## Route

Go up the Lys glacier under the W flank of the Vincent Pyramide and cross the snow hump at 4252m, to the east of the Lisjoch (4153m) to reach the Gnifetti col (4452m). From the col climb to the summit of the **Zumsteinspitze** (4563m) by the frontier ridge. Next, climb the **Signalkuppe** (4554m) which has the Margharita hut on its summit. Re-descend and contour at around 4200m to the foot of the **Parrotspize** (4432m). Climb this by a snow slope at 50º. Now climb the **Ludwigshöhe** (4311m) by its N side. To climb the **Corno Nero** (or Schwarzhorn) (4321m), go down directly to the saddle between it and the Ludwigshöhe and so up to the summit. Then go to the Vincent col (4087m) and climb up to the **Vincent Pyramide** (4215m).

## Descent

Rejoin the ascent route and so back down to the Gnifetti hut.

- You need to be well acclimatized.
- Route finding difficult if there is fog, lots of crevasses.
- The Gnifetti Col can also be reached from the Monte Rosa Hut. (see Zumsteinspitze from the Monte Rosa hut
- Possible to traverse Italy to Switzerland or vice versa.
- Probably most enjoyable to do on skis in Spring.
- You can add a dubious 7th summit by going to the **Balmenhorn** (4167m), just E of the Lysjoch (biv Giordano on its summit).

<h2>Route</h2> <p>Go up the Lys glacier under the W flank of the Vincent Pyramide and cross the snow hump at 4252m, to the east of the Lisjoch (4153m) to reach the Gnifetti col(4452m. From the col climb to the summit of the <strong>Zumsteinspitze</strong> (4563m) by the frontier ridge. Next climb the <strong>Signalkuppe</strong> (4554m) which has the Margharita hut on its summit. Re-descend and contour at around 4200m to the foot of the <strong>Parrotspize</strong> (4432m). Climb this by a snow slope at 50º. Now climb the <strong>Ludwigshöhe</strong> (4311m) by its N side. To climb the <strong>Corno Nero</strong> (or Schwarzhorn) (4321m), go down directly to the saddle between it and the Ludwigshöhe and so up to the summit. Then go to the Vincent col (4087m) and climb up to the <strong>Vincent Pyramide</strong> (4215m).</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Rejoin the ascent route and so back down to the Gnifetti hut.</p>

Bivouac Giordano et Christ des Sommets au Balmenhorn

Traverse of six "4000"

Camptocamp

camptocamp

Switzerland

<h2>Géographie</h2> <ul> <li>Col associé à la proéminence&#160;: Grenzsattel (4453&#160;m)</li> <li>Plus proche parent et parent principal&#160;: Pointe Dufour (4634&#160;m)</li> <li>Rayon de dominance&#160;: ~500&#160;m</li> <li>Point de limite de dominance&#160;: arête SE de la Pointe Dufour (4634&#160;m)</li> </ul> <h2>Historique</h2> <ul> <li>1<sup>re</sup> ascension&#160;: 1<sup>er</sup> août 1820 - Joseph Vincent, Johann Niklaus, Joseph Zumstein, Molinatti et Castel et d&#8217;autres.</li> <li>Arête N&#160;: <ul> <li>1<sup>er</sup> parcours (à la descente)&#160;: 28 juiller 1882&#160;: Karl Blodig, Christian Ranggetiner.</li> <li>1<sup>re</sup> ascension connue&#160;: 22 juillet 1886 - Christian (fils) et Rudolf Almer, William Martin Conway, W. A. B. Coolidge.</li> </ul></li> </ul> <h2>Webographie</h2> <p><a href="https://www.bergwelten.com/a/bergportrait-zumsteinspitze-4-563-m">Bergportrait</a> sur Bergwelten [de].</p> <h2>Bibliographie</h2> <ul> <li><em>The Lys Joch and Zumstein Spitze fifty years ago</em> par F. F. Tuckett, <a href="https://books.google.fr/books?id=OflYAAAAcAAJ&amp;pg=PA136#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false"><em>Alpine Journal</em>, vol 5, 1870, n<sup>o</sup>31, p.136-142</a>&#160;: histoire de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension (en anglais).</li> <li><em>Zumsteinspitze from the Grenzsattel</em> par W. A. B. Coolidge, <a href="https://books.google.fr/books?id=jahJAAAAYAAJ&amp;pg=PA126#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false"><em>Alpine Journal</em>, vol. 13, 1886, n<sup>o</sup>94, p.126</a>&#160;: mention de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension de l&#8217;arête N (en anglais).</li> </ul> <h2>Panorama</h2> <p><a href="https://www.airpano.com/360photo/zermatt-matterhorn-monte-cervino/?startscene=11&amp;ath=64.292&amp;atv=15.770&amp;fov=40.00">Vue proche de la Capanna Regina Margherita</a> par airpano.com <a href="https://www.airpano.com/360photo/zermatt-matterhorn-monte-cervino/?startscene=9&amp;ath=-90.170&amp;atv=38.560&amp;fov=46.49">Vue au dessus de la pointe Dufour</a> par airpano.com</p>

Zumsteinspitze

<ul> <li><p>Partie Est du Valais.</p></li> <li><p>Liste des sommets</p></li> <li><p>Liste des refuges</p></li> <li><p>Liste des accès</p></li> </ul>

Valais E - Pennine Alps E

Italy

<h2>Historique</h2> <ul> <li>1<sup>re</sup> ascension probable&#160;: 17 août 1873 - Peter Knubel et un porteur (de la caravane Maglioni - Rotschild, avant leur 1<sup>re</sup> ascension du Schwarzhorn le lendemain).</li> <li>2<sup>e</sup> ascension connue&#160;: 6 août 1875 - Giovanni Mariotti, Andrea Pedretti, Simone Viguey, Welf, David Zaccaria.</li> <li>Autre ascension connue&#160;: 14 août 1884 - J. Barmasse, William Martin Conway et un porteur.</li> </ul> <h2>Webographie</h2> <p><a href="https://www.bergwelten.com/a/bergportrait-balmenhorn-4-167-m">Bergportrait</a> sur Bergwelten [de].</p> <h2>Bibliographie</h2> <ul> <li><em>Prima ascensione dello Schwarzhorn</em> par M. Maglioni, <a href="http://www.tecadigitale.cai.it/periodici/PDF/Bollettino/Bollettino%20del%20Club%20Alpino%20Italiano_1874-1875_22.pdf#page=136"><em>Bollettino CAI</em>, vol. 8, 1874, n<sup>o</sup>22, p.121</a>&#160;: mention de la 1<sup>re</sup> ascension (en italien).</li> <li><em>Balmenhorn</em>, <a href="http://www.tecadigitale.cai.it/periodici/PDF/Alpinista/CAI_L'alpinista_002_012_1875.pdf#page=5"><em>L&#8217;Alpinista</em> CAI, 1874, n<sup>o</sup>12, p.179</a>&#160;: mention de l&#8217;ascension de 1875 (en italien).</li> <li><em>Monte Rosa From the South</em> par W. M. Conway, <a href="https://books.google.bj/books?id=WRYmEEEnUGkC&amp;pg=PA70&amp;hl=fr&amp;source=gbs_toc_r&amp;cad=3#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false"><em>Alpine Journal</em>, vol. 12, n<sup>o</sup>86, 1884, p.70-71</a> et <a href="https://books.google.bj/books?id=WRYmEEEnUGkC&amp;pg=PA122&amp;hl=fr&amp;source=gbs_toc_r&amp;cad=3#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false">p.122</a>&#160;: historique du sommet et chronique de l&#8217;ascension de 1884 (en anglais).</li> </ul>

Traverse of six "4000"

Details

Route

Descent

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