### Acceso
Desde los pueblecitos de Valfroide, subir al refugio de Goléon y llegar al Col Lombard por su vertiente SE. La vertiente N del col Lombard es desaconsejable en verano (barro de esquisto empinado).

### Vía
Desde el collado E del Col Lombard, remontar el corredor de pedreras algo a la izquierda para pasar el primer resalte. Salemos de aquí por una cornisa a la derecha, a la entrada y la salida están marcadas por hitos. Subir entonces en la cara S bordeando primero la arista SW en tarteras (hitos) para llegar a lo alto de una rampa (a menudo un nevero persistente) al pie de corredores que salen de las brechas inferiores y superiores del paso malo, a la izquierda de un promontorio. A inicio de temporada, los corredores están nevados, remontar el de izquierda que sube directamente a la brecha superior. Cuando desaparece la nieve, hay un resalte en los últimos metros (IV+, un pitón). Mejor tirar a la derecha al nivel de la vena de cuarzo blanco para llegar fácilmente a la brecha inferior. Destrepar entonces 10 m en la cara E, para llegar por una conta cornisa (laja para fisureros medianos) la vía de la arista SE que remonta hasta la brecha superior (3 puntos, reuniones con cadena). Desde la brecha superior, tirar una veintena de metros en la cara E para llegar al pie del _Mauvais Pas_ en una chimenea antes de que la arista se haga llana para hacerse fácil hasta la cumbre.

### Descenso
Por el itinerario de ida. Primer rápel o destrepe hasta encima del "Mauvais Pas" (25 m). En la reunión con cadena, podemos también bajar directamente hasta la brecha superior (< 25 m). Hay anillas de rápel en las 2 brechas, pero luego habrá que bajar en terreno fácil pero con roca mediana - pocos sitios para rapelar.

Aunque la roca es digna de la fama de las agujas de Arves, es mejor de lo que parece a primera vista.

<p>Itinerario el más fácil y quiza el más eficaz par allegar aal aguja &#8220;Méridionale d&#8217;Arves&#8221;. Es más directo y menos perdedor que las cornisas de la arista SE (equipado por el CAF Maurienne).</p> <h2>Acceso</h2> <p>Desde los pueblecitos de Valfroide], subir al refugio de Goléon] y llegar al Col Lombard por su vertiente SE]. La vertiente N del col Lombard es desaconsejable en verano (barro de esquisto empinado).</p> <h2>Vía</h2> <p>Desde el collado E del Col Lombard, remontar el corredor de pedreras algo a la izquierda para pasar el primer resalte. Salemos de aqui por una cornisa a la derecha, a la entrada y la salida están marcadas por hitos. Subir entonces en la cara S bordeando primero la arista SW en tarteras (hitos) para llegar a lo alto de una rampa (a menudo un nevero persistente) al pie de corredores que salen de las brechas inferiores y superiores del paso malo, a la izquierda de un promontorio. A inicio de temporada, los corredores están nevados, remontar el de izquierda que sube directamente a la brecha superior. Cuzndo desaparece la nieve, hay un resalte en lo últimos metros (IV+, un pitón). Mejor tirar a la derecha al nivel de la vena de quarzo blanco para llegar fácilmente a la brecha inferior. Destrepar entonces 10&#160;m en la cara E, para llegar por una conta cornisa (laja para fisureros medianos) la vía de la arista SE que remonta hasta la brecha superior (3 puntos, reuniones con cadena). Desde la brecha superior, tirar una veintena de metros en la cara E para llegar al pie del _Mauvais Pas en una chimenea antes de que la arista se haga llana para hacerse fácil hasta la cumbre.</p> <h2>Descenso</h2> <p>Por el itinerario de ida. Primer rápel o destrepe hasta encima del &#8220;Mauvais Pas&#8221; (25&#160;m). En la reunión con cadena, podmos tambien bajar directamente hasta la brecha superior (&lt; 25&#160;m). Hay anillas de rápel en las 2 brechas, pero luego habrá que bajar en terreno fácil pero con roca mediana - pocos sitios para rapelar.</p> <p>Aunque la roca es digna de la fama de las agujas de Arves, es mejor de lo que parece a primera vista.</p>

Aiguille Méridionale d'Arves - Cara S

User

camptocamp

<h2>Géographie</h2> <ul> <li>Col associé à la proéminence&#160;: Col du Mont Cenis (2081&#160;m)</li> <li>Plus proche parent&#160;: Pointe de Ronce (3612&#160;m)</li> <li>Parent principal&#160;: Grand Paradis (4061&#160;m)</li> <li>Rayon de dominance&#160;: 12,61&#160;km</li> <li>Point de limite de dominance&#160;: arête N de la Tête des Corridors (3734&#160;m)</li> </ul> <h2>Historique</h2> <h3>Sommet</h3> <ul> <li>1<sup>re</sup> ascension &#160;: 22 juillet 1878 - Christian Almer père et fils, W. A. B. Coolidge. Par le versant SW de l&#8217;arête SE.</li> <li>2<sup>e</sup> ascension&#160;: 6 juillet 1880 - Christian Almer père et fils, W. A. B. Coolidge, Frederick Gardiner.</li> <li>3<sup>e</sup> ascension&#160;: 23 juillet 1884 - Maximin Gaspard, Pierre Gaspard père, Joseph Mathieu.</li> <li>1<sup>re</sup> ascension féminine&#160;: 14 août 1891 - Maximin Gaspard, Mary Paillon, Émile Rey, Katharine Richardson.</li> </ul> <h3>Itinéraires</h3> <ul> <li>Versant NE de l&#8217;arête SE&#160;: 1<sup>re</sup> ascension&#160;: 13 septembre 1891 - Giuseppe Corrà, Casimir Thérisod.</li> <li>Arête SE depuis le Col des Trois Pointes&#160;: 1<sup>re</sup> ascension&#160;: 8 août 1901 - Felix Abbet (guide), Johann Aufdenblatten (guide), Alfred Allen Booth, Arthur Gregory Whitting.</li> </ul> <h2>Panorama</h2> <ul> <li><a href="https://www.alpen-panoramen.de/panorama.php?pid=33399">Vue de l&#8217;Aiguille de l&#8217;Épaisseur</a> par Martin Kraus.</li> <li><a href="https://www.alpen-panoramen.de/panorama.php?pid=32582">Vue du Goléon</a> par David Aranda.</li> </ul>

Aiguille Méridionale d'Arves

Camptocamp

### Acceso

Desde el parking de Bonnenuit, subir hasta el refugio de Aiguilles d'Arves (2260 m, 1h30). Desde el refugio, seguir el camino bien marcado a por el collado de Aiguilles. En la cota 2500 m, coger a la izquierda, atravesar el ríachuelo y subir todo recto hasta el collado N de Jean-Jean.

### Vía

Desde el collado, seguir la arista fácil hasta la brecha Brulle. En la reunión bajar rapelando algún metro y seguir la grande travesía casi horizontal de la cara E, (1 spit cada 20 m) casi hasta el nivel de la cumbre, luego remontar la cara hasta la brecha superior (3), y pasar el "Mauvais Pas" (5c/A0) y por fin seguir la arista fácil hasta la cumbre.

### Descenso

Bajar hasta la brecha superior. Desde entonces hacer 2 rápeles de 25 m (o 1 solo de 50 m) luego encadenar 3 rápeles más de 50 m que llevan a la grande travesía de la cara. Pues igual que a la ida.

Ningún problema de orientación. Cuando en la brecha Brulle: seguir los spits. Un solo paso técnico: el "Mauvais Pas" (5c/A0), equipamiento cercano en este paso. Técnicamente fácil, lo demás se desarrolla en una muy mala roca. "Caen piedras". Algún sitio de bivac en el sendero del collado de Aiguilles d'Arves.

<h2>Acceso</h2> <p>Desde el parking de Bonnenuit, subir hasta el refugio de Aiguilles d&#8217;Arves (2260&#160;m, 1h30). Desde el refugio, seguir el camino bien marcado a por el collado de Aiguilles. en la cota 2500&#160;m, coger a la izquierda, atravesar el ríachuelo y subir todo recto hasta el collado N de Jean-Jean.</p> <h2>Vía</h2> <p>Desde el collado, seguir la arista fácil hasta la brecha Brulle. en la reunión bajar rapelando algún metro y seguir la grande travesía casi horizontal de la cara E, (1 spit cada 20&#160;m) casi hasta el nivel de la cumbre, luego remontar la cara hasta la brecha superior (3), y pasar el &#8220;Mauvais Pas&#8221; (5c/A0) y por fin seguir la arista fácil hasta la cumbre.</p> <h2>Descenso</h2> <p>bajar hasta la brecha superior. Desde entonces hacer 2 rápeles de 25&#160;m (o 1 solo de 50&#160;m) luego encadenar 3 rápeles más de 50&#160;m que llevan a la grande travesía de la cara. pues igual que a la ida.</p>

der "Mauvais Pas"

Aiguilles d'Arves

arista SE desde el collado N de jean -jean

## Approach

From the parking at Bonnenuit, it is about 1 1/2hrs to the Refuge Aiguille d'Arves. From here take the path into the Coombe des Aiguilles d'Arves and then aim across boulders and broken rock to the Col de Petit Jean (@2hr 15min). From here the route starts where a vague trail meets the face. First bolt visible from the ground.

## Aiguille Septentrionale d'Arves # (ou Tete du chat)

Start by climbing obliquely up and left towards the first bolt visible from the ground. A second bolt about 10m higher marks the start of a traverse across a slaby ledge, first down then up along a break in slabs, more bolts, aiming at the foot of a little chimney. Climb the chimney (IV+) bolt visible at last moment, then continue up the fault line, pitons, ascending slightly left. The angle eases. Climb following easy fault lines, slight right then slightly left (follow easiest line) 3/4 to the summit of the Septentrionale. Look for a first chain rappel point at the edge of the arete which leads towards the south summit. 1st abseil: 25m to chain anchor, left of arete looking down. 2nd abseil: 30m to easy ground or 25m and a little downclimbing to reach easy ground. Looking down you see a breche and slab with violet/white cordalette leading over the slab—aim for this, left of arete looking down. From the couloir climb to the breche (easy but delicate rock) then climb leftwards more easily lines of weakness to the south summit (Bec S) about 3hrs.

To descend downclimb the east face following cairns (easy terrain) some bolts/maillon for abseiling the more delicate sections. Either to the centrale couloir (marked by a big cairn 2×50 m rappels to easy ground), but we didn't identify this easily, or to the normal route ascent couloir which is much more obvious and easier.

## Aiguille Centrale

Start the climb along the higher of two obvious ledge systems which cut the face. This traverses easily up and left with evidence of other people's passage and cairns until a distinct change in aspect of the face. (The same ledge now continues on the other face in descent—but you leave it here. Follow and easy arete which leads to another easy ledge up and rightwards until a large cairn and the ledge begins to descend. Leave this ledge and climb up and leftwards onto another ledge/faultline which heads up and left following cairns. The ledge gets narrower and is protected by a couple of bolts before a breche with cairns and white arrows leading back the way you've just come. At the arrows cut up right across easy ground to the summit.

To descent to the Col de Gros Jean (3265m) from the summit of the Aiguilles Central, first descend to the end of the ledge system where the cairn marked** was and the white arrows. Now first follow the ledge/fault line down in the direction of Col Gros Jean, then soon leave it and follow easy fault lines down and across right into the couloir which leads from the summit towards the Glacier below. Once in the rock couloir continue easily down to another ledge system which is followed (sometimes delicate sections and exposed) to just above the red pinacles before the Col Gros Jean. Traverse or bypass the pinnacles until you reach a rappel at the end from bolts and tape/slings. Short rappel into the col with bivouac places but no water.

## Aiguilles Méridionale

From the Col Gros Jean the main line of the route is a big characteristic corner on the right side of the face. 3/5hrs for the climb. Start by climbing out right onto the west face, slight down and out of sight of the belayer. Pitons almost immediately.

| Pitch | Description |
| ----- | ----------- |
| L1,IV+,45m | Climb out of the bivouac along a sloping ledge, out of sight up and right (Piton) then up a steep wall then ascending rightwards along a fault to belay on two bolts below a chimney/crack system. |
| L2,IV+,30m | Climb the crack system up, then branch left and straight up to the ridge. Belay on two bolts at the top. |
| L3,V+,30m | Climb the maroon wall to the left of the yellow slap, up and leftwards following the line of weakness. Pitons x2, and not so good rock. Belay on bolts at the top, below a corner system. |
| L4,IV,40m | Climb the corner system, mindful of the lose blocks until you can climb the right wall on more solid rock up onto slabs and back into the corner/chimney feature. Belay on a peg and a spike just before the chimney widens and deepens. |
| L5,V,40m | Climb the chimney past a large chockstone, DO NOT continue up this feature which runs to a pinnacle summit on the R of the face, instead traverse left into the left hand branch and continue up easier ground to make a belay where possible. |
| L6,IV+,20m | Climb the easier slabs to just below an overhang and belay on 2 bolts. |
| L7,V+/IV,30m | Climb up and left of the belay ascending leftwards ... friend trapped at mid-height. Belay on bolts. |
| L8,III+,25m | Climb up and right to regain the ridge. Belay on one bolt on the ridge. |
| L9etc,III,150m | Continue up the ridge to the summit. |

## Descent

From the summit: Continue along the south ridge easily on the crest until you find an abseil point on a Spike (Slings, rope, Maillon).

| Pitch | Description |
| ----- | ----------- |
| R1,25m | To a chain belay left of ridge looking down. |
| R2,25m | To an obvious breche which has a piton and bolt abseil anchor. |
| R3,25m | Follow the left edge of the arete which forms the border of the couloir from the breche. |
| R4,25m | To a big obvious ledge. |
| R5,50m | Make a long rappel to a slabby section of rock with no anchor obvious. Pull the ropes and then move about 25m rightwards (Looking down) to find another rappel anchor which is not obvious but has white chord and bolts. |
| R6,50m | Slightly right (Looking down) to another chain. |
| R7,50m | To easy gound and downclimb to obvious ledge or 60m to obvious ledge. slight right (Looking down). |

Now continue along this obvious ledge which cuts the whole face. Easy but exposed. Bolts every 25m. To a prominent breche (Breche Brull). Downclimb into the breche, around the pinnacle and up the other side 2xbolts to a chain belay. III+. Follow the fault line on the left side of the main arete, with bolts every 25m. If you lose the bolts just stay on the left flank staying relatively high on the ridge and even rejoining it after a while until it is possible to enter the big stoney slopes below the point Salvador. Do not descend too much before this point. Then go down and traverse rightwards (looking down) to find the best way down the steep and at times exposed scree slopes. 3/4hrs to the hut.

Considerable loose rock but protected where necessary by bolts. Demands a certain experience with exposed loose rock. Nevertheless very rewarding and enjoyable route if you do not mind a bit of loose rock.

<h2>Approach</h2> <p>From the parking at Bonnenuit it is about 1&#160;1/2hrs to the Refuge Aiguille d&#8217;Arves. From here take the path into the Coombe des Aiguilles d&#8217;Arves and then aim across boulders and broken rock to the Col de Petit Jean (@2hr 15min). From here the route starts where a vague trail meets the face. First bolt visible from the ground.</p> <h2>Aiguille Septentrionale d&#8217;Arves # (ou Tete du chat)</h2> <p>Start by climbing obliquely up and left towards the first bolt visible from the ground. A second bolt about 10m higher marks the start of a traverse across a slaby ledge, first down then up along a break in slabs, more bolts, aiming at the foot of a little chimney. Climb the chimney (IV+) bolt visible at last moment, then continue up the fault line, pitons, ascending slightly left. The angle eases. Climb following easy fault lines, slight right then slightly left (follow easiest line) 3/4 to the summit of the Septentrionale. Look for a first chain rappel point at the edge of the arete which leads towards the south summit. 1st abseil: 25m to chain anchor, left of arete looking down. 2nd abseil: 30m to easy ground or 25m and a little downclimbing to reach easy ground. Looking down you see a breche and slab with violet/white cordalette leading over the slab- aim for this, left of arete looking down. From the couloir climb to the breche (easy but delicate rock) then climb leftwards more easily lines of weakness to the south summit (Bec S) about 3hrs.</p> <p>To descend downclimb the east face following cairns (easy terrain) some bolts/maillon for abseiling the more delicate sections. Either to the centrale couloir (marked by a big cairn 2×50&#160;m rappels to easy ground), but we didn&#8217;t identify this easily, or to the normal route ascent couloir which is much more obvious and easier.</p> <h2>Aiguille Centrale</h2> <p>Start the climb along the higher of two obvious ledge systems which cut the face. This traverses easily up and left with evidence of other people&#8217;s passage and cairns until a distinct change in aspect of the face. (The same ledge now continues on the other face in descent- but you leave it here. Follow and easy arete which leads to another easy ledge up and rightwards until a large cairn and the ledge begins to descend. Leave this ledge and climb up and leftwards onto another ledge/faultline which heads up and left following cairns. The ledge gets narrower and is protected by a couple of bolts before a breche with cairns and white arrows leading back the way you&#8217;ve just come. At the arrows cut up right across easy ground to the summit.</p> <p>To descent to the Col de Gros Jean (3265m) from the summit of the Aiguilles Central, first descend to the end of the ledge system where the cairn marked** was and the white arrows. Now first follow the ledge/fault line down in the direct of Col Gros Jean, then soon leave it and follow easy fault lines down and across right into the couloir which leads from the summit towards the Glacier below. Once in the rock couloir continue easily down to another ledge system which is followed (sometimes delicate sections and exposed) to just above the red pinacles before the Col Gros Jean. Traverse or by pass the pinnacles until you reach a rappel at the end from bolts and tape/slings. Short rappel into the col with bivouac places but no water.</p> <h2>Aiguilles Méridionale</h2> <p>From the Col Gros Jean the main line of the route is a big charecteristic corner on the right side of the face. 3/5hrs for the climb. Start by climbing out right onto the west face, slight down and out of sight of the belayer. Pitons almost immediately. L#1 | 45m | IV+ | Climb out of the bivouac along a sloping ledge, out of sight up and right (Piton) then up a steep wall then ascending rightwards along a fault to belay on two bolts below a chimney/crack system. L#2 | 30m | IV+ | Climb the crack system up, then branch left and straight up to the ridge. Belay on two bolts at the top. L#3 | 30m | V+ | Climb the maroon wall to the left of the yellow slap, up and leftwards following the line of weakness. Pitons x2, and not so good rock. Belay on bolts at the top, below a corner system. L#4 | 40m | IV | Climb the corner system, mindful of the lose blocks until you can climb the right wall on more solid rock up onto slabs and back into the corner/chimney feature. Belay on a peg and a spike just before the chimney widens and deepens. L#5 | 40m | V | Climb the chimney past a large chockstone, DO NOT continue up this feature which runs to a pinnacle summit on the R of the face, instead traverse left into the left hand branch and continue up easier ground to make a belay where possible. L#6 | 20m | IV+ | Climb the easier slabs to just below and overhang and belay on 2 bolts. L#7 | 30m | V+/IV | Climb up and left of the belay ascending leftwards &#8230; friend trapped at mid-height. Belay on bolts. L#8 | 25m | III+ | Climb up and right to regain the ridge. Belay on one bolt on the ridge. L#9etc | 150m | III | Continue up the ridge to the summit.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>From the summit&#160;: Continue along the south ridge easily on the crest until you find an abseil point on a Spike (Slings, rope, Maillon) R#1 | 25m | To a chain belay left of ridge looking down.<br /> R#2 | 25m | To an obvious breche which has a piton and bolt abseil anchor. R#3 | 25m | Follow the left edge of the arete which forms the border of the couloir from the breche. R#4 | 25m | To a big obvious ledge.</p> <p>The 5th rappel is found slightly below the ledge behind the big cairn, chain anchor.</p> <p>R#5 | 50m | Make a long rappel to a slabby section of rock with no anchor obvious. Pull the ropes and then move about 25m rightwards (Looking down) to find another rappel anchor which is not obvious but has white chord and bolts.<br /> R#6 | 50m | Slightly right (Looking down)to another chain.<br /> R#7 | 50m | To easy gound and downclimb to obvious ledge or 60m to obvious ledge. slight right (Looking down). Now continue along this obvious ledge which cuts the whole face. Easy but exposed. Bolts every 25m. To a prominent breche (Breche Brull). downclimb into the breche, around the pinnacle and up the other side 2xbolts to a chain belay. III+. follow the fault line on the left side of the main arete, with bolts every 25m. If you lose the bolts just stay on the left flank staying relatively high on the ridge and even rejoining it after a while until it is possible to enter the big stoney slopes below the point Salvador. Do not descent too much before this point. Then go down and traverse rightwards (looking down) to find the best way down the steep and at times expose scree slopes. 3/4hrs to the hut.</p>

Aiguiles d'Arves

Traversée N >> S

<p>Une belle ligne très aérienne et soutenu tout du long . -Bien repérer l&#8217;itinéraire de monté/descente avant , le cheminement peu changer en fonction de l&#8217;enneigement . -itinéraire raide -Ressaut difficilement protégeable (15&#160;m )-Relais sur 2 pitons + un stopper , cordelette rouge . &#8211;Ouvert par Léo LEDRU , Maxime GOTTELAND , Paul CHOCQUET le 29/12/2019 . De Bonnenuit, monter classiquement au refuge des Aiguilles d&#8217;Arves. Au dessus du refuge, suivre le plat vallon en direction du col Saint-Jean jusqu&#8217;à ce qu&#8217;il se redresse vers le point 2483&#160;m. Contourner le ressaut rocheux par le goulet à droite ou les pentes à gauche, et atteindre le replat 2822&#160;m sous le glacier de Gros Jean . De là, remontez le cône de déjection (direction Sud/Ouest) et visez le couloir étroit avec un large ressaut. Ensuite, gravir le ressaut par la droite, possibilité de mettre un stopper dans une fissure à droite - et peut être une broche dans l&#8217;axe , si glace il y a.Relais dans l&#8217;axe du couloir 3&#160;mètres après le ressaut .La plus grosse difficulté se trouve dans les rétros , montée droite dans un large goulet qui vient buter contre un gros rocher jaune caractéristique .Après cela, une ascendance droite qui vient sous une grosse barre rocheuse , pour ensuite traverser à droite 20/30&#160;m.Viser un goulet/couloir (bordé par des rochers mains gauche) qui se rétrécit et débouche à la crête, une centaine de mètres sous le sommet</p>

Vu depuis la Pointe de l’Épaisseur

skitour

Aiguille Méridionale d'Arves, Méridionale directe ENE

<h2>Ski de randonnée</h2> <h3>Alpes</h3> <h4>Mont Blanc</h4> <p>Mont Blanc</p> <h4>Écrins</h4> <h4>Vanoise</h4> <h4>Vercors</h4> <p>Vercors</p> <h4>Chartreuse</h4> <p>La Chartreuse est un massif bien arrosé qui lui assure un bon enneigement malgré son altitude modeste (Chamechaude étant son point culminant (2082m). La première partie est généralement boisée alors que les sommets sont souvent défendus par de grandes barres rocheuses qui donne a ce massif un caractère qui lui est propre.</p> <h3>Pyrénées</h3> <h2>Alpinisme</h2> <h3>Alpes</h3> <h4>Chamonix - Mont Blanc</h4> <h4>Écrins</h4> <h4>Vanoise</h4> <h3>Pyrénées</h3> <h2>Escalade</h2> <h3>Verdon</h3> <h3>Hautes Alpes</h3> <ul> <li>Céuse</li> <li>Orpierre</li> </ul>

France

<p>Le massif &#8220;Grandes Rousses - Arves&#8221; est à cheval entre les départements des Hautes-Alpes]], de [[areas/14328|l&#8217;Isère]] et de [[areas/14295|la Savoie. Il possède encore de grands glaciers comme celui de Saint Sorlin ou des Quirlies. On distingue parfois le massif des Arves de celui des Grandes Rousses, mais ils sont ici regroupés.</p> <p>Ce massif comporte comme grands sommets&#160;: les Aiguilles d&#8217;Arves]] (culminant à 3514m), le [[summits/37824|Pic Bayle]] (3465m), le [[summits/37850|Pic de l&#8217;Étendard]] (3464m) et le [[summits/39763|Pic du Lac Blanc (3323m) qui est exploité par la station de l&#8217;Alpe d&#8217;Huez, qui se situe sur le versant W du massif. Les grands sommets sont cristallins, mais la zone entre les Grandes Rousses et les Aiguilles d&#8217;Arves est sédimentaire, donnant son caractère aux alpages.</p>

Aiguille Méridionale d'Arves

Géographie

Historique

Sommet

Itinéraires

Panorama

Routes

Aiguille Méridionale d'Arves - Cara S

arista SE desde el collado N de jean -jean

Traversée N >> S

Aiguille Méridionale d'Arves, Méridionale directe ENE

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