## Approach

40-45mins

From the top of the Index lift, go N along the path towards the Col des Crochues until you reach the top of the teleski. (You pass underneath the cliff with "Robin Wood" etc.) From here you can see the cliff which is at the lowest point of the rocks descending from the Aig Crochues, well to the right of S ridge, (Voie Ravanel). Contour as best as you can to the foot of the cliff. "Voie Apo" starts just to the right of an obvious gully, and is currently marked with a red stick and a small cairn. Bolts visible, (with Kong hangers.)

## Route

| Pitch     | Description                                                                             |
| --------- | --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| L1,5c,35m | Quickly becomes quite technical with awkwardly sloping holds.                           |
| L2,5a,30m | Some care needed with the rock.                                                         |
| L3,5a,35m | Traverse rightwards then up a pleasant rib. This is followed by a loose chimney.        |
| L4,5c,35m | Good, sustained climbing, then an easy ridge to a good stance.                          |
| L5,5c,15m | The difficulties are over after 7m.                                                     |

## Descent

**Either**: walk off to the right, looking upwards, to get down to the scree slope on the right-hand side of the crag (still looking upwards.)

**Or**: Abseil down the route, taking great care not to snag the rope. From the top of pitch 2 it is possible to abseil directly into the gully on the right, (looking downwards.)

Well bolted. All belays with two bolts and a maillon. (Slings joining the bolts need replacing, 2014) Not a popular route so still has some loose rock and lichen. Solitude guaranteed. The easier sister route to "Vieux Bouc," which starts about 40m further to the right.

<h2>Approach 40-45mins</h2> <p>From the top of the Index lift, go N along the path towards the Col des Crochues until you reach the top of the teleski. (You pass underneath the cliff with &#8220;Robin Wood&#8221; etc.) From here you can see the cliff which is at the lowest point of the rocks descending from the Aig Crochues, well to the right of S ridge, (Voie Ravanel). Contour as best as you can to the foot of the cliff. &#8220;Voie Apo&#8221; starts just to the right of an obvious gully, and is currently marked with a red stick and a small cairn. Bolts visible, (with Kong hangers.)</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>L# | 5c | 35m | Quickly becomes quite technical with awkwardly sloping holds. L# | 5a | 30m | Some care needed with the rock. L# | 5a | 35m | Traverse rightwards then up a pleasant rib. This is followed by a loose chimney. L# | 5c | 35m | Good, sustained climbing, then an easy ridge to a good stance. L# | 5c | 15m | The difficulties are over after 7m.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p><strong>Either</strong>: walk off to the right, looking upwards, to get down to the scree slope on the right hand side of the crag (still looking upwards.) <strong>Or</strong>: Abseil down the route, taking great care not to snag the rope. From the top of pitch 2 it is possible to abseil directly into the gully on the right, (looking downwards.)</p>

partie inférieure de la Pointe S

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<p>Sommet se trouvant sur les limites de la réserve naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges entre l&#8217;Aiguille du Belvédère au N et l&#8217;Aiguille de la Floria au S. Sommet présentant une jolie petite face E parcourue par au moins deux itinéraires,la classique &#8220;Simond 1960&#8221; D inf. et &#8220;Lux&#8221; TD de M.Piola. ainsi que de belles arêtes comprenant la plus que classique &#8220;Traversée des Crochues&#8221; PD sup. et l&#8217;arête S &#8220;voie Ravanel&#8221; D sup. 400&#160;m.</p>

Aiguilles Crochues - Sommet S

Wonderful ridge traverse with lots of fun interesting rock moves, great views of the Mont Blanc range, and straightforward access. It is one of the classics of the area, very popular in summer.

### Approach
1 h

From the top of the Index chairlift (2385m) take the path at first down a little bit, then a rising traverse N along the base of steep rock (Aiguillette de la Floria) to the top of the Floria drag-lift. Continue rising traverse N at first under steep rock (lower slopes of E face of Grande Floria), then across an open slope (snow in early season). Down a little to get below the base of rocky rib (bottom of Pointe Gaspard) then climb steeper to start up into the wide gully/couloir along its N side (much snow in early season, often still some snow/ice later) which ascends (mostly 35-40 degrees, perhaps steeper in the last 20m) roughly W up to the Col des Crochues (2701m).

After going up a little in the gully/couloir, it may be safer (less time exposed to rockfall) to move R to its N side, toward the bottom anchor bolts of the climbing route "Lux", later back L into the gully.

### Route

From the Col do not take the line of the ridge but make a traverse (slightly rising) along the NW side about 60-80m to an obvious chimney/dihedral (slanting a bit L). Climb this (about 30m, could be split into two pitches) to a terrace (3c/4a). Ascend the easy rocks and ledges on the NW face, at first trending L, later perhaps R (to maximize enjoyment, or perhaps more L to save time) up to the narrow ridge/arete. Climb along the ridge (3a/3b) until reaching a break (the second one?) with two anchor bolts. Descend the steep NW side by a rappel/abseil not more than 15m (or down-climb on positive holds 3a/3b). Soon after that, cross over to the SE side of the ridge. See a horizontal path along that side, but do not continue on that. Instead, after about 2m climb up the SE face to regain the narrow ridge/arete again.

Continue following the narrow ridge/arete (3a/3b) roughly NNE. A short wall and easy ledges on the NW side lead to the (highest) South summit of the Aiguilles Crochues (or this summit can be bypassed to save time). From here descend easily to a niche and climb the ridge to the middle summit. Descend to the NE and then back upwards easily to the North summit of the Aiguilles Crochues.

### Descent

Several possibilities depending on conditions and desires:

- **For those who prefer food and drink, and avoidance of steepness:** Descend to the Refuge de Lac Blanc. Continue at most a short way N down the ridge, soon turn E down a scree slope at first narrow, then opens wide (with some snow, more in early season). Can try to avoid so much on snow by trending more toward R (S side of slope) staying closer to the ridge going ENE down from N summit of Aiguilles Crochues. Down roughly NE, then E, then SE to the Lac Blanc (2352m) and around its N shore to reach the Refuge. (Side Trip: after descending a short way, could then traverse N and climb to the summit of the Aiguille Belvedere by normal route. From the Refuge, follow the signed path roughly S back to the top of the Flegere lift.
- **For the shortest distance:** Descend on the side facing Lac Blanc in the direction of the Tour des Crochues, which you keep on your right, to the top of a steep gully of loose rocks. Climb down this and the scree slope below to the path leading back to the Index chairlift.
- **For additional interesting moves on a new narrow ridge/arete:** Continue N along the ridge to the Col des Dards (3b/3c with *much* down-climbing) - (careful of more loose rock, because less frequently climbed), then down NE and E then SE to Lac Blanc and the Refuge).
- **For additional interesting moves on the old narrow ridge/arete:** Reverse the route, which might include a 20m rappel/abseil in the first chimney/dihedral.
- **To avoid the upper snow slopes and small glacier:** It is possible to descend (3b/3c with *much* down-climbing, loose rock) via the Col des Dards to the Lac Blanc.

- Bolts or pitons are rather sparse. Most of the protection is either by the cleverness of the leader running the climbing rope around opposite sides of (the many) rock horns, or wrapping slings around rock horns.
- Ideal for practicing basic alpine ropework (provided someone in the party understands how to do it).
- Two ways to "play the game": (a) minimize time and effort by avoiding difficulties; or (b) make your moves as close as possible to the crest: maximize time of "balls over the razor".
- This ridge is often done in reverse, especially by parties descending from the E Face or the Voie Ravanel

<h2>Approach# 1 h</h2> <p>From the top of the Index chairlift (2385m) take the path at first down a little bit, then a rising traverse N along the base of steep rock (Aiguillette de la Floria) to the top of the Floria drag-lift. Continue rising traverse N at first under steep rock (lower slopes of E face of Grande Floria), then across an open slope (snow in early season). Down a little to get below the base of rocky rib (bottom of Pointe Gaspard) then climb steeper to start up into the wide gully/couloir along its N side (much snow in early season, often still some snow/ice later) which ascends (mostly 35-40 degrees, perhaps steeper in the last 20m) roughly W up to the Col des Crochues (2701m).</p> <p>After going up a little in the gully/couloir, it may be safer (less time exposed to rockfall) to move R to its N side, toward the bottom anchor bolts of the climbing route &#8220;Lux&#8221;, later back L into the gully.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>From the Col do not take the line of the ridge but make a traverse (slightly rising) along the NW side about 60-80m to an obvious chimney/dihedral (slanting a bit L). Climb this (about 30m, could be split into two pitches) to a terrace (3c/4a). Ascend the easy rocks and ledges on the NW face, at first trending L, later perhaps R (to maximize enjoyment, or perhaps more L to save time) up to the narrow ridge/arete. Climb along the ridge (3a/3b) until reach a break (the second one?) with two anchor bolts. Descend the steep NW side by a rappel/abseil not more than 15m (or down-climb on positive holds 3a/3b). Soon after that, cross over to the SE side of the ridge. See a horizontal path along that side, but do not continue on that. Instead, after about 2m climb up the SE face to regain the narrow ridge/arete again.</p> <p>Continue following the narrow ridge/arete (3a/3b) roughly NNE. A short wall and easy ledges on the NW side lead to the (highest) South summit of the Aiguilles Crochues (or this summit can be bypassed to save time). From here descend easily to a niche and climb the ridge to the middle summit. Descend to the NE and then back upwards easily to the North summit of the Aiguilles Crochues.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Several possibilities depending on conditions and desires:</p> <ul> <li>(for those who prefer food and drink, and avoidance of steepness) Descend to the Refuge de Lac Blanc. Continue at most a short ways N down the ridge, soon turn E down a scree slope at first narrow, then opens wide (with some snow, more in early season). Can try to avoid so much on snow by trending more toward R (S side of slope) staying closer the ridge going ENE down from N summit of Aiguilles Crochues. Down roughly NE, then E, then SE to the Lac Blanc (2352m) and around its N shore to reach the Refuge. (Side Trip: after descending a short ways, could then traverse N and climb to the summit of the Aiguille Belvedere by <a href="http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54691/en/aiguille-du-belvedere-normal-route">normal route</a>, then return to this descent route to Lac Blanc). From the Refuge, follow the signed path roughly S back to the top of the Flegere lift.</li> <li>(for the shortest distance) Descend on the side facing Lac Blanc in the direction of the Tour des Crochues, which you keep on your right, to the top of a steep gully of loose rocks. Climb down this and the scree slope below to the path leading back to the Index chairlift.</li> <li>(for additional interesting moves on a new narrow ridge/arete) Continue N along the ridge to the Col des Dards (3b/3c with <em>much</em> down-climbing) - (careful of more loose rock, because less frequently climbed), then down NE and E then SE to Lac Blanc and the Refuge).</li> <li>(for additional interesting moves on the old narrow ridge/arete): Reverse the route, which might include a 20m rappel/abseil in the first chimney/dihedral.</li> <li>(to avoid the upper snow slopes and small glacier) It is possible to descend (3b/3c with <em>much</em> down-climbing, loose rock) via the Col des Dards to the Lac Blanc.</li> </ul>

Traversée des Aiguilles Crochues 2

La fissure de 30m depuis le Col des Aig. Crochues

Crochues, sommet S

Crochues traverse

Aiguilles Crochues - Sommet N

A varied and classic route, with the typical Aiguilles Rouges view across to the Massif.

### Approach
From the top of the Index chairlift, follow the path towards the Col des Crochues. A little before the col, take a faint path to the right which goes to the foot of the E face. Go along the face until the start of the route.

### Route
| Pitch | Description |
| ----- | ----------- |
| L1,2b,30m | Traverse for 30m (2b, 1 peg). Belay on a rock spike at the foot of a deep chimney. |
| L2,3b | Climb the chimney and exit to the right (3b, 1 peg) to a little stony terrace. Belay on two pegs. |
| L3,4b | Climb a magnificent, slanting corner on the left, (4b, one abandoned friend) and follow a nice crack, easy to protect, to a large rock spike |
| L4,6a | 6a or 4c/A0. The difficulties are only in the first 5m. Start at an abandoned friend, then an old peg above the hard part, to the crest of the ridge. Belay on a rock spike and a bolt. |

*It is possible to descend the ridge from here to the Col des Crochues. There is a chimney to down climb at 3, (or abseil.)* Traverse the summits of the Crochues by the crest of the ridge, sometimes on the N side until the highest point, 2840m.

### Descent
Descend easily towards the Lac Blanc and take the path back either to the Index chairlift or the Flégère cable car.

- Nice, short route suitable for beginners.
- Following a rock landslide in 2005, the start of the 4th pitch is now harder. This short steep wall is much more technical than the rest of the route.

<h2>Approach</h2> <p>From the top of the Index chairlift, follow the path towards the Col des Crochues. A little before the col, take a faint path to the right which goes to the foot of the E face. Go along the face until the start of the route.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>L# | Traverse for 30m (2b, 1 peg). Belay on a rock spike at the foot of a deep chimney. L# | Climb the chimney and exit to the right (3b, 1 peg) to a little stony terrace. Belay on two pegs.<br /> L# | Climb a magnificent, slanting corner on the left, (4b, one abandoned friend) and follow a nice crack, easy to protect, to a large rock spike L# | 6a or 4c/A0. The difficulties are only in the first 5m. Start at an abandoned friend, then an old peg above the hard part, to the crest of the ridge. Belay on a rock spike and a bolt.</p> <p><em>It is possible to descend the ridge from here to the Col des Crochues, There is a chimney to down climb at 3, (or abseil.)</em> Traverse the summits of the Crochues by the crest of the ridge, sometimes on the N side until the highest point, 2840m.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Descend easily towards the Lac Blanc and take the path back either to the Index chairlift or the Flégère cable car.</p>

Topo : Crochues, face E et voie Lux

E face and Traverse

<h2>Montée approche</h2> <p>Des Praz (parking du golf), prendre le sentier remontant la rive gauche de l&#8217;Arve, traverser le pont puis continuer tout droit en laissant à droite le sentier de l&#8217;Arve, monter quelques mètres pour trouver le sentier montant à la Flégère à droite. Suivre ce sentier qui monte ensuite à gauche et rejoint la piste de ski la remonter. Si c&#8217;est déneigé prendre le sentier entre le point 1310&#160;m (en rentrant à nouveau dans la forêt) et le croisement 1560&#160;m, reprendre la piste de ski. A la Flégère passer à droite du premier bâtiment, descendre légèrement jusqu&#8217;à un replat en passant sous le télésiège de la Trappe. Monter au N puis au NE en passant sous le télésiège de la Chavanne, laisser à droite un bergerie et monter au N dans la combe des aiguilles Crochues en longeant une falaise rocheuse à droite.</p> <h2>Le couloir NE</h2> <p>Remonter un large couloir qui tourne à gauche puis rejoindre en traversée ascendante à gauche la pente sommitale non visible auparavant. Remonter cette pente jusqu&#8217;au sommet 2840&#160;m, point culminant des aiguilles Crochues.</p> <h2>Descente</h2> <p>Par le même itinéraire.</p>

Aig. Crochues- sommet S - le haut du couloir NE

Aig. Crochues - sommet S - couloir NE

Face NE

<h2>Ski de randonnée</h2> <h3>Alpes</h3> <h4>Mont Blanc</h4> <p>Mont Blanc</p> <h4>Écrins</h4> <h4>Vanoise</h4> <h4>Vercors</h4> <p>Vercors</p> <h4>Chartreuse</h4> <p>La Chartreuse est un massif bien arrosé qui lui assure un bon enneigement malgré son altitude modeste (Chamechaude étant son point culminant (2082m). La première partie est généralement boisée alors que les sommets sont souvent défendus par de grandes barres rocheuses qui donne a ce massif un caractère qui lui est propre.</p> <h3>Pyrénées</h3> <h2>Alpinisme</h2> <h3>Alpes</h3> <h4>Chamonix - Mont Blanc</h4> <h4>Écrins</h4> <h4>Vanoise</h4> <h3>Pyrénées</h3> <h2>Escalade</h2> <h3>Verdon</h3> <h3>Hautes Alpes</h3> <ul> <li>Céuse</li> <li>Orpierre</li> </ul>

France

<p>On regroupe dans ce massif le chaînon des Dents du Midi (partie la plus septentrionale), le massif du Haut-Giffre, de Sixt et de Faucigny (ce dernier incluant la chaîne des Fiz), ainsi que les Aiguilles Rouges, séparées du massif du Mont-Blanc par l&#8217;Arve.</p>

Aiguilles Crochues - Sommet S

Routes

partie inférieure de la Pointe S

Crochues traverse

E face and Traverse

Face NE

Download the Whympr App to view this POI in 3D.