E face and Traverse - Aiguilles Crochues - Sommet S - Haut Giffre - Aiguilles Rouges - Fiz - France

E face and Traverse

Min / max altitude2383m / 2840m
Duration4 hours 20 minutes
Main facingE
Route typeTraverse
GearAlgún fisurero, friend +5 cintas exprés + casco + cuerda de 50 m
Source

Details

Approach

From the top of the Index chairlift, follow the path towards the Col des Crochues. A little before the col, take a faint path to the right which goes to the foot of the E face. Go along the face until the start of the route.

Route

L# | Traverse for 30m (2b, 1 peg). Belay on a rock spike at the foot of a deep chimney. L# | Climb the chimney and exit to the right (3b, 1 peg) to a little stony terrace. Belay on two pegs.
L# | Climb a magnificent, slanting corner on the left, (4b, one abandoned friend) and follow a nice crack, easy to protect, to a large rock spike L# | 6a or 4c/A0. The difficulties are only in the first 5m. Start at an abandoned friend, then an old peg above the hard part, to the crest of the ridge. Belay on a rock spike and a bolt.

It is possible to descend the ridge from here to the Col des Crochues, There is a chimney to down climb at 3, (or abseil.) Traverse the summits of the Crochues by the crest of the ridge, sometimes on the N side until the highest point, 2840m.

Descent

Descend easily towards the Lac Blanc and take the path back either to the Index chairlift or the Flégère cable car.

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