Se parece en el estilo y la dificultad a la vía Traces de Gaston. Sale al pie de la aguja del Devenson, da la vuelta por tres largos de travesía al lado del agua, luego sigue el pilar suroeste para llegar a su cumbre (cuatro largos).

### Acceso

Dos posibilidades: Desde Luminy, hacia la Calanque de l'Oeil de verre (o Saint Jean de Dieu), pues coger las corniches Paretti. Pasar los rápeles de Festin de Satan, luego al nivel de la aguja de Devenson bajar en dirección del mar. Inicio en su base, a algún metro encima del mar al lado de bloques grandes. O pasar por la Gardiole, llegar a las crestas del Devenson, bajar a la canal eponima, apuntar la aguja...

### Vía

| Longitud | Descripción |
| -------- | ----------- |
| L1,5b,30m | Travesía al lado del agua, no dudar en bajar. |
| L2,5b+,25m | Igual, si estás demasiado alto perderás los puntos. |
| L3,4b,30m | Un paso al inicio, luego caminata. Reunión sensible cuando viento de oeste. |
| L4,5c,25m | Inicio de la subida. Primero un paso de negociar por la izquierda (no dudar en bajar para buscar las presas buenas), luego hacia arriba en una bonita roca erosionada. |
| L5,5c,25m | Roca un poco deslizada, cuidado; luego bonita roca blanca. |
| L6,5b,25m | Bonito también. |
| L7,6a,30m | Precioso, bonita roca, un paso fino en la mitad (pasar por la izquierda, presas). |

### Descenso

Desde la reunión somital, seguir el pasamanos que recuperamos llegando a la aguja, y tirando un rápel hasta lo bajo de la cara. 25m

2 horas para el acceso ver versión francesa.

<h2>Acceso</h2> <p>Dos posibilidades: Desde Luminy, hacia la Calanque de l&#8217;Oeil de verre (o Saint Jean de Dieu) pues coger las corniches Paretti]]. pasar los rápeles de [[routes/55689|Festin de Satan, luego al nivel de la aguja de Devenson bajar en dirección del mar. inicio en su base, a algún metro encima del mar al lado de bloques grandes. O pasar por la Gardiole, llegar a las crestas del Devenson, bajar a la canal eponima, apuntar la aguja&#8230;</p> <h2>Vía</h2> <p>L# | 5b | 30m | Travesía al lado del agua, no dudar en bajar. L# | 5b+ | 25m | Igual, si estás demasiado alto perderás los puntos. L# | 4b | 30m | Un paso al inicio, luego caminata. reuníon sensible cuando viento de oeste. L# | 5c | 25m | Inicio de la subida. primero un paso de negociar por la izquierda (no dudar en bajar para buscar las presas buenas), luego hacia arriba en una bonita roca erosionada. L# | 5c | 25m | Roca un poco deslizada, cuidado; luego bonita roca blanca. L# | 5b |25m | Bonito tambíen. L# | 6a | 30m | Precioso, bonita roca, un paso fino en la mitad (pasar por la izquierda, presas).</p> <h2>Descenso</h2> <p>Desde la reunión somital, seguir el pasamnos que recuperamos llegando a la aguja, y tirando un rápel hasta lo bajo de la cara. 25m</p>

L'aiguille du devenson vu du sentier vert

Le sentier vert

Aiguille du devenson

le départ d'au pays des merveilles

Première longueur

Au Pays des Merveilles

Camptocamp

camptocamp

<p>L&#8217;Aiguille du Devenson se situe sur le sentier vers, juste avant de traverser le petit couloir. Il est facile d&#8217;escalader son arête N (3a).</p> <p><em>Attention, altitude très approximative</em></p>

Aiguille du Devenson

A remarkable visit to the remote Calanque du Devenson. Amazing views and spaces along the way. Variety of interesting climbing moves on rocks and trees and chains. The cornice section has sustained exposure, well-protected with modern eye-bolts.

The tour given here is a loop from Luminy over the Col de la Candelle by the GR to Col Devenson, then out and back the Corniche Paretti, and return by green + red trails and Pas de l'Oeil-de-Verre to Col de Sugiton. 
Time: 3-4.5 hours out, 3-4.5 hours return.

Quiet sea not required: the Corniche traverse stays far enough above the water. 

**approach to Aiguille Devenson by GR**:
from Parking at Luminy (latitude/longitude approx N43.2304 E5.4366) take the obvious main trail S then SE about 1.6km to Col de Sugiton (N43.2187 E5.4471). Follow GR along road about 1.8km. After road curves right under rock amphitheater and aims S (at N43.2160 E5.4520) Leave the road, turn left onto trail up hill roughly E, and continue following GR about 2km to Col de la Candelle (428m) (N43.2130 E5.4661). Next follow GR at first N, then SE down toward Col des Charbonniers, up to the W summit of the Devenson cliffs (N43.2084 E5.4742), then down E to a low point on the ridge, the Col de Devenson (245m) (N43.2073 E5.4784).

See the top of the spire of the Aiguille du Devenson monolith down far below at the edge of the Sea (not the spire down SW which is above the Sea). Now leave the GR, turn R onto narrow trail and go S down + down toward the Aiguille, at first on an arete in the middle of the valley, then a steep scramble down E (L) side of arete, next down on gravel. Few markings (old faded brown) or none, but the way is mostly obvious. Reach a nearly vertical wall, and use a chain (shiny new in 2013) to go down its R (W) side (an athletic move or two, the rest is careful footwork), and exit R onto an easier slope. About 60m distance / 20 vertical meters lower meet the Green trail. Continue S down this (some tricky moves with exposure) about 60m distance / 40 vertical meters to a notch (N43.2047 E5.4776) by the N side of Aiguille Devenson.

. . (optional side-trip is to climb the Aiguille Devenson by its north ridge, with at least one move of difficulty 3, rather exposed).

**Corniche Paretti traverse**:
The section between Aiguille Devenson and Calanque Devenson is well-marked with Green paint. Total distance about 300m. The exposure is fairly sustained. There are some tricky moves. Well-protected with about 21 modern eye-bolts (shiny new in 2013) and slings around trees.

From the N side of Aiguille Devenson, the Green trail turns L and goes down to E, at first steep, then moderate downward traverse and onto the first shelf. (It could help to look back a couple of times to remember the appearance of East side of Aiguille Devenson, so later on return you'll know when to climb up away from the water.)

Next across a narrow airy cornice, then up a dirt/gravel gully to reach the second shelf. Then down through pine trees and rocks. Last section is a bit dirty, and has some moves on tree roots. The beach of Calanque du Devenson is rocky, with the notable "dromedary" rock a short ways out in the water.

Return from Calanque Devenson is normally by traversing Corniche Paretti again, in the opposite direction W back to Aiguille Devenson - (but there is a more difficult alternative on AltitudeRando

**return from Aiguille Devenson by Green + Red**:
From the base of the N side of the Aiguille, go directly up about 60m distance / 40 vertical meters. (at around N43.2054 E5.4774).
Bear Left to follow Green trail NW. Some trickiness in navigation -- not so many markings. At first tend mostly to continue more horizontal, not get high up near base of cliffs. There may be some sections where need to squeeze through some bushes, and some sections on rock rather narrow and definitely exposed. Later there is a steep exposed down-climb.

About 2km roughly NW to the junction with Red trail. At the junction (N43.2104 E5.4703) with Red trail, Turn L to go down Val Vierge on Red. After about 150m distance reach the Pas de l'Oeil-de-Verre, steep rock section with a chain (shiny new in 2013) and wide steel rungs/stemples like via ferrata. After another 50m distance / 25 vertical meters, the Red trail makes a sharp turn R to go down steep to NW - (if find yourself going a long ways down on wide gravel, then you missed the turn).

Red trail goes fairly close to the Sea once, but then makes a long rising traverse up away from it. It goes below the big Socle de la Candelle cliff. Then the trail gets wider and goes above Calanque des Pierres Tombees, then meets the road and soon the GR joins the road back up to Col de Sugiton.

Corniche Paretti could also be reached from Col Gineste or Col Gardiole.

From Luminy perhaps a little easier and quicker to go out and back the same way on Red + Green trails. But the point of this tour to such a remote place is not just to do some interesting spectacular climbing, but also to do more interesting spectacular hiking, and this loop tour delivers.
(Actually it is great tour even without doing any of the Corniche Paretti traverse.)

Which sense of the loop? Seems like east on the GR and west on Green + Red has nicer views. And taking both Chain sections going downward instead of upward is less strenuous.

<p>The tour given here is a loop from Luminy over the Col de la Candelle by the GR to Col Devenson, then out and back the Corniche Paretti, and return by green + red trails and Pas de l&#8217;Oeil-de-Verre to Col de Sugiton. Time: 3-4.5 hours out, 3-4.5 hours return.</p> <p>Quiet sea not required: the Corniche traverse stays far enough above the water.</p> <h2>Approach to Aiguille Devenson by GR</h2> <p>From Parking at Luminy, take the obvious main trail S then SE about 1.6km to Col de Sugiton. Follow GR along road about 1.8km. After road curves right under rock amphitheater and aims S (at N43.2160 E5.4520). Leave the road, turn left onto trail up hill roughly E, and continue following GR about 2km to Col de la Candelle (428m). Next follow GR at first N, then SE down toward Col des Charbonniers, up to the W summit of the Devenson cliffs, then down E to a low point on the ridge, the Col de Devenson (245m).</p> <p>See the top of the spire of the Aiguille du Devenson monolith down far below at the edge of the Sea (not the spire down SW which is above the Sea). Now leave the GR, turn R onto narrow trail and go S down and down toward the Aiguille, at first on an arete in the middle of the valley, then a steep scramble down E (L) side of arete, next down on gravel. Few markings (old faded brown) or none, but the way is mostly obvious. Reach a nearly vertical wall, and use a chain (shiny new in 2013) to go down its R (W) side (an athletic move or two, the rest is careful footwork), and exit R onto an easier slope. About 60m distance / 20 vertical meters lower meet the Green trail. Continue S down this (some tricky moves with exposure) about 60m distance / 40 vertical meters to a notch (N43.2047 E5.4776) by the N side of Aiguille Devenson.</p> <p>An optional side-trip is to climb the Aiguille Devenson by its N ridge, with at least one move of difficulty 3, rather exposed.</p> <h2>Corniche Paretti traverse</h2> <p>The section between Aiguille Devenson and Calanque Devenson is well-marked with Green paint. Total distance about 300m. The exposure is fairly sustained. There are some tricky moves. Well-protected with about 21 modern eye-bolts (shiny new in 2013) and slings around trees.</p> <p>From the N side of Aiguille Devenson, the Green trail turns L and goes down to E, at first steep, then moderate downward traverse and onto the first shelf. (It could help to look back a couple of times to remember the appearance of East side of Aiguille Devenson, so later on return you will know when to climb up away from the water.)</p> <p>Next across a narrow airy cornice, then up a dirt/gravel gully to reach the second shelf. Then down through pine trees and rocks. Last section is a bit dirty, and has some moves on tree roots. The beach of Calanque du Devenson is rocky, with the notable &#8220;dromedary&#8221; rock a short ways out in the water.</p> <p>Return from Calanque Devenson is normally by traversing Corniche Paretti again, in the opposite direction W back to Aiguille Devenson - (but there is a more difficult alternative by the Hurluberlu couloir).</p> <h2>Return from Aiguille Devenson by Green + Red</h2> <p>From the base of the N side of the Aiguille, go directly up about 60m distance / 40 vertical meters. (at around N43.2054 E5.4774). Bear Left to follow Green trail NW. Some trickiness in navigation &#8211; not so many markings. At first tend mostly to continue more horizontal, not get high up near base of cliffs. There may be some sections where you need to squeeze through some bushes, and some sections on rock rather narrow and definitely exposed. Later there is a steep exposed down-climb.</p> <p>About 2km roughly NW to the junction with Red trail. At the junction (N43.2104 E5.4703) with Red trail, Turn L to go down Val Vierge on Red. After about 150m distance reach the Pas de l&#8217;Oeil-de-Verre, steep rock section with a chain (shiny new in 2013) and wide steel rungs/stemples like via ferrata. After another 50m distance / 25 vertical meters, the Red trail makes a sharp turn R to go down steep to NW - (if you find yourself going a long ways down on wide gravel, then you missed the turn).</p> <p>Red trail goes fairly close to the Sea once, but then makes a long rising traverse up away from it. It goes below the big Socle de la Candelle cliff. Then the trail gets wider and goes above Calanque des Pierres Tombées, then meets the road and soon the GR joins the road back up to Col de Sugiton.</p>

Aiguille du Devenson

Routes

Au Pays des Merveilles

Corniche Paretti

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