## Approche
_À compléter_

## Voie
Suivre l'itinéraire du Couloir Heubi (it. 1163 dans guide CAS) jusqu'à 30 m sous la brèche de l'Arête W.
De là (it. 1155 du guide CAS), prendre la petite arête à droite d'un dièdre sinueux. Puis traverser ce dièdre au-dessus d'une zone surplombante et prendre un autre dièdre qui part à gauche. Suivre ce dièdre jusqu'à un 2<sup>e</sup> surplomb, l'éviter par la gauche. De là, soit monter tout droit sur le sommet, soit tirer légèrement à droite pour rejoindre l'arête W.

##Descente
Descendre par l'itinéraire du versant NE de la voie normale (it. 1152 du guide CAS).

<h2>Vía</h2> <p>Seguir el itinerario del corredor Heubi (it. 1163&#160;en al reseña CAS) hasta 30&#160;m bajo la brecha de la Arista W. Desde entonces (it. 1155 de la reseña CAS), coger la pequeña arista a la derecha de un diedro sinuoso. luego atravesar aquel diedro por encima de un tramo extraplomado y coger otro diedro que sale a la izquierda. Seguir este diedro hasta un 2.<sup>o</sup> desplome, sortearlo por la izquierda. Desde entonces, bien subir todo recto hasta la cumbre, o bien tirar algo a la derecha para llegar a la arista W.</p> <h2>Descenso</h2> <p>bajar por el itinerario de la vertiente NE de la vía normal (it. 1152 de la guía CAS).</p>

Aiguilles du Van - Switzerland

Aiguilles du Van - cara NW y arista W

camptocamp

##Approach # 1h
Cross the Emosson dam towards the Vieux Emosson and then take the Loriaz path on the left.  Shortly after passing a rock with a chain, there is a cairn on a boulder at the start of a faint path.  Go up this path through rhododenrons and bilberry bushes towards the Aiguilles du Van, some cairns.  At about 2120m, in front of the Aiguilles, and at the base of a rock barrier, leave the path going up to the col between the two Vans, (descent path), instead go horizontally right, (following another vague path).  This leads past an small enclosed gully with a recessed slab on its right.  Descend slightly to a rib on the right, scramble up easily for 2m to a worn ledge with a single bolt for a belay.

##Route
P1	5b		Traverse leftwards towards the little gully. Belay above a step near the gully, which is reached by a horizontal traverse on the left. 
P2	6a	       The key pitch. Spaced holds in a good position above the gully. 
P3	6a		An excellent pitch, the difficulties are concentrated at a 10-15m steep wall with few holds.
P4	5b		Exit the pitch through a zone of half rock, half vegetation. 
*A 50m walk the reach the rest of the route.* 
P5	5c		A steep and strenuous pitch up a corner on good holds. 
P6	5b		Go diagonally leftwards, cracks. 
P7	5b		Nice pitch, not sustained.
P8	5c+ 		The difficulties are concentrated at a 10m wall. 
P9	5a 		The last pitch with bolts.  Bolt belay on the right after passing over some blocks
P10 - P11		A couple of pitches along the ridge 3c then 2.  (Trad protection.)	

##Descent
Go over the summit and descend to the SE then to the S towards a gap between the N and S Aiguilles du Van. Easy but exposed, on earth and rock. 
Gain a faint path which starts on the left to go down a first rock step and reach the scree below. (N.B. Early in the season there could be a steep snow slope here.) 
Cross a second rock step in the middle of the scree, mainly on the left, (some down-climbing.)  There is a path on the right side of the scree. This crosses a third rock step, (some exposed down-climbing, fixed rope,) and joins the approach path.

The first three pitches are in the shade.
The rock is very lichenous in places and therefore slippy, especially if damp. This should improve the more the route is climbed.
Very well bolted with double bolts, (linked with a sling and a metal ring) for the belays. 
However, abseiling back down the route is not obvious.
It should be possible to make on abseil from the top of pitch 8, to reach easy ground and then the descent path.

<h2>Approach # 1h</h2> <p>Cross the Emosson dam towards the Vieux Emosson and then take the Loriaz path on the left. Shortly after passing a rock with a chain, there is a cairn on a boulder at the start of a faint path. Go up this path through rhododenrons and bilberry bushes towards the Aiguilles du Van, some cairns. At about 2120m, in front of the Aiguilles, and at the base of a rock barrier, leave the path going up to the col between the two Vans, (descent path), instead go horizontally right, (following another vague path). This leads past an small enclosed gully with a recessed slab on its right. Descend slightly to a rib on the right, scramble up easily for 2m to a worn ledge with a single bolt for a belay.</p> <h2>Route</h2> <p>P1 5b Traverse leftwards towards the little gully. Belay above a step near the gully, which is reached by a horizontal traverse on the left. P2 6a The key pitch. Spaced holds in a good position above the gully. P3 6a An excellent pitch, the difficulties are concentrated at a 10-15m steep wall with few holds. P4 5b Exit the pitch through a zone of half rock, half vegetation. <em>A 50m walk the reach the rest of the route.</em> P5 5c A steep and strenuous pitch up a corner on good holds. P6 5b Go diagonally leftwards, cracks. P7 5b Nice pitch, not sustained. P8 5c+ The difficulties are concentrated at a 10m wall. P9 5a The last pitch with bolts. Bolt belay on the right after passing over some blocks P10 - P11 A couple of pitches along the ridge 3c then 2. (Trad protection.)</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>Go over the summit and descend to the SE then to the S towards a gap between the N and S Aiguilles du Van. Easy but exposed, on earth and rock. Gain a faint path which starts on the left to go down a first rock step and reach the scree below. (N.B. Early in the season there could be a steep snow slope here.) Cross a second rock step in the middle of the scree, mainly on the left, (some down-climbing.) There is a path on the right side of the scree. This crosses a third rock step, (some exposed down-climbing, fixed rope,) and joins the approach path.</p> <p>The first three pitches are in the shade. The rock is very lichenous in places and therefore slippy, especially if damp. This should improve the more the route is climbed. Very well bolted with double bolts, (linked with a sling and a metal ring) for the belays. However, abseiling back down the route is not obvious. It should be possible to make on abseil from the top of pitch 8, to reach easy ground and then the descent path.</p>

Aiguilles du Van - Acqua concert

Camptocamp

An enjoyable, airy ridge; not sustained, mostly on good rock.  Superb views both towards the Mont Blanc Massif and of the lesser known peaks of Haut-Faucigny (Ruan, Tenneverge,...)

##Approach ~2h
Go across the dam and take the signposted path towards Loriaz on the left, then left again. Leave this after about 400m by a faint path, (starts at a cairn on top of a boulder in a very small valley, just as the main path rises slightly before starting to descend.)  Go up the slopes, which get steeper, with bits of rock, trending evermore rightwards.  
Climb an obvious rock step, (2b, exposed, 3 bolts and a fixed rope).
This leads into a broad, scree gully (cwm) coming down from the gap between the 2 Aiguilles du Van (N et S), clearly shown on the map.  Go up the cwm (often with snow,)  which includes a scramble up a small rock band about half way up, (2b, avoidable on the right).  This ends with some scrambling up a narrow gully to reach gap. (The correct way is reasonably well worn.) 

##Route ~4 to 6h for the ridge
From the gap, descend slightly on the W side and traverse under the S summit by a grassy ledge, (faint path) to reach the main ridge. *If you do decide to include the S, (highest) summit of the Aig du Van, then go up the unpleasant rocks from the gap, without major difficulty.  Descend the other side, initially easy, to an abseil point on the left, (thin slings with a maillon.) A 20m abseil brings you back to the lower traverse path and the ridge proper.*
From here it is fairly easy to the main summit of the Grand Perron (2674m). From here, make 3 abseils and some easy down climbing on the ridge to the gap under the Pointe Vouilloz.
Follow the crest of the ridge, exposed, to the summit, (3b/3c.)  Climb down a serrated ridge at the foot of which you descend due N (2 abseils from bolts, 20 and 25m, ignore the first abseil point from a flake,) to grassy slopes leading easily to the next gap, (between the Vouilloz - Ifala). 

The climb to the Ifala is the crux (4a/4b): keep well to the right of the ridge when starting from the gap.  Do not go towards an obvious hole but exit to a little gap slightly to the right (peg and friend in-situ.)  From here follow the crest of the ridge to the summit. 

##Descent ~1h30
Follow the ridge much more easily, (grass and rock,) bypassing obstacles first on the left then on the right, until the Brèche des Perrons.  From here you join a series of little lakes without further difficulty.   *N.B.  do not try and go down any of the gullies before the brèche, even though there are traces of a path and a cairn!* 

Follow the cairned way to the floor of the Gorge de la Veudale where you pick up the main path coming down from the Col de la Terrasse, (on the true left bank).  This leads back to the dam.

The ridge gets the morning sun.
Not much height gain but lots of ups and downs.  Allow at least 7-8hrs dam to dam.
Very good for practising moving together while roped up.
The ridge can be done W-E, but more difficult, D

<p>An enjoyable, airy ridge; not sustained, mostly on good rock. Superb views both towards the Mont Blanc Massif and of the lesser known peaks of Haut-Faucigny (Ruan, Tenneverge,&#8230;)</p> <h2>Approach ~2h</h2> <p>Go across the dam and take the signposted path towards Loriaz on the left, then left again. Leave this after about 400m by a faint path, (starts at a cairn on top of a boulder in a very small valley, just as the main path rises slightly before starting to descend.) Go up the slopes, which get steeper, with bits of rock, trending evermore rightwards.<br /> Climb an obvious rock step, (2b, exposed, 3 bolts and a fixed rope). This leads into a broad, scree gully (cwm) coming down from the gap between the 2 Aiguilles du Van (N et S), clearly shown on the map. Go up the cwm (often with snow,) which includes a scramble up a small rock band about half way up, (2b, avoidable on the right). This ends with some scrambling up a narrow gully to reach gap. (The correct way is reasonably well worn.)</p> <h2>Route ~4 to 6h for the ridge</h2> <p>From the gap, descend slightly on the W side and traverse under the S summit by a grassy ledge, (faint path) to reach the main ridge. <em>If you do decide to include the S, (highest) summit of the Aig du Van, then go up the unpleasant rocks from the gap, without major difficulty. Descend the other side, initially easy, to an abseil point on the left, (thin slings with a maillon.) A 20m abseil brings you back to the lower traverse path and the ridge proper.</em> From here it is fairly easy to the main summit of the Grand Perron (2674m). From here, make 3 abseils and some easy down climbing on the ridge to the gap under the Pointe Vouilloz. Follow the crest of the ridge, exposed, to the summit, (3b/3c.) Climb down a serrated ridge at the foot of which you descend due N (2 abseils from bolts, 20 and 25m, ignore the first abseil point from a flake,) to grassy slopes leading easily to the next gap, (between the Vouilloz - Ifala).</p> <p>The climb to the Ifala is the crux (4a/4b): keep well to the right of the ridge when starting from the gap. Do not go towards an obvious hole but exit to a little gap slightly to the right (peg and friend in-situ.) From here follow the crest of the ridge to the summit.</p> <h2>Descent ~1h30</h2> <p>Follow the ridge much more easily, (grass and rock,) bypassing obstacles first on the left then on the right, until the Brèche des Perrons. From here you join a series of little lakes without further difficulty. <em>N.B. do not try and go down any of the gullies before the brèche, even though there are traces of a path and a cairn!</em></p> <p>Follow the cairned way to the floor of the Gorge de la Veudale where you pick up the main path coming down from the Col de la Terrasse, (on the true left bank). This leads back to the dam.</p> <p>The ridge gets the morning sun. Not much height gain but lots of ups and downs. Allow at least 7-8hrs dam to dam. Very good for practising moving together while roped up. The ridge can be done W-E, but more difficult, D</p>

Grand Perron

Debut de l'arête , facile

Vers la crête de coq de la Pointe Vouilloz. Derrière l'arête de montée à l'Ifala

Lac d'Emosson dominé par le Grand Perron

Près du sommet du Grand Perron

itinéraire perrons

Emosson de Perron

Perrons de Vallorcine - Traversée E >> W

##Approche
Partir du barrage d'Émosson en direction du Vieux Émosson, prendre à gauche le sentier de Loria et le quitter quelques minutes après le col du Passet. Monter dans un vague sentier vers les aiguilles du Van, entouré par les rhododendrons. Quelques cairns en place. Vers 2020 m, en face des aiguilles, et au pied d'une barre rocheuse peu difficile, passer à gauche de celle-ci (toujours sur ce vague sentier qu'on perd et retrouve frequemment). Au-dessus de la barre rocheuse, traverser les éboulis et rejoindre l'arête peu prononcée par des dalles lisses. Arriver sur une zone mi-herbeuse et mi-rocheuse de l'arête, la remonter. 

##Escalade
Prendre la cheminée rocheuse vers la droite : L1
Suivent 6 ou 7 longueurs (me souviens plus bien !) sur l'arête, avec passage d'une belle cheminée et deux ou trois ressauts. Les pas difficiles sont tous protegés par des pitons (une dizaine en tout). Les relais ont été rééquipés. Passages de III+ a IV+ (2 ou 3 pas). sur l'arête. Possibilité de protéger davantage si nécessaire, nombreuses fissures.
L'arête se couche ensuite. Blocs prises faciles pour le sommet.

##Descente
Traverser le sommet et descendre vers le SE puis vers le S en direction de la brèche entre les deux aiguilles. (Facile mais un peu expo par endroits avec la terre et les barres rocheuses). Descendre la brèche, fin des difficultés. Traverser un névé éventuel qui peut être bien gros et assez raide, rejoindre les éboulis de la voie de montée, face à la barre rocheuse. Retour ensuite par le même chemin que la montée.

- Escalade souvent à l'ombre

- Rocher plutôt, voire très lichéneux ! Dommage. Glissant parfois donc.

<p>Acceso Salir desde la presa de Émosson en dirección del viejo Émosson, coger a la izquierda el diedro de Loria y dejarlo algún minuto después del col de Passet. Subir en un sendero hacia las agujas de Van, encerrado por los rododendros. Algún hito. Hacia 2020m, frente a las agujas, y al pie de una barra rocosa poco difícil, pasar a la izquierda de aquella (todavía en este «&#160;sendero&#160;» que perdemos y volvemos a encontrar muchas veces).encima de la barra rocosa, atravesar las tarteras y llegar a la arista poco pronunciada por placas lisas. Llegar a una zona mitad herbosa mitad rocosa de la arista, remontarla. Escalada Coger la chimenea rocosa hacia la derecha&#160;: L1 Siguen 6&#160;o 7 largos (ya no marcado&#160;!) en la arista, con una bonita chimenea y dos o tres resaltes. Los pasos difíciles están todos protegidos con pitones (una decena en total). Las reuniones fueron reequipadas. Pasos de III+ a IV+ (2&#160;o 3 pasos). Ne la arista. Podemos proteger más , si queremos, hay muchas fisuras. Luego la arista se tumba. Bloques presas fáciles para la cumbre. Descenso Atravesar a la cumbre y bajar hacia el SE luego hacia el S en dirección de la brecha entre las 2 agujas. (Fácil pero algo expuesto a veces con tierra y barras rocosas). Bajar la brecha, final de las dificultades. Atravesar un nevero eventual que puede ser muy grande y vertical, llegar a la tartera de ida, frente a la barra rocosa. Volver luego por el mismo camino que la ida.</p> <p>Escalada a menudo en la sombra</p> <p>• Mucho líquen&#160;! una pena. Resbaladizo a veces.</p>

Aiguilles du Van - arista NE

Switzerland

<p>Sommet bifide avec une pointe N (2572&#160;m) et une pointe S (2578&#160;m).</p>