after about 20 minutes take the signposted turn off on the right, which brings you back to Les Bois. (1h)</p> <ul> <li>An enjoyable outing, not sustained, but quite long</li> </ul>

sommets bien blancs

départ voie caline

la fin, vue d'ensemble

jolie vue

en plein décollage

vers la fin

Rocher des Mottets (Chamonix) - Câline route

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<p>A cliff below Montenvers; giving several long routes at a reasonable grade and well bolted.</p> <p>Bolts type &#8220;clés en mains&#8221;&#160;; A maximum of 12 bolts per pitch. Equipment: an abseil rope, helmet, 12 qyuickdraws, plus the usual multipitch gear.</p> <p>Approach: From les Planards in 1h15,From the heliport (DZ) of Les Bois in 1h or from Montenvers station in 30 minutes. Take the faint path behind &#8220;Buvette de Mottets&#8221; and follow cairns to the top of La Chorale (5-10mins), Abseil down this route</p> <p>The routes were opened from above between 2001 and 2004.</p>

Rocher des Mottets (Chamonix)

A recommended route does the first two pitches of "Schap'aux Mottets and the last three pitches of "Voix des Tenors".

### Approach
For the approach and other information: [Rives de la Mer de Glace, Les Mottets](https://www.camptocamp.org/summits/157848/en/rives-de-la-mer-de-glace-les-mottets)

Descend to the foot of the cliff by abseilling down the "Chorale".

The route starts at the lower right hand end of the cliff.

For information on this and other routes on the cliff: [buvettedesmottets.com](http://buvettedesmottets.com/docfr/docfr/escfr_03.html)

### Route
Five pitches, all 5+

### Descent
Walk back to the Buvette and then either up to the train from Montenvers or descend the track to Les Planards/Les Bois.

<p>A recommended route does the first two pitches of &#8220;Schap&#8217;aux Mottets and the last three pitches of &#8220;Voix des Tenors&#8221;.</p> <h2>Approach</h2> <p>For the approach and other information&#160;: summits/157848/en/rives-de-la-mer-de-glace-les-mottets en</p> <p>Descend to the foot of the cliff by abseilling down the &#8220;Chorale&#8221;.</p> <p>The route starts at the lower right hand end of the cliff.</p> <p>For infortmation on this and other routes on the cliff: http://buvettedesmottets.com/docfr/docfr/escfr_03.html</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>Five pitches, all 5+</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Walk back to the Buvette and then either up to the train from Montenvers or descend the track to Les Planards/Les Bois.</p>

Rocher des Mottets (Chamonix) - Chap'aux Mottets

## Vía

Vía de 4 largos: 5a, 5c, 6a, 5c. Cuidado!!!!!!! Mejor estar sobrado en este nivel porque está poco equipado; 6 spits como mucho en cada largo (difícil de proteger menos el último largo). Además, los pasos no están protegidos.

Para el acceso y varias informaciones: [Rives de la Mer de Glace - Les Mottets](https://www.camptocamp.org/summits/157848/fr/rives-de-la-mer-de-glace-les-mottets). Contornear el chalet de Mottets por la izquierda pasando cerca del pequeño lago y seguir la cresta (hitos) en un momento dado a la derecha 2 pequeños hitos + 1 tercer con un pequeño cartel blanco que indica el acceso al rápel más abajo vertiente Mer de Glace. Cuidado: 4 largos buenos.

Dibujo aquí: [Buvette des Mottets](http://buvettedesmottets.com/docfr/docfr/escfr_03.html)

Vía de bajada para todas las vías de Mottets.

<p>Vía de 4 largos&#160;: 5a, 5c, 6a, 5c. Cuidado!!!!!!! Mejor estar sobrado e este nivel porque esta poco equipado; 6 spits como mucho en cada largo (difícil de porteger menso el último largo). Ademas los pasos no estan protegidos.</p> <p>Para el acceso y varias informaciones&#160;: http://www.camptocamp.org/summits/157848/fr/rives-de-la-mer-de-glace-les-mottets Contornear el chalet de Mottets por la izquierda pasando cerca del pequeño lago y seguir la cresta (hitos) en un momento dado a la derecha 2 pequeños hitos + 1 tercer con un pequeño cartel blanco que indica el acceso al rápel mas abajo vertiente Mer de Glace. Cuidado: 4 largos buenos.</p> <p>Dibujo aqui&#160;: http://buvettedesmottets.com/docfr/docfr/escfr_03.html</p> <p>Vía de bajada para todas las vías de Mottets</p>

Rocher des Mottets (Chamonix) - La chorale

## Montée

Depuis le parking des Planards, suivre la piste forestière au NE (piste de retour de la Vallée Blanche), traverser la voie de chemin de fer, poursuivre sur la piste : quelques lacets et plats pour arriver à la cabane / buvette des Mottets (au S du point 1638 m) surplombant la Mer de Glace.

## Retour

Par le même itinéraire.

- En hiver, cet itinéraire est celui du retour à ski de la Vallée Blanche.

<p>From the Montenvers Car Park, go on the NE, pass the Luge d’été, pass the Lift, continue straight and pass the Montenvers train. Follow the track to go slightly up to the Cabane des Rochers des Mottets (1638m). It is not the best for ski-mountaineering but it could be an interesting route for snow shoes. At the end, you have a view the Mer de Glace</p> <p>It is the end of the famous Vallée Blanche in Chamonix.</p>

Rocher des Mottets (Chamonix) - From Chamonix - end of Vallée Blanche

## Acceso

### Acceso en el bar de Mottets

1. Desde "les Planards" en 1h 15 por el camino de vuelta de la Vallée Blanche o desde la DZ de Bois (socorros de montaña) en 1h.
2. Desde Montenvers en 25 min.
3. Acceso por la via corda (preciosa combinación).

### Acceso al pie de las vías

En 10 min desde el bar de Mottets, luego por 4 rápeles de 50m en La Chorale. Inicio de los rápeles de la vía se conoce por el pasamanos que deja la última reunión para llegar a un pequeño alerce.

## Itinerario

| Lunghezza | Descrizione |
| --------- | ----------- |
| L1,5b | |
| L2,5b | Estos 2 primeros largos son los mas "verticales". |
| L3,6a | (1 paso / 1 punto). Largo muy corto. Podemos combinar con L2 o L4 con cuerda de 2×60 m. |
| L4,5c | |
| L5,6a | 5c con 1 paso de 6a. |
| L6,5b | |
| L7 | Pasamanos |

## Descenso

Por el camino de bajada de la Vallée Blanche.

Equipamiento con plaquetas. No se puede proteger entre los puntos.

Para el acceso y más información ver tambien [Rives de la Mer de Glace, Les Mottets](http://www.camptocamp.org/summits/157848/fr/rives-de-la-mer-de-glace-les-mottets).

<p>Route with 5 pitches: 5+, 5b, 5+, 6a, 5b as written in the Envers des Aiguilles guidebook. Mainly friction climbing on slabs, not too steep but few holds.</p> <p>For details of the approach and other information see also, summits/157848/fr/rives-de-la-mer-de-glace-les-mottets</p> <h2>Approach</h2> <p><strong>To the buvette des Mottets</strong> 1/ 1.15h from les Planards by the return path from the Vallee Blanche or 1h from the heliport (DZ) at Les Bois 2/ From the Montenvers train station in 25 min 3/ By climbing up the &#8220;via corda&#8221; first, (a good day out!)</p> <p><strong>Access to the foot of the routes</strong> In 10 mins from the buvette des Mottets then 4×50&#160;m abseils down La Chorale. The start of the abseils is recognisable by a fixed hand line from a small larch tree down to the first abseil point.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>L#| 5b| L#| 5b| These first two pitches are the steepest&#8221;. L#| 6a |(1 move / 1 bolt). Very short pitch. Possible to link with either pitch 2 or 4, if you have 2×60&#160;m ropes. L#| 5c| L#| 5c |With 1 move of 6a. L#| 5b| L#| | In-situ hand line</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Back to the buvette then down the track towards Chamonix Topo&#160;: http://buvettedesmottets.com/docfr/docfr/escfr_03.html</p> <p>Bolts with hangars. Not possible to place extra protection between bolts.</p>

magnifique dalle, "Les Ténors" passent au dessus

accès aux rappels

départ commun avec les" Chap'aux Mottets"

L1 assez raide

Voie des Ténors - L4

la belle dalle

sortie avec la corde fixe

Emplacement de bivouac au montenvers

vue plongeante

Buvette des Mottets - Sentier d'accès aux voies à gauche, derrière le plan d'eau

Voie des Ténors - Dernière longueur - facile

1er rappel

Rocher des Mottets (Chamonix) - Voie des Ténors

##Approach

From the heliport in Les Bois cross the river Arveyron (bridge) and take any of the mountain bike trails, (except the “Montee de Pepe).  These all ascend to a signpost “Sommet de la Norvege”.  A few metres behind this signpost is another sign  “via corda alpina”, attached to a tree which marks the start of the route. Due to its popularity, the correct route is well worn.

##Route:

Follow the rock steps interspersed with walking sections; no need to untie as the next stretch of rock climbing is never far away, allowing yourself to be guided by the cairns, bolts etc, which mark the route.

The route is in six parts:

- The chamois climb

- The passage of the “sabinette”

- The theft of the “perfo”

- The ledge of the buck and the traverse of the Italians.

(A 90 metre traverse, being careful to descend slightly to the left and to avoid climbing too high.  There is a cable to stop you going too high)

- The veterans wall

- Canyon and Oasis

Hopefully, the names will become understandable once you have done the route!

##Descent:

Continue along the (now not so) faint track  (Canyon and Oasis) to the “Buvette des Mottets”, refreshments available.  From here follow the path direction Chamonix, and after about 20 minutes take the signposted turn off on the right, which brings you back to Le Bois. (1h)

Good practice in moving quickly while roped together.  If you decide to pitch it, be prepared to bivouac!
The route combines walking and climbing and so gives good experience in moving safely on easy ground.
The route is equipped with bolts, though not necessarily at the belays.  However, depending on the level of the party, take some slings for the belays and for runners using trees/bushes.

<h2>Approach</h2> <p>From the heliport in Les Bois cross the river Arveyron (bridge) and take any of the mountain bike trails, (except the “Montee de Pepe). These all ascend to a signpost “Sommet de la Norvege”. A few metres behind this signpost is another sign “via corda alpina”, attached to a tree which marks the start of the route. Due to its popularity, the correct route is well worn.</p> <h2>Route:</h2> <p>Follow the rock steps interspersed with walking sections; no need to untie as the next stretch of rock climbing is never far away, allowing yourself to be guided by the cairns, bolts etc, which mark the route.</p> <p>The route is in six parts:</p> <ul> <li><p>The chamois climb</p></li> <li><p>The passage of the “sabinette”</p></li> <li><p>The theft of the “perfo”</p></li> <li><p>The ledge of the buck and the traverse of the Italians.</p></li> </ul> <p>(A 90 metre traverse, being careful to descend slightly to the left and to avoid climbing too high. There is a cable to stop you going too high)</p> <ul> <li><p>The veterans wall</p></li> <li><p>Canyon and Oasis</p></li> </ul> <p>Hopefully, the names will become understandable once you have done the route!</p> <h2>Descent:</h2> <p>Continue along the (now not so) faint track (Canyon and Oasis) to the “Buvette des Mottets”, refreshments available. From here follow the path direction Chamonix, and after about 20 minutes take the signposted turn off on the right, which brings you back to Le Bois. (1h)</p> <p>Good practice in moving quickly while roped together. If you decide to pitch it, be prepared to bivouac! The route combines walking and climbing and so gives good experience in moving safely on easy ground. The route is equipped with bolts, though not necessarily at the belays. However, depending on the level of the party, take some slings for the belays and for runners using trees/bushes.</p>

buvette des mottets

verte et drus

Via Corda Alpina

mur des vétérans

la verte est restée cachée

classique.... mais beau

Rocher des Mottets (Chamonix) - Via Corda Alpina

Via Corda Alpina - Sur les sentes des chamois

User

Les Mottets

Voie Câline

A weird concept of a route, involving much "pulling" on bolts in the initial stages, followed by a long traversing section, to finally finish up the last two pitches of an established route.

## Access

Start from the Buvette du Rocher des Mottets. This can be reached by marked footpaths, either from Chamonix or Le Bois. It can also be reached by descending the marked footpath from Montenvers. However, the best way is to climb one of the three Via Cordas, (Alpina, Caline, Princesse,) from Le Bois directly to the buvette.

## Approach

### 30mins

The route takes the skyline rock spur, some of which is visible from the buvette and whose side facing the buvette is nearly always wet, (strange fountains coming out of the rock.) From the buvette, follow the path which is the winter access path from the glacier for the skiers returning from the Vallee Blanche. The path deteriorates and some bushwacking is required to reach a point overlooking the glacier near a very large, unstable boulder. From here you should be able to see a large tepee shaped boulder with a small cairn on top near the smooth slabs just above the base of the spur. Make your way as best as possible to this until you see the first bolt.

## Route

### 3h00

| Pitch | Description |
| ----- | ----------- |
| L1 | A short pitch to get established on the rock. The slabs look/are at an easy angle but mostly holdless and very poor friction. Deceptive. |
| L2 | The bolts are very close together and it becomes obvious why. Another short pitch recommended. |
| L3 | The bolts are even closer together! Again recommended to keep the pitch short. |
| L4 | After a short section finally you reach a decent handhold, then trend left to a fixed bit of rope, which allows you to traverse left across a watercourse. |
| L5 | Directly upwards to reach easy slabs, then before they steepen again go leftwards to a bolt just above some bushes. |
| L6 | Almost horizontal traverse pitch, with one bit of downclimbing, fixed rope and 2 bolts. |
| L7 | Rising diagonally leftwards. |
| L8-10 | Continue traversing leftwards to join the belay at the top of pitch 5 on Josiane. |
| L11,5c | Pitch 6 of Josiane. |
| L12,5b | Pitch 7 of Josiane. |

## Descent

From the top of the route follow the climbers path, behind the geodiesic post, to reach the main path descending from Montenvers to the Buvette de Mottets. From here, either go upwards to catch the train (and crowds) at Montenvers or descend to Le Bois/Chamonix via the buvette.

If started from Le Bois by first climbing one of the Via Cordas you end up doing over 30 pitches and over 800m height gain. Many of the belays are on single bolts. As the bolts are often close together, it is usually possible to climb up and clip the next bolt above.  
The route goes at 5b/c and A0. No idea what the free grade would be though the original grading claimed 5b/c **or** A0! After Pitch 4 the climbing is no harder than 4b/c, except for the last two pitches of Josiane.  
Great position, away from the crowds, illogical but lots of fun in its own way.

<p>A weird concept of a route, involving much &#8220;pulling&#8221; on bolts in the initial stages, followed by a long traversing section, to finally finish up the last two pitches of an established route.</p> <h2>Access</h2> <p>Start from the Buvette du Rocher des Mottets. This can be reached by marked footpaths , either from Chamonix or Le Bois. It can also be reached by descending the marked footpath from Montenvers. However, the best way is to climb one of the three Via Cordas, (Alpina, Caline, Princesse,) from Le Bois directly to the buvette.</p> <h2>Approach # 30mins.</h2> <p>The route takes the skyline rock spur , some of which is visible from the buvette and whose side facing the buvette is nearly always wet, (strange fountains coming out of the rock.) From the buvette, follow the path which is the winter access path from the glacier for the skiers returning from the Vallee Blanche. The path deteriorates and some bushwacking is required to reach a point overlooking the glacier near a very large, unstable boulder. From here you should be able to see a large tepee shaped boulder with a small cairn on top near the smooth slabs just above the base of the spur. Make your way as best as possible to this until you see the first bolt.</p> <h2>Route #3h00</h2> <p>L# | A short pitch to get established on the rock. The slabs look/are at an easy angle but mostly holdless and very poor friction. Deceptive. L# | The bolts are very close together and it becomes obvious why. Another short pitch recommended. L# | The bolts are even closer together! Again recommended to keep the pitch short. L# | After a short section finally you reach a decent handhold, then trend left to a fixed bit of rope, which allows you to traverse left across a watercourse. L# | Directly upwards to reach easy slabs, then before they steepen again go leftwards to a bolt just above some bushes. L# | Almost horizontal traverse pitch, with one bit of downclimbing, fixed rope and 2 bolts. L# | Rising diagonally leftwards. L#8-10 | Continue traversing leftwards to join the belay at the top of pitch 5 on Josiane L# | Pitch 6 of Josiane (5c) L# | Pitch 7 of Josiane (5b)</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>From the top of the route follow the climbers path, behind the geodiesic post, to reach the main path descending from Montenvers to the Buvette de Mottets. From here, either go upwards to catch the train (and crowds) at Montenvers or descend to Le Bois/Chamonix via the buvette.</p> <p>If started from Le Bois by first climbing one of the Via Cordas you end up doing over 30 pitches and over 800m height gain. Many of the belays are on single bolts. As the bolts are often close together, it is usually possible to climb up an clip the next bolt above. The route goes at 5b/c and A0. No idea what the free grade would be though the original grading claimed 5b/c <strong>or</strong> A0! After Pitch 4 the climbing is no harder than 4b/c, except for the last two pitches of Josiane. Great position, away from the crowds, illogical but lots of fun in its own way.</p>

Rocher des Mottets (Chamonix) - Quand Ali Sonne

La Pierre d’Orthaz

Situated above the village of “Les Bois”, the latest of three “Via Cordatas”, set up to the right of Voie Caline, on the slabby rocks of Mottets (north facing).

### Approach
35 mins

From the heliport in Les Bois cross the river Arveyron (bridge) and take any of the mountain bike trails, (except the “Montee de Pepe). These all ascend to a signpost “sommet de la norvege”. (Start of the Via Corda Alpina). Follow the path to the right around three hairpins, to a cairn and a dead tree in the form of a hockey stick, (also a name plate on the rock). If you get to a sign post “Voie Caline” you have gone too far.

### Route
The route consists of 19 pitches with an average length of 25 metres, well equipped with bolts and easy to follow, (either bolts or cairns). At one point you will see the bolts of Voie Caline over to the left. Princesse finishes at an obvious rust coloured dome. There are some pitches of 4 and the penultimate pitch is 4c. However, the climbing is never sustained.

### Descent
1h

From the last belay, follow faint tracks and cairns to the “Buvette des Mottets”, refreshments available. From here follow the path back towards Chamonix, and after about 20 minutes take the sign-posted turn off on the right, which brings you back to Les Bois.

* An enjoyable outing, technically slightly harder than the Via Alpina and Voie Caline.
* Beware of the pine needles!

<p>Situated above the village of “Les Bois”, the latest of three “Via Cordatas”, set up to the right of Voie Caline, on the slabby rocks of Mottets (north facing).</p> <h2>Approach # 35 mins</h2> <p>From the heliport in Les Bois cross the river Arveyron (bridge) and take any of the mountain bike trails, (except the “Montee de Pepe). These all ascend to a signpost “sommet de la norvege”. (Start of the Via Corda Alpina). Follow the path to the right around three hairpins, to a cairn and a dead tree in the form of a hockey stick, (also a name plate on the rock.). If you get to a sign post “Voie Caline” you have gone too far.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>The route consists of 19 pitches with an average length of 25 metres, well equipped with bolts and easy to follow, (either bolts or cairns.) At one point you will see the bolts of Voie Caline over to the left Princesse finishes at an obvious rust coloured dome. There are some pitches of 4 and the penultimate pitch is 4c. However. the climbing is never sustained.</p> <h2>Descent # 1h</h2> <p>From the last belay, follow faint tracks and cairns to the “Buvette des Mottets”, refreshments available. From here follow the path back towards Chamonix, and after about 20 minutes take the sign-posted turn off on the right, which brings you back to Les Bois.</p> <ul> <li>An enjoyable outing, technically slightly harder than the Via Alpina and Voie Caline.</li> <li>Beware of the pine needles!</li> </ul>

Rocher des Mottets (Chamonix) - Princesse

Probably the best route of its grade in this section

### Approach

15mins

From the Montenvers station go to the ladders, descend the first long ladder and then two short ladders. Traverse left (with your back to the glacier) on the higher (equipped) path to just beyond the top of the next ladder and before a corner with fixed ropes. There are three lines of bolts, Buddha-bar takes the middle one which trends to the left before going straight up to join an obvious quartz vein after the angle eases. (The easier, left-hand line reaches the quartz vein much lower down.)

### Route

| Pitch     | Description                                                                |
| --------- | -------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| L1,5c,45m | The slab becomes steeper, but holds and little ledges keep appearing.      |
| L2,6a,40m | An easy angled slab then good climbing to a ledge and belay.               |
| L3,5b,25m | Easier climbing to the top.                                                |

### Descent

Abseil back down the route

<p>Probably the best route of its grade in this section</p> <h2>Approach # 15mins</h2> <p>From the Montenvers station go to the ladders, descend the first long ladder and then two short ladders. Traverse left (with your back to the glacier) on the higher (equipped) path to just beyond the top of the next ladder and before a corner with fixed ropes. There are three lines of bolts, Buddha-bar takes the middle one which trends to the left before going straight up to join an obvious quartz vein after the angle eases. (The easier, left hand line reaches the quartz vein much lower down.)</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>L# | 5c | 45m | The slab becomes steeper, but holds and little ledges keep appearing. L# | 6a | 40m| An easy angled slab then good climbing to a ledge and belay. L# | 5b | 25m | Easier climbing to the top.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Abseil back down the route</p>

Montenvers - Buddha-bar

Buvette du Rocher des Mottets

<p>Refuge situé dans la vallée des Glaciers, sur l&#8217;itinéraire du Tour du Mont Blanc. Au pied du col de la Seigne et de l&#8217;aiguille des Glaciers http://www.lesmottets.com/tour-du-mont-blanc/</p> <p>Un site pour l&#8217;organisation de son Tour du Mont Blanc http://www.montourdumontblanc.com/fr/index.aspx</p>

Refuge des Mottets

<h2>Ski de randonnée</h2> <h3>Alpes</h3> <h4>Mont Blanc</h4> <p>Mont Blanc</p> <h4>Écrins</h4> <h4>Vanoise</h4> <h4>Vercors</h4> <p>Vercors</p> <h4>Chartreuse</h4> <p>La Chartreuse est un massif bien arrosé qui lui assure un bon enneigement malgré son altitude modeste (Chamechaude étant son point culminant (2082m). La première partie est généralement boisée alors que les sommets sont souvent défendus par de grandes barres rocheuses qui donne a ce massif un caractère qui lui est propre.</p> <h3>Pyrénées</h3> <h2>Alpinisme</h2> <h3>Alpes</h3> <h4>Chamonix - Mont Blanc</h4> <h4>Écrins</h4> <h4>Vanoise</h4> <h3>Pyrénées</h3> <h2>Escalade</h2> <h3>Verdon</h3> <h3>Hautes Alpes</h3> <ul> <li>Céuse</li> <li>Orpierre</li> </ul>

France

<p>[toc 2 right] <em>Le massif du Mont-Blanc est un massif montagneux des Alpes franco-italiennes, où se dresse le mont Blanc, plus haut sommet d&#8217;Europe occidentale qui culmine à 4&#160;810,06&#160;m. Il est traversé par le tunnel du Mont-Blanc, entre Chamonix dans la vallée de l&#8217;Arve et Courmayeur dans la vallée d&#8217;Aoste.</em></p> <h2>Présentation</h2> <h3>Situation</h3> <p>Ce massif est relativement restreint en superficie puisqu&#8217;il s&#8217;étend sur seulement 400&#160;km[sup]2[/sup] environ, mais il empiète sur trois pays&#160;: il est situé en grande partie sur le département français de la Haute-Savoie, mais aussi de la Savoie, sur la Vallée d&#8217;Aoste italienne et le canton du Valais suisse.</p> <p>Il est très homogène, c&#8217;est-à-dire que peu de vallées entrecoupent le relief, si ce n&#8217;est le Val Veny en amont de Courmayeur, côté italien, qui isole quelque peu le sommet de Lancebranlette. En effet, les glaciers occupent les dépressions jusque bas dans les vallées, et les torrents qu&#8217;ils alimentent ne suffisent pas à éroder le massif.</p> <p>On peut diviser le massif en plusieurs zones&#160;:</p> <ul> <li>les dômes de Miage]] et [[summits/176147|Tré-la-Tête&#160;;</li> <li>le groupe central, qui comprend le sommet du mont Blanc lui-même&#160;;</li> <li>l&#8217;aiguille Verte]], les [[summits/38628|Droites&#160;;</li> <li>les aiguilles de Chamonix, depuis l&#8217;aiguille du Midi jusqu&#8217;à l&#8217;aiguille des Grands Charmoz&#160;;</li> <li>les Grandes Jorasses&#160;;</li> <li>le groupe de l&#8217;aiguille d&#8217;Argentière.</li> </ul> <p>Les vallées principales qui l&#8217;entourent sont reliées par le tunnel du mont Blanc et le col du Petit-Saint-Bernard (entre l&#8217;Italie et la France) et le col des Montets via Vallorcine (entre la France et la Suisse).</p> <p>Il est entouré des aiguilles Rouges]] au nord-ouest (rive droite de l&#8217;Arve), du massif du [[areas/14404|Giffre]] au nord, des [[areas/14437|Alpes valaisannes]] à l&#8217;est, des [[areas/14424|Alpes grées]] au sud-est et du massif du [[areas/14400|Beaufortain au sud-ouest.</p> <h3>Géologie</h3> <p>Le massif du Mont-Blanc fait partie des massifs cristallins externes des Alpes. Il est essentiellement granitique, mais l&#8217;on y trouve également des affleurement de gneiss, selon cette répartition&#160;: - le cœur du massif (vallée Blanche) et l&#8217;est (glacier du Tour, glacier du Trient) sont dans le pluton granitique - la partie occidentale (sommet du mont Blanc lui-même, dôme du Goûter, le secteur de Tré-la-Tête) est constituée principalement de gneiss. Ce sont en fait d&#8217;anciennes roches hercyniennes reprises dans l&#8217;orogenèse alpine.</p> <h2>Le Massif</h2> <h3>Les différents Groupes</h3> <h4>Les dômes de Miage et Tré-la-Tête</h4> <p>Secteur plus sauvage, il abrite de belles courses d&#8217;arête&#160;: traversée des Dômes de Miage]] et [[routes/57924|traversée Tré la Tête - Dôme des Glaciers.</p> <h4>Groupe central&#160;: Mont Blanc</h4> <p>Partie du massif très courue, son accès est grandement facilité par le téléphérique de l&#8217;aiguille du Midi. En été, le col du Midi est le lieu de rencontre de tout les types d&#8217;alpinisme. C&#8217;est le lieu où se côtoie alpinisme difficile (Grand Pilier d&#8217;Angle]], Freney&#8230;) et facile ([[summits/37355/fr/mont-blanc#les-5-voies-normales|voie normale du Mon Blanc]], [[summits/39351|Pointe Lachenal]] et [[routes/53884|Arête des Cosmiques.</p> <h4>L&#8217;aiguille Verte, les Courtes</h4> <p>L&#8217;Aiguille Verte tient une place importante dans le massif tant elle attire l&#8217;œil depuis la vallée. Elle regorge de couloirs et arêtes réputées. Plus au Nord, ce sont les Droites et les Courtes dont la réputation des faces N n&#8217;est plus à faire. Leur face S accueille quant&#8217;à elle des itinéraires d&#8217;alpinisme plus classique.</p> <h4>Les aiguilles de Chamonix</h4> <p>Ce groupe de sommet va de l&#8217;aiguille du Midi jusqu&#8217;à l&#8217;aiguille des Grands Charmoz. C&#8217;est un endroit propice à de belles escalades modernes et anciennes.</p> <h4>Les Grandes Jorasses</h4> <p>Si on doit citer une face N du massif du Mont Blanc, ce sera celle-là. Une des plus réputée des Alpes.</p> <h4>L&#8217;aiguille d&#8217;Argentière et du Chardonnet</h4> <p>L&#8217;aiguille d&#8217;Argentière, tout comme celle du Chardonnet sont des petits massifs à eux tout seul&#160;; ils concentrent tout ce qu&#8217;on peut trouver en montagne&#160;: goulottes et courses glacières en versant N, traversée d&#8217;arête, escalade et ski de montagne. Assurément un beau coin.</p> <h2>Les activités de montagne</h2> <h3>Ski de randonnée</h3> <p>Le Mont-Blanc, de part sa grande surface glaciaire comporte plus d&#8217;itinéraires sérieux que n&#8217;importe quel autre massif français. C&#8217;est également un excellent massif pour la pente raide. En effet, les nombreuses remontés mécaniques permettent d&#8217;accéder facilement à de belles pentes.</p> <h3>Alpinisme</h3> <p>Chamonix est la Mecque mondialement connue de l&#8217;alpinisme.</p> <h4>Neige/Glace/Mixte</h4> <h5>Alpinisme classique</h5> <ul> <li>Mont blanc</li> </ul> <h5>Goulottes</h5> <p>Le massif du Mont-Blanc propose de nombreuses goulottes dont les principaux sommets sont&#160;:</p> <ul> <li>Aiguille du Chardonnet&#160;: belles goulottes de difficultés modérées</li> <li>Aiguille du Midi&#160;: goulottes variées facilement accessibles grâce au téléphérique</li> <li>Grandes Jorasses&#160;: goulottes engagées dans une face de légende</li> <li>Mont Blanc du Tacul&#160;: goulottes faciles d&#8217;accès mais fréquentés</li> <li>Triangle du Tacul&#160;: goulottes &#8220;école&#8221;</li> </ul> <h4>Rocher haute montagne</h4> <p>Le granite Chamoniard n&#8217;est plus a présenté et on peut citer quelques haut lieu de l&#8217;escalade Chamoniarde&#160;:</p> <ul> <li>Envers des Aiguilles</li> <li>Grand Capucin</li> </ul> <p>Malheureusement, le massif pâti de l&#8217;absence d&#8217;une mise à jour d&#8217;un topo rocheux exhaustif. On pourra trouver de nombreuses information à la maison de la montagne à Chamonix.</p> <h3>La cascade de glace</h3> <ul> <li>Cascades du glacier d&#8217;Argentière</li> <li>Cascades de Trient</li> </ul> <h3>La randonnée pédestre</h3> <p>Le massif du Mont-Blanc est avant tout un massif réservé à l&#8217;alpinisme. Cependant, il est possible pour les randonneurs de trouver de belle promenades qui permettrons de s&#8217;approcher de près ou de loin de ce monde de glace et de roc.</p> <h4>Tour du Mont-Blanc</h4> <p><em>A compléter</em></p> <h4>Ballades panoramiques</h4> <ul> <li>Lac Blanc</li> <li>Les aiguilles rouges</li> </ul> <h4>Rando au plus près des glaces</h4> <ul> <li>La jonction</li> <li>Balcons de la Mer de Glace</li> <li>Traversée Montenvers - Plan de l&#8217;Aiguille</li> </ul> <h2>Les différents topos</h2> <h3>Les beaux livres</h3> <ul> <li>100 plus belles, topo quelque peu démodé mais qui reste une référence.</li> <li>Sommets du Mont Blanc, un beau livre avec des courses de niveau F à D dans le massif du Mont Blanc et des Aiguilles Rouges.</li> </ul> <h3>Topos exhaustifs</h3> <ul> <li>Vallot (Labande) Tome 1]] et [[books/136810|Tome 2, guide de référence mais pas vraiment à jour (dernière édition en 1978)</li> <li>Topo Suisse CAS, topo exhaustif neige glace et mixte mais aussi escalade.</li> <li>Neige, Glace et Mixte Tome 1]] &amp; [[books/136808|Tome 2, un topo de référence sur le Massif du Mont Blanc.</li> </ul> <p>Il n&#8217;y a actuellement aucun topo d&#8217;escalade rocheuse à jour pour le massif.</p> <h3>Topo spécifiques</h3> <ul> <li>Envers des Aiguilles (Piola)</li> <li>Toponeige Mont Blanc</li> </ul>