Historical route on the north face. Never technically extreme, but complicated from the point of view of protection placing and route finding.

### Ascent

Pass the rocky barrier which prevents access to the glacier with a fixed rope and crossing to the right. Cross the glacier towards the right; do not attack the snow slopes too early (typical error in the dark!). The ramp is overcome by a pitch in mixed climbing on the right M4. Climb it on 3 or 2 big pitches. When it becomes steeper, cross to the right to a snowy spur then again go to the right to get to a beautiful M5 chimney (one can continue into the ramp and cross to the right on bad rock). A long pitch on thin ice to meet the beautiful ice flow 4/4+; belay on the right. Cross horizontally over 30m in order to arrive to the edge of a spur. 70° degrees chimney then mixed climbing to rejoin the final slopes not far from the Zmutt ridge.

### Descent

By Hörnli Ridge.

<h2>Ascent</h2> Pass the rocky barrier which prevents access to the glacier with a fixed rope and crossing to the right. Cross the glacier towards the right; do not attack the snow slopes too early (typical error in the dark!) The ramp is overcome by a pitch in mixed climbing on the right M4. Climb it on 3 or 2 big pitches. When it becomes steeper, cross to the right to a snowy spur then again go to the right to get to a beautiful M5 chimney (one can continue into the ramp and cross to the right on bad rock). A long pitch on thin ice to meet the beautiful ice flow 4/4+&#160;; belay on the right. Cross horizontally over 30m in order to arrive to the edge of a spur. 70° degrees chimney then mixed climbing to rejoin the final slopes not far from the Zmutt ridge. <h2>Descent</h2> By Hörnli Ridge

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Cervin : Face N - Voie Schmid

Face N du Cervin

camptocamp

N Face - Schmid Route

Camptocamp

Italy

The Matterhorn is the emblem of Zermatt, the Valais and even Switzerland. It is an immense rocky obelisk with 4 ridges and a head tipping slightly towards Zermatt. The summit is a narrow rocky ridge, 80m long. The Swiss summit, on the N end of the ridge, is 1.10m higher than the Italian summit, which bears a huge cross. First ascent on the 14th of July 1865 by Edward Whymper, D.R. Hadow, Charles Hudson, Francis Douglas and the guides Michel-Auguste Croz, Peter Taugwalder (father and son). The N face, one the three problems of the Alps with the N face of the Eiger and that of the Grandes Jorasses, was first climbed by Franz and Toni Schmid in 1931.

Matterhorn

<ul> <li>Partie Ouest du Valais.</li> <li>Liste des sommets</li> <li>Liste des refuges</li> <li>Liste des accès</li> </ul>

N Face - Schmid Route

Details

Ascent

Descent

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