The ridge is in two parts: the first from the Monzino refuge to the Eccles bivouac, and the second from the Eccles bivouac to the summit of Mt Blanc. The first part can be avoided by going up the Brouillard glacier.

### Approach to the Monzino hut 2-3h

Start from Freney - Chalet du Miage, in the Val Veni (1590m), large parking near the river. Follow the well signposted path across the river, (bridges.) N.B. the IGN map shows that it is possible to start higher up. There are no longer bridges in place and can be difficult to cross the river.

Follow the path to the hut by a steep path which climbs 2 rock bands, and has cables etc.

### Route

#### 1st part of the ridge (The intégrale)

From the hut go up the scree to the shrinking Châtelet glacier which you climb for 100m to a low, rock band (1h.) Overcome this band and continue up steps, identifying a notable pinnacle on the SW ridge, which you reach by a corner crack (4b) and go around on the Châtelet side. Take the best line up the W face on suspect rock to the ridge, (4b, 2h30.) Climb the ridge to the summit of the l'Innominata (3750m, 1h30). Make three abseils to the Col de Frêney. Traverse the narrow crest then descend 30m onto the glacier plateau which you cross. Overcome the bergschrund and reach, by steep slopes, the Eccles bivouac (3850m, 2h).

#### To go directly to the Eccles Bivouac (direct variant)

From the hut go up the scree to the shrinking Châtelet glacier. Go off to the left to reach the Brouillard glacier. Go up this to the col de Freney (careful numerous and impressive crevasses.) From the col climb up towards the Pointe Eccles by a steep and sustained, snow slope, (often ice) until a level area. Go obliquely to the left on mixed ground to reach the bivouac.

#### 2nd part of the ridge

*From the Eccles bivouacs to the Col Eccles* (*2 solutions*.)

1) In good snow conditions, find the abseil point to go down a slope 50m behind the old bivouac, (bergschrund) to get to the Brouillard glacier, which you climb up to the Col Eccles (45°). (1h30, more if conditions are bad!)

2) Or climb the SW ridge towards the Pointe Eccles (from the bivouac go up towards a large, wooden stick on the ridge.) Climb the ridge until a little step under the Point. You can go around the step to the left (Brouillard side, short abseil) or climb a crack on the right (Freney side). Both lead to Pointe Eccles (4050m, 4b), then an abseil down to the snow ridge of the Col Eccles. (2h.)

Keep to the crest of the ridge until the first steep step, which you overcome by 3-4 sustained pitches, (an obvious 20m corner with a move of 5b to exit.) Go under a large boulder then follow the crest of the spur, (4b, 3b, 2h). You reach a little snow ridge (sometimes just a blade of snow) below an immense and smooth pinnacle of, in places, loose rock. Go around the pinnacle to the left and climb a steep step in two short pitches, (3b-4b, loose) towards the large couloir of snow/ice between the Innominata and a secondary ridge to the left. Cross it (quickly, stonefall danger) to the left at 4250m and reach a rock incline, (1h30). Climb this incline, (large boulders,) and go obliquely to the left until a narrow snow/ice gully/ramp, (at the foot of an overhanging red tower) which starts to the left and leads to the Pointe Louis Amédée ridge. Climb this ridge to its top, (4450m, 3b-4b, 2h30). From here, climb the ice/mixed slopes to the Pointe (4650m, 50°). Finally, follow the rocky ridge, then snowy and again rocky, (climb a large rocky step on the right.) One can “tick” the Mont Blanc de Courmayeur by an obvious contour above the SW face (35°, ice or snow, careful of windslab) and at last the summit of Mont Blanc (2h).

### Descent

- Either the Bosses-Gouter ridge to Les Houches,
- Or the 3 Monts to the Aig du Midi
- Or the normal route on the Italian side, the Aiguilles Grises, Gonella hut. (The glacier can be very difficult, especially at the end of the season.) Then back to the parking!

High mountain route, faces S: The sun hits the face early and causes stonefall. No real crux, the difficulties are homogeneous and sustained. Time needed depends mainly on the conditions, (mixed terrain mostly.) A long, beautiful, high altitude route. The rock is sometimes loose.

*Return* Train from Nid d'Aigle to Bellevue, cable car to Les Houches, bus to Chamonix SNCF railway station, then another bus to Courmayeur (10 Euros), and finally a bus to Val Veny.

<h2>Approach # to the Monzino hut 2-3h</h2> <p>Start from Freney - Chalet du Miage, in the Val Veni (1590m), large parking near the river. Follow the well signposted path across the river, (bridges.) N.B. the IGN map shows that it is possible to start higher up. There are no longer bridges in place and can be difficult to cross the river.</p> <p>Follow the path to the hut by a steep path which climbs 2 rock bands, and has cables etc.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <h3>1st part of the ridge # (The intégrale)</h3> <p>From the hut go up the scree to the shrinking Châtelet glacier which you climb for 100m to a low, rock band (1h.) Overcome this band and continue up steps, identifying a notable pinnacle on the SW ridge, which you reach by a corner crack (4b) and go around on the Châtelet side. Take the best line up the W face on suspect rock to the ridge, (4b, 2h30.) Climb the ridge to the summit of the l&#8217;Innominata (3750m, 1h30). Make three abseils to the Col de Frêney. Traverse the narrow crest then descend 30m onto the glacier plateau which you cross. Overcome the bergschrund and reach, by steep slopes, the Eccles bivouac (3850m, 2h).</p> <h3>To go directly to the Eccles Bivouac # (direct variant)</h3> <p>From the hut go up the scree to the shrinking Châtelet glacier. Go off to the left to reach the Brouillard glacier. Go up this to the col de Freney (careful numerous and impressive crevasses.) From the col climb up towards the Pointe Eccles by a steep and sustained, snow slope, (often ice) until a level area. Go obliquely to the left on mixed ground to reach the bivouac.</p> <h3>2nd part of the ridge</h3> <p><em>From the Eccles bivouacs to the Col Eccles</em> (<em>2 solutions</em>.) 1) In good snow conditions, find the abseil point to go down a slope 50m behind the old bivouac, (bergschrund) to get to the Brouillard glacier, which you climb up to the Col Eccles (45°). (1h30, more if conditions are bad!) 2) Or climb the SW ridge towards the Pointe Eccles (from the bivouac go up towards a large, wooden stick on the ridge.) Climb the ridge until a little step under the Point. You can go around the step to the left (Brouillard side, short abseil) or climb a crack on the right (Freney side). Both lead to Pointe Eccles (4050m, 4b), then an abseil down to the snow ridge of the Col Eccles. (2h.)</p> <p>Keep to the crest of the ridge until the first steep step, which you overcome by 3-4 sustained pitches, (an obvious 20m corner with a move of 5b to exit.) Go under a large boulder then follow the crest of the spur, (4b, 3b, 2h). You reach a little snow ridge (sometimes just a blade of snow) below an immense and smooth pinnacle of, in places, loose rock. Go around the pinnacle to the left and climb a steep step in two short pitches, (3b-4b, loose) towards the large couloir of snow/ice between the Innominata and a secondary ridge to the left. Cross it (quickly, stonefall danger) to the left at 4250m and reach a rock incline, (1h30). Climb this incline, (large boulders,) and go obliquely to the left until a narrow snow/ice gully/ramp, (at the foot of an overhanging red tower) which starts to the left and leads to the Pointe Louis Amédée ridge. Climb this ridge to its top, (4450m, 3b-4b, 2h30). From here, climb the ice/mixed slopes to the Pointe (4650m, 50°). Finally, follow the rocky ridge, then snowy and again rocky, (climb a large rocky step on the right.) One can “tick” the Mont Blanc de Courmayeur by an obvious contour above the SW face (35°, ice or snow, careful of windslab) and at last the summit of Mont Blanc (2h).</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <ul> <li>Either the Bosses-Gouter ridge to Les Houches,</li> <li>Or the 3 Monts to the Aig du Midi</li> <li>Or the normal route on the Italian side , the Aiguilles Grises, Gonella hut. (The glacier can be very difficult, especially at the end of the season.) Then back to the parking!</li> </ul>

Il Monte Bianco 4807 m versante S dalla Testa del Rutor 3486 m

camptocamp

[Concours Photo Sophie 2023] - Action - Sur les Arêtes de l'Innominata

Mont Blanc, arête de l'Innominata (partie haute)

Innominata ridge

Camptocamp

<p>[toc]</p> <h2>Overview</h2> <h3>History</h3> <p>The first ascent was made on the 8th of August 1786 by Dc. Michel Paccard and Jacques Balmat, inspired by Horace-Bénédicte de Saussure who offered a reward for the first to reach the top. <a href="http://www.litteratureaudio.com/livre-audio-gratuit-mp3/horace-benedict-de-saussure-voyage-a-la-cime-du-mont-blanc.html">You can listen to the story of Horace-Bénédicte de Saussure’s ascent (in French)</a>&#8230; for those long nights in the hut!</p> <h3>The highest point in the Alps</h3> <p>The Mont Blanc rises in the heart of the Mont-Blanc massif and is the highest point in the Alps (4810,90 meters above sea level according to <a href="http://www.lemonde.fr/web/recherche_breve/1,13-0,37-1008958,0.html">the latest measurement in September 2007</a>).</p> <h3>Who does the Mont Blanc belong to?</h3> <p>The summit is located on the border between the French department of Haute Savoie and the Aosta Valley of Italy. France considers the summit as entirely French whereas Italy considers that it straddles the border.</p> <p>In a recent map published jointly by the French IGN and the Italian IGM (1:25&#160;000), the border is represented as a line of widely separated little crosses, that dissapear close to the summit (see <a href="http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Histoire_de_la_fronti%C3%A8re_sur_le_mont_Blanc"> wikipedia </a>)</p> <h2>Ascent routes</h2> <h3>The 5 “normal routes”</h3> <h4>Arête des Bosses # The most popular route</h4> <ul> <li>Bosses ridge</li> </ul> <h4>The “3 Monts” # The <em>modern</em> route</h4> <ul> <li><em>Via</em> the 3 Monts, up and back</li> <li>3 Monts&#160;&#187; N face traverse</li> <li>3 Monts&#160;&#187; Bosses ridge traverse</li> </ul> <h4>The Italian normal route # Also known as the Pope’s route or the route of the Aiguilles Grises</h4> <ul> <li>Aiguilles Grises route</li> </ul> <h4>Par les Grand Mulets # The historical route, mainly travelled on skis</h4> <ul> <li><em>via</em> the Grands Mulets</li> <li>N face and N ridge of the Dôme</li> </ul> <h4>Via the Miage - Bionnasay - Mont Blanc traveres # A longer and more technical route, but also the wildest</h4> <ul> <li>Dômes de Miage - Aiguille de Bionnassay - Mont Blanc traverse</li> </ul> <h3>Alternative routes</h3> <p><em>A list of routes that lead to the summit of Mont Blanc far from the crowds of the normal routes (difficulty is generally between AD and D)</em></p> <h4>Brenva</h4> <p>Brenva spur Peuterey ridge, from the Blanche de Peuterey</p> <h4>Peuterey - Freney - Brouillard</h4> <p>Innominata ridge (with integral and direct versions) Intégrale de Peuterey <em>via</em> the E ridge of the Noire de Peuterey</p> <h4>Miage</h4> <p>Central buttress of Miage Left buttress of Miage (Jaccoux-Domenech route) Tournette spur W slope – Benedetti]] and [[routes/49571|Saudan couloir, steep skiing routes.</p> <h3>&#8220;Grand Alpinisme&#8221;</h3> <p><em>List of complex routes leading to the summit of Mont Blanc (grades generally above TD).</em></p> <h4>Brenva</h4> <p>Grand Pilier d&#8217;Angle (Dufour-Frehel) Grand Pilier d&#8217;Angle (Cecchinel-Nominè/Boivin-Vallençant)</p> <h4>Peuterey - Freney - Brouillard</h4> <p>Central pilar of Freney (classic route) Integral Peuterey ridge</p> <h3>Descent routes</h3> <p>Various options are possible:</p> <ul> <li><em>via</em> 3 Monts Blancs to the Aiguille du Midi</li> <li><em>via</em> the Bosses ridge and the Gouter hut</li> <li><em>via</em> the Bosses ridge and the Grands Mulets (hazardous because of serac fall)</li> <li><em>via</em> the Aiguilles Grises (to the Italian side)</li> </ul>

Mont Blanc

## Approach

From the Monzino hut follow a faint path leading to the Châtelet glacier.

## Route

Go onto the glacier and follow it towards an obvious snow cone below the face you can see of the Punta Innominata. Go up the cone, pass the bergschrund, (changes each year,) and climb a gully with some in-situ gear. The gully leads to some scree which is underneath a characteristic oval snow patch, (visible from the hut.) Go up the scree keeping to the right of the snow patch then turn to the right in the direction of a snow gully, which leads to a little col on the E ridge of the Innominata. Follow the ridge, either on its crest or on the Frêney side. When the ridge gets to some obvious pinnacles, traverse to the left, (on the S face,) to gain a point not far from the fore-summit. From the fore-summit, reach the summit by following the crest of the ridge.

## Descent

By the same route.

*Alternative descent by the Brouillard Glacier.*
From the summit, continue on by down climbing for 30m, then make two abseils (40+20m) down to the Col du Freney. From the col, go down the Brouillard Glacier, keeping to the edge of the S ridge. Get onto the moraine of the Châtelet glacier at the foot of the S ridge. Attention: large open bergschunds and crevasses and often icy.

- When combined with the descent of the Brouillard the outing becomes more complete, but a little more difficult.

<h2>Approach</h2> <p>From the Monzino hut follow a faint path leading to the Châtelet glacier.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>Go onto the glacier and follow it towards an obvious snow cone below the face you can see of the Punta Innominata. Go up the cone, pass the bergschrund, (changes each year,) and climb a gully with some in-situ gear. The gully leads to some scree which is underneath an characteristic oval snow patch, (visible from the hut.)<br /> Go up the scree keeping to right of the snow patch then turn to the right in the direction of a snow gully, which leads to a little col on the E ridge of the Innominata. Follow the ridge, either on its crest or on the Frêney side. When the ridge gets to some obvious pinnacles, traverse to the left, (on the S face,) to gain a point not far from the fore-summit From the fore-summit, reach the summit by following the crest of the ridge.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>By the same route.</p> <p><em>Alternative descent by the Brouillard Glacier.</em> From the summit, continue on by down climbing for 30m, then make two abseils (40+20m) down to the Col du Freney. From the col, go down the Brouillard Glacier, keeping to the edge of the S ridge. Get onto the moraine of the Châtelet glacier at the foot of the S ridge. Attention: large open bergschunds and crevasses and often icy.</p>

La montée au col de l'Innominata (topo du refuge Monzino)

Première longueur, à gauche juste avant le col de l'Innominata.

Sommet

E ridge

<h2>Historique</h2> <ul> <li>1<sup>re</sup> ascension&#160;: 23 juillet 1872 - Agostino Durazzo, Julien Grange, Séraphin Henry. Par le versant W.</li> <li>2<sup>e</sup> ascension&#160;: 21 juillet 1880 - Martino Baretti, Séraphin Henry, Jean-Joseph Maquignaz, Auguste Sibille.</li> <li>Arête SE&#160;: 1<sup>re</sup> ascension&#160;: 28 août 1895 - Laurent Croux, Evan Mackenzie, César Ollier. Descente versant W.</li> </ul> <h2>Bibliographie</h2> <ul> <li><em>Un&#8217;esplorazione</em> par A. Durazzo, <a href="http://www.tecadigitale.cai.it/periodici/PDF/Bollettino/Bollettino%20del%20Club%20Alpino%20Italiano_1872-1873_20.pdf#page=218"><em>Bollettino del Club Alpino Italiano</em>, 1873, n<sup>o</sup>20, p.291-294</a>&#160;: récit de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension (en italien).</li> <li><em>Ascensoni nel gruppo del Monte Bianco - Punta Innominata</em> par M. Baretti, <a href="http://www.tecadigitale.cai.it/periodici/PDF/Bollettino/Bollettino%20del%20Club%20Alpino%20Italiano_1880_44.pdf#page=95"><em>Bollettino CAI</em>, vol. 14, 1880, n<sup>o</sup>44, p.667</a>&#160;: mention de la 2<sup>e</sup> ascension (en italien).</li> <li><em>Aiguille Joseph Croux</em> par M. Mazzuchi, <a href="https://tecadigitale.cai.it/periodici/PDF/Rivista%20mensile/CAI_Rivista%20mensile%20del%20CAI_019_012_1900.pdf#page=16"><em>Rivista Mensile</em> CAI, vol. 19, 1900, n<sup>o</sup>12 p. 426</a>&#160;: mention de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension de l’arête SE (en italien).</li> </ul>

Punta Innominata

### Tiri
| Lunghezza | Descrizione |
| --------- | ----------- |
| L1,II,ghiacciaio dello Chatelet | Dal rifugio Monzino si prende una traccia di sentiero (ometti) che porta al ghiacciaio dello Chatelet. Si risale il ghiacciaio puntando al Colle dell'Innominata. Arrivati sulla verticale del colle, si supera un primo risalto roccioso leggermente a destra su placche (II, verglas). Raggiunto il nevaio superiore lo si percorre fino al camino-colatoio che scende direttamente dal colle dell'Innominata. Si risale questo camino fino a un salto verticale spesso bagnato che si supera direttamente o un pò a destra (III-IV delicato) fino a uno spit di calata. Da qui senza difficoltà fino al colle. Dal colle parte la cresta vera e propria: a sinistra della targa di Oggioni, si sale una fessura appoggiata di circa 30m (III) per raggiungere il filo di cresta. Passare cul versante S su cenge per evitare tre gendarmi di roccia compatta, finiti i gendarmi risalire in cresta per un colatoio di rocce levigate (II - III). Da questo punto si cammina sul filo di cresta fino alla sommità di un caratteristico dosso di rocce rosse visibile fin dal rifugio. Presso la sommità di questo dosso parte il canale della via normale (itinerario descritto come Arête E)- ometto. Dal dosso si segue la cresta per lo stesso itinerario della via normale: stando cul filo o poco a destra si superano vari risalti aerei fino a dei caratteristici gendarmi poco sotto l'anticima. Con una lunghezza esposta su buone prese si traversano i gendarmi versante SE per poi raggiungere facilmente l'anticima. Dall'anticima si scende leggermente sul filo di cresta per poi risalire alla cima vera e propria su terreno misto (placche lisce e piccoli couloir). Dalla cima si può scendere al ghiacciaio del Brouillard (doppie) oppure per lo stesso itinerario fino al dosso di rocce rotte. Da lì si può prendere il canale della via normale (rocce instabili a fine stagione - una doppia da 50m per raggiungere il ghiacciaio) o proseguire per la stessa via di salita fino allo Chatelet (una sola doppia attrezzata sotto il colle dell'Innominata). |

<p>Dal rifugio Monzino si prende una traccia di sentiero (ometti) che porta al ghiacciaio dello Chatelet. Si risale il ghiacciaio puntando al Colle dell&#8217;Innominata. Arrivati sulla verticale del colle, si supera un primo risalto roccioso leggermente a destra su placche (II, verglas). Raggiunto il nevaio superiore lo si percorre fino al camino-colatoio che scende direttamente dal colle dell&#8217;Innominata. Si risale questo camino fino a un salto verticale spesso bagnato che si supera direttamente o un pò a destra (III-IV delicato) fino a uno spit di calata. Da qui senza difficoltà fino al colle. Dal colle parte la cresta vera e propria: a sinistra della targa di Oggioni, si sale una fessura appoggiata di circa 30m (III) per raggiungere il filo di cresta. Passare cul versante S su cenge per evitare tre gendarmi di roccia compatta, finiti i gendarmi risalire in cresta per un colatoio di rocce levigate (II - III). Da questo punto si cammina sul filo di cresta fino alla sommità di un caratteristico dosso di rocce rosse visibile fin dal rifugio. Presso la sommità di questo dosso parte il canale della via normale (itinerario descritto come Arête E)- ometto. Dal dosso si segue la cresta per lo stesso itinerario della via normale: stando cul filo o poco a destra si superano vari risalti aerei fino a dei caratteristici gendarmi poco sotto l&#8217;anticima. Con una lunghezza esposta su buone prese si traversano i gendarmi versante SE per poi raggiungere facilmente l&#8217;anticima. Dall&#8217;anticima si scende leggermente sul filo di cresta per poi risalire alla cima vera e propria su terreno misto (placche lisce e piccoli couloir). Dalla cima si può scendere al ghiacciaio del Brouillard (doppie) oppure per lo stesso itinerario fino al dosso di rocce rotte. Da lì si può prendere il canale della via normale (rocce instabili a fine stagione - una doppia da 50m per raggiungere il ghiacciaio) o proseguire per la stessa via di salita fino allo Chatelet(una sola doppia attrezzata sotto il colle dell&#8217;Innominata).</p>

Cresta SE dal Colle dell'Innominata

Italy

<p>[toc 2 right] <em>Le massif du Mont-Blanc est un massif montagneux des Alpes franco-italiennes, où se dresse le mont Blanc, plus haut sommet d&#8217;Europe occidentale qui culmine à 4&#160;810,06&#160;m. Il est traversé par le tunnel du Mont-Blanc, entre Chamonix dans la vallée de l&#8217;Arve et Courmayeur dans la vallée d&#8217;Aoste.</em></p> <h2>Présentation</h2> <h3>Situation</h3> <p>Ce massif est relativement restreint en superficie puisqu&#8217;il s&#8217;étend sur seulement 400&#160;km[sup]2[/sup] environ, mais il empiète sur trois pays&#160;: il est situé en grande partie sur le département français de la Haute-Savoie, mais aussi de la Savoie, sur la Vallée d&#8217;Aoste italienne et le canton du Valais suisse.</p> <p>Il est très homogène, c&#8217;est-à-dire que peu de vallées entrecoupent le relief, si ce n&#8217;est le Val Veny en amont de Courmayeur, côté italien, qui isole quelque peu le sommet de Lancebranlette. En effet, les glaciers occupent les dépressions jusque bas dans les vallées, et les torrents qu&#8217;ils alimentent ne suffisent pas à éroder le massif.</p> <p>On peut diviser le massif en plusieurs zones&#160;:</p> <ul> <li>les dômes de Miage]] et [[summits/176147|Tré-la-Tête&#160;;</li> <li>le groupe central, qui comprend le sommet du mont Blanc lui-même&#160;;</li> <li>l&#8217;aiguille Verte]], les [[summits/38628|Droites&#160;;</li> <li>les aiguilles de Chamonix, depuis l&#8217;aiguille du Midi jusqu&#8217;à l&#8217;aiguille des Grands Charmoz&#160;;</li> <li>les Grandes Jorasses&#160;;</li> <li>le groupe de l&#8217;aiguille d&#8217;Argentière.</li> </ul> <p>Les vallées principales qui l&#8217;entourent sont reliées par le tunnel du mont Blanc et le col du Petit-Saint-Bernard (entre l&#8217;Italie et la France) et le col des Montets via Vallorcine (entre la France et la Suisse).</p> <p>Il est entouré des aiguilles Rouges]] au nord-ouest (rive droite de l&#8217;Arve), du massif du [[areas/14404|Giffre]] au nord, des [[areas/14437|Alpes valaisannes]] à l&#8217;est, des [[areas/14424|Alpes grées]] au sud-est et du massif du [[areas/14400|Beaufortain au sud-ouest.</p> <h3>Géologie</h3> <p>Le massif du Mont-Blanc fait partie des massifs cristallins externes des Alpes. Il est essentiellement granitique, mais l&#8217;on y trouve également des affleurement de gneiss, selon cette répartition&#160;: - le cœur du massif (vallée Blanche) et l&#8217;est (glacier du Tour, glacier du Trient) sont dans le pluton granitique - la partie occidentale (sommet du mont Blanc lui-même, dôme du Goûter, le secteur de Tré-la-Tête) est constituée principalement de gneiss. Ce sont en fait d&#8217;anciennes roches hercyniennes reprises dans l&#8217;orogenèse alpine.</p> <h2>Le Massif</h2> <h3>Les différents Groupes</h3> <h4>Les dômes de Miage et Tré-la-Tête</h4> <p>Secteur plus sauvage, il abrite de belles courses d&#8217;arête&#160;: traversée des Dômes de Miage]] et [[routes/57924|traversée Tré la Tête - Dôme des Glaciers.</p> <h4>Groupe central&#160;: Mont Blanc</h4> <p>Partie du massif très courue, son accès est grandement facilité par le téléphérique de l&#8217;aiguille du Midi. En été, le col du Midi est le lieu de rencontre de tout les types d&#8217;alpinisme. C&#8217;est le lieu où se côtoie alpinisme difficile (Grand Pilier d&#8217;Angle]], Freney&#8230;) et facile ([[summits/37355/fr/mont-blanc#les-5-voies-normales|voie normale du Mon Blanc]], [[summits/39351|Pointe Lachenal]] et [[routes/53884|Arête des Cosmiques.</p> <h4>L&#8217;aiguille Verte, les Courtes</h4> <p>L&#8217;Aiguille Verte tient une place importante dans le massif tant elle attire l&#8217;œil depuis la vallée. Elle regorge de couloirs et arêtes réputées. Plus au Nord, ce sont les Droites et les Courtes dont la réputation des faces N n&#8217;est plus à faire. Leur face S accueille quant&#8217;à elle des itinéraires d&#8217;alpinisme plus classique.</p> <h4>Les aiguilles de Chamonix</h4> <p>Ce groupe de sommet va de l&#8217;aiguille du Midi jusqu&#8217;à l&#8217;aiguille des Grands Charmoz. C&#8217;est un endroit propice à de belles escalades modernes et anciennes.</p> <h4>Les Grandes Jorasses</h4> <p>Si on doit citer une face N du massif du Mont Blanc, ce sera celle-là. Une des plus réputée des Alpes.</p> <h4>L&#8217;aiguille d&#8217;Argentière et du Chardonnet</h4> <p>L&#8217;aiguille d&#8217;Argentière, tout comme celle du Chardonnet sont des petits massifs à eux tout seul&#160;; ils concentrent tout ce qu&#8217;on peut trouver en montagne&#160;: goulottes et courses glacières en versant N, traversée d&#8217;arête, escalade et ski de montagne. Assurément un beau coin.</p> <h2>Les activités de montagne</h2> <h3>Ski de randonnée</h3> <p>Le Mont-Blanc, de part sa grande surface glaciaire comporte plus d&#8217;itinéraires sérieux que n&#8217;importe quel autre massif français. C&#8217;est également un excellent massif pour la pente raide. En effet, les nombreuses remontés mécaniques permettent d&#8217;accéder facilement à de belles pentes.</p> <h3>Alpinisme</h3> <p>Chamonix est la Mecque mondialement connue de l&#8217;alpinisme.</p> <h4>Neige/Glace/Mixte</h4> <h5>Alpinisme classique</h5> <ul> <li>Mont blanc</li> </ul> <h5>Goulottes</h5> <p>Le massif du Mont-Blanc propose de nombreuses goulottes dont les principaux sommets sont&#160;:</p> <ul> <li>Aiguille du Chardonnet&#160;: belles goulottes de difficultés modérées</li> <li>Aiguille du Midi&#160;: goulottes variées facilement accessibles grâce au téléphérique</li> <li>Grandes Jorasses&#160;: goulottes engagées dans une face de légende</li> <li>Mont Blanc du Tacul&#160;: goulottes faciles d&#8217;accès mais fréquentés</li> <li>Triangle du Tacul&#160;: goulottes &#8220;école&#8221;</li> </ul> <h4>Rocher haute montagne</h4> <p>Le granite Chamoniard n&#8217;est plus a présenté et on peut citer quelques haut lieu de l&#8217;escalade Chamoniarde&#160;:</p> <ul> <li>Envers des Aiguilles</li> <li>Grand Capucin</li> </ul> <p>Malheureusement, le massif pâti de l&#8217;absence d&#8217;une mise à jour d&#8217;un topo rocheux exhaustif. On pourra trouver de nombreuses information à la maison de la montagne à Chamonix.</p> <h3>La cascade de glace</h3> <ul> <li>Cascades du glacier d&#8217;Argentière</li> <li>Cascades de Trient</li> </ul> <h3>La randonnée pédestre</h3> <p>Le massif du Mont-Blanc est avant tout un massif réservé à l&#8217;alpinisme. Cependant, il est possible pour les randonneurs de trouver de belle promenades qui permettrons de s&#8217;approcher de près ou de loin de ce monde de glace et de roc.</p> <h4>Tour du Mont-Blanc</h4> <p><em>A compléter</em></p> <h4>Ballades panoramiques</h4> <ul> <li>Lac Blanc</li> <li>Les aiguilles rouges</li> </ul> <h4>Rando au plus près des glaces</h4> <ul> <li>La jonction</li> <li>Balcons de la Mer de Glace</li> <li>Traversée Montenvers - Plan de l&#8217;Aiguille</li> </ul> <h2>Les différents topos</h2> <h3>Les beaux livres</h3> <ul> <li>100 plus belles, topo quelque peu démodé mais qui reste une référence.</li> <li>Sommets du Mont Blanc, un beau livre avec des courses de niveau F à D dans le massif du Mont Blanc et des Aiguilles Rouges.</li> </ul> <h3>Topos exhaustifs</h3> <ul> <li>Vallot (Labande) Tome 1]] et [[books/136810|Tome 2, guide de référence mais pas vraiment à jour (dernière édition en 1978)</li> <li>Topo Suisse CAS, topo exhaustif neige glace et mixte mais aussi escalade.</li> <li>Neige, Glace et Mixte Tome 1]] &amp; [[books/136808|Tome 2, un topo de référence sur le Massif du Mont Blanc.</li> </ul> <p>Il n&#8217;y a actuellement aucun topo d&#8217;escalade rocheuse à jour pour le massif.</p> <h3>Topo spécifiques</h3> <ul> <li>Envers des Aiguilles (Piola)</li> <li>Toponeige Mont Blanc</li> </ul>

Punta Innominata

Historique

Bibliographie

Routes

Innominata ridge

E ridge

Cresta SE dal Colle dell'Innominata

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