E ridge - Punta Innominata - Mont-Blanc - Italy
Min / max altitude2590m / 3731m
Main facingSE
Route typeReturn the same way
Glacier gear required
GearCuerda de 60 m aconsejable, la alternativa 2 rápeles + destrepe para la bajada lado Brouillard es poco cómoda (calidad de la roca)
Source

Details

Approach

From the Monzino hut follow a faint path leading to the Châtelet glacier.

Route

Go onto the glacier and follow it towards an obvious snow cone below the face you can see of the Punta Innominata. Go up the cone, pass the bergschrund, (changes each year,) and climb a gully with some in-situ gear. The gully leads to some scree which is underneath an characteristic oval snow patch, (visible from the hut.)
Go up the scree keeping to right of the snow patch then turn to the right in the direction of a snow gully, which leads to a little col on the E ridge of the Innominata. Follow the ridge, either on its crest or on the Frêney side. When the ridge gets to some obvious pinnacles, traverse to the left, (on the S face,) to gain a point not far from the fore-summit From the fore-summit, reach the summit by following the crest of the ridge.

Descent

By the same route.

Alternative descent by the Brouillard Glacier. From the summit, continue on by down climbing for 30m, then make two abseils (40+20m) down to the Col du Freney. From the col, go down the Brouillard Glacier, keeping to the edge of the S ridge. Get onto the moraine of the Châtelet glacier at the foot of the S ridge. Attention: large open bergschunds and crevasses and often icy.

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