Normal route - Aiguille Dibona - Écrins - France

Normal route

Min / max altitude2719m / 3131m
Duration2 hours 34 minutes
Main facingN
Route typeReturn the same way
Glacier gear required
GearCuerda 2×25 m cintas algún fisurero pequeño y mediano si vamos justos en el nivel
Source

Details

Ascent # 1h

From Soreiller refuge, traverse an area of large boulders to the west leading to an easy rocky slope making it possible to cross the crest formed by the last basements SW of Dibona (visible signal from the refuge). Take the cree slopes (trails and cairns) to access the firn resulting from the W pass of Soreiller. At the top of the latter (2980 m approximately), via a trail on ledges (cairns) and a snow covered flat area at the beginning of the summer, you reach Brèche des Clochetons where you rope up (3048 m).

North ridge

Then make an easy traverse under Clochetons Gunneng, to reach the notch separating the small pinnacles of the pinnacle proper. From there, 2 short and exposed pitches (pitons, possibility of using nuts, belays on chains) make it possible to arrive at the summit.

Descent # 1h15

From the summit, you reach the rappel chain via a short downclimb. Make a 50 m rappel (possibility of descending in two shorter rappels) to arrive at the notch between Aiguille Dibona and Clochetons Gunneng. Make an easy downclimb traversing downward to reach the broad party ledges of Brèche des Clochetons. From here take the ascent route.

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