<h2>Salita</h2> <h3>Giorno 1</h3> <p>La salita al Rifugio Gastaldi si può effettuare da due punti distinti secondo condizioni ed innevamento, partendo da Pian della Mussa (1787m):</p> <ol> <li>con condizioni di neve sicure ed ottimo innevamento, salire prendendo dapprima in direzione del Canale delle Capre fino all&#8217;Alpe Rocca Venoni (1845m), da qui alzarsi lungo il sentiero estivo tra balze rocciose sul lato destro orografico del canale, fino ad arrivare a pendii più dolci intorno a 2300m. Da qui, seguendo la direttrice della teleferica passare una conca (2400m) e, spostandosi in direzione SSE, in direzione del pilone della teleferica risalire un canale, largo, fino ad arrivare ad un colletto (2650m) da cui, in 5 minuti in direzione SSE si arriva al rifugio</li> <li>da Pian della Mussa (1787m) imboccare l&#8217;ampio vallone, dapprima con boschetto rado, poi sgombro in direzione SSW passando per Ghiaire e seguendo il rio d&#8217;Arnes; a 2200m, in direzione W, si apre un canale sotto un&#8217;alta fascia rocciosa, seguirlo fino al colletto sommitale (2800m circa), nei pressi dei laghi d&#8217;Arnes. A questo punto si è nella conca del rifugio che diventa visibile dopo aver risalito di alcune decine di metri un paio di dossi in direzione N</li> </ol> <p>In caso di abbondante innevamento la strada per il Pian della Mussa è chiusa ed occorre partire da Balme. Occorre portarsi sul lato destro orografico dove una mulattiera, spesso innevata permette di salire al Pian della Mussa, contare 1h 30 in più.</p> <h3>Giorno 2</h3> <p>Dal Rifugio Gastaldi portarsi al colletto a quota 2650m, in direzione N (arrivo della vecchia teleferica); abbassarsi di qualche decina di metri sempre a N ed effettuare un traverso in discesa, sempre in direzione N, dapprima in una conca, poi, sempre traversando in direzione N, superare uno spallone ed entrare nel vallone sotto le Rocce della Ruselle, circa a 2500&#160;m di quota, dove ci si trova al margine meridionale di Pian Gias (sulla sinistra in alto si notano i ruderi del vecchio e dismesso Rifugio Gastaldi). Percorrere il Pian Gias per 10 min. e voltare decisamente verso n verso il ghiacciaio a questo punto evidente. Raggiungerlo per ripidi dossi e traversi. Conviene legarsi sul ghiacciaio della Ciamarella e tenersi a debita distanza dal fronte del ghiacciaio, bene sulla sinistra (destra idrografica). Sbucati sul pianoro glaciale puntare alla depressione esistente tra la Piccola cimarella e la Chalanson. Risalire fin dove possibili con gli sci, e poi eventualmente i ramponi fino al colle. Seguire la cresta sullo spartiacque tra Francia e Italia fino alla cima con alcune difficoltà subito prima della vetta. Panorama super.</p> <h3>Variante di salita</h3> <p>Se la gita viene effettuata in giornata, conviene salire direttamente dal Canale delle Capre</p> <h2>Discesa</h2> <p>Per l&#8217;itinerario di salita fino a 2500m, indi, per non risalire al rifugio, si imbocca il Canale delle Capre. L&#8217;imbocco è stretto e può essere pericoloso a tarda ora oppure con poca neve. Il canale scende per oltre 500m, con pendenza costante di 35° fino a Pian della Mussa.</p>

Col de la Petite Ciamarella

Piccola Ciamarella - Per il Pian Gias

Camptocamp

camptocamp

## Accès au refuge des Évettes
- Depuis l'Écot par le Plan des Roches.
- Depuis l'Écot par les gorges de la Reculaz.
- En passant par l'Ouille du Midi], ce qui permet de faire une petite course, plutôt qu'une simple montée en refuge.
- À ski, en empruntant des remontées de la station de Bonneval. Traversée avalancheuse sous l'Ouille Mouta.

## Itinéraire pour le sommet
Descendre à droite sous le refuge pour se retrouver sur le Plan des Évettes à 2500 m. Parcourir la moraine rive gauche (nombreux cairns) jusqu'au pied du glacier des Évettes à 2600 m et s'encorder. 
_Notes: Ne pas hésiter à demander conseil au gardien car les conditions changent beaucoup (moraine sèche ou beaucoup de neige) et il y a de nombreux points d'eau piégeux._ 

Rejoindre ensuite le plateau glaciaire du cirque des Évettes à 2900 m :

- à ski : vers 2750 m, contourner une barre de séracs par la gauche.
- à pied : remonter la langue de neige qui descend sur la rive gauche de la moraine entre 2650 m et 2850 m

Sur le plateau (2900 m), viser la droite de la barre rocheuse au milieu de la face N (3000 m) car le glacier est plus tourmenté lorsque l'on s'écarte du bord de la barre rocheuse. Remonter la pente (35-40°) avec de grands virages en fonction des conditions pour ensuite viser le Col de la Petite Ciamarella à 3433 m. 
Du col, remonter l'arête SW (40-45°). Le gendarme se contourne côté N, escalade II pour le rocher donnant accès à la croix. _On peut aussi remonter une pente de neige plus raide à gauche sous le col pour rejoindre l'arête plus haut._

##Descente
Descente par le même itinéraire ou par la face N] (départ plus raide et plus exposé).

- Dénivelé pas très élevé depuis le refuge, mais course longue du fait des replats importants (moraine sur le Plan des Évettes).
- Départ du col à ski en S3-S4 soutenu sur 450 m.
- Sortie à faire en début de saison pour de l'alpinisme "estival"

<h2>Accès au refuge des Évettes</h2> <ul> <li>Depuis l&#8217;Écot par le Plan des Roches.</li> <li>Depuis l&#8217;Écot par les gorges de la Reculaz.</li> <li>En passant par l&#8217;Ouille du Midi], ce qui permet de faire une petite course, plutôt qu&#8217;une simple montée en refuge.</li> <li>À ski, en empruntant des remontées de la station de Bonneval. Traversée avalancheuse sous l&#8217;Ouille Mouta.</li> </ul> <h2>Itinéraire pour le sommet</h2> <p>Descendre à droite sous le refuge pour se retrouver sur le Plan des Évettes à 2500&#160;m. Parcourir la moraine rive gauche (nombreux cairns) jusqu&#8217;au pied du glacier des Évettes à 2600&#160;m et s&#8217;encorder. <em>Notes: Ne pas hésiter à demander conseil au gardien car les conditions changent beaucoup (moraine sèche ou beaucoup de neige) et il y a de nombreux points d&#8217;eau piégeux.</em></p> <p>Rejoindre ensuite le plateau glaciaire du cirque des Évettes à 2900&#160;m&#160;:</p> <ul> <li>à ski&#160;: vers 2750&#160;m, contourner une barre de séracs par la gauche.</li> <li>à pied&#160;: remonter la langue de neige qui descend sur la rive gauche de la moraine entre 2650&#160;m et 2850&#160;m</li> </ul> <p>Sur le plateau (2900&#160;m), viser la droite de la barre rocheuse au milieu de la face N (3000&#160;m) car le glacier est plus tourmenté lorsque l&#8217;on s&#8217;écarte du bord de la barre rocheuse. Remonter la pente (35-40°) avec de grands virages en fonction des conditions pour ensuite viser le Col de la Petite Ciamarella à 3433&#160;m. Du col, remonter l&#8217;arête SW (40-45°). Le gendarme se contourne côté N, escalade II pour le rocher donnant accès à la croix. <em>On peut aussi remonter une pente de neige plus raide à gauche sous le col pour rejoindre l&#8217;arête plus haut.</em></p> <h2>Descente</h2> <p>Descente par le même itinéraire ou par la face N] (départ plus raide et plus exposé).</p> <ul> <li>Dénivelé pas très élevé depuis le refuge, mais course longue du fait des replats importants (moraine sur le Plan des Évettes).</li> <li>Départ du col à ski en S3-S4 soutenu sur 450&#160;m.</li> <li>Sortie à faire en début de saison pour de l&#8217;alpinisme &#8220;estival&#8221;</li> </ul>

Petite Ciamarella

Plan des Evettes

Face SW de la Grande Ciamarella

Pointes de Charbonnel et de Ronce

Grande Ciamarella vue de la petite (face N à gauche)

Face N de la Petite Ciamarella

Croix Rousse et Ouille d'Arbéron

Petite Ciamarella - Voie de droite (voie normale)

<h2>Montée</h2> <p>Du refuge Gastaldi, remonter un peu pour passer le Rocca Turo. Sous les restes d&#8217;un monte-charge, descendre d&#8217;environ 150&#160;m&#160;; c&#8217;est assez raide et peut être délicat si c&#8217;est gelé. Couper ensuite à flanc de montagne vers le N puis remonter plein W pour rejoindre le Canale delle Capre puis le Pian Gias. Vers 2900&#160;m virer plein N pour rejoindre le Col de la Petite Ciamarella puis le sommet par l&#8217;arête.</p> <h2>Descente</h2> <p>Pour la descente sur les Évettes, possibilités de descendre par la Face N] ou le versant NW]. En cas d&#8217;enneigement faible, le passage entre les zones crevassées de ce dernier itinéraire peut être assez difficile à trouver &#8220;à vue&#8221; en cas de mauvaise visibilité.</p> <ul> <li><p>Course assez courte.</p></li> <li><p>Belle descente dont le début est un peu plus raide que le reste</p></li> <li><p>Montée E dans sa partie basse puis S. Descente NW.</p></li> <li><p>Accès au refuge Gastaldi: en traversée depuis le refuge d&#8217;Averole] via le Col d&#8217;Arnès] ou le couloir E du Passage du Colerin]</p></li> </ul>

Petite Ciamarella - Traversée Gastaldi >> Evettes

## Ascent
Superb glacial wall with a regular slope at 45° then long sections at 50/55°. Ideal route for becoming familiar with the large faces and the large glacial corridors. Unlike the Couloir des Italiens at Grande Casse, this face is not exposed to serac falls.

Day 1: Climb to the  Évettes refuge: After the Ecot parking lot (2020m) take the well marked way which goes up the south slope via large bends. After going up these large avalanche slopes a large traverse to the left leads you to a small herbish flat spot. The way is divided into 2, a path traverses and easily climbs to the refuge while the second directly climbs the slope above, reaching a broad dale and to the refuge via a traverse to the east. From Ecot to the refuge takes 1h15 to 2h00. 

Day 2: Go back down the flat spot under the Refuge and head for the Évettes glacier. Once on the glacier go up the first slope often in ice (25°) then traverse diagonally to the left (towards the right bank of the glacier) to avoid a slightly threatening serac area. Via snow slopes at 30° it is easy to reach the higher dish of the glacier. Head south-east for the glacier which climbs to the Tonini pass just to the left of the summit of Petite Ciamarella. Go up the slope which recovers gradually until approximately 45° under the Tonini pass. Go past the pass and traverse east until the foot of the north face of Grande Ciamarella. From the refuge to the start takes 1h30 to 2h00.

The snow and ice slope can be climbed via three routes of varying difficulty: -Pass the bergschrund under the first rocky patch located exactly above the bergschrund, go around it on the left and go up the regular slope at 45° to the right above. The slope becomes steeper under the top reaching 50°. Once on the ridge continue easily as far as the summit then to the cross. -Pass the bergschrund further to the left, just to the right of the rocky edge which bars the face vertically. The slope is initially 45° it quickly becomes 50° then 55° at approximately 150 m. Under the ridge go to the left to easily reach the summit. -The last solution is to cross the bergschrund on the left of the rocky edge described above and to go back up the steep corridor (50°) until arriving under the summit serac. Cross the serac via 2 vert steep short pitches at  65° to 75° before reaching the summit. This route should only to be undertaken if the ice conditions are good and if the serac is not threatening. From the bergschrund to the summit takes 1h30 to 3h30.

Bibliography: - Les 100 plus belles Vanoise by C.Maly. - Alpinisme Vanoise Haute Maurienne by P.Col.

## Descent
From the summit go down the ice cap and get a foothold on the snowy ridge which goes to the west. This ridge becomes progressively narrower until it reaches the pass of Ciamarella. Do not hesitate to go over to the Italian side (left-hand side of the ridge). From the pass, a steep snowy or mixed corridor (40/45°) makes it possible to descend the north face. This descent may be difficult, spikes can be used to lay a rappel if need be. A bergschrund may form at the base of this corridor, it is avoided via the left bank. Once on the Tonini glacier, you reach the Tonini pass and refuge via the uphill route. From the summit to the refuge takes 2h30 to 3h00.

This wall is liable to the abrupt changes in weather due to the fact that it is on the border with Italy.

It is possible to choose the difficulty of the climb based to the route used. The face is 500m high, staying concentrated and maintaining the distance are the two main difficulties of this route.

The face is broad and the view free from all obstacles, take advantage of the landscape.

This wall is a popular choice for steep skiing, but optimum conditions are advised (first ascent by Y.Anselmet in the 1970s).

Access:
Go up the valley of Maurienne via Modane and Bessans and continue until Bonneval sur Arc. In Bonneval at the entry of the village, in front of the tourist bureau take the road which descends on the right and cross a bridge on the Arc. An asphalt road leads to the village of Ecot.

<h2>Ascent</h2> <p>Superb glacial wall with a regular slope at 45° then long sections at 50/55°. Ideal route for becoming familiar with the large faces and the large glacial corridors. Unlike the Couloir des Italiens at Grande Casse, this face is not exposed to serac falls.</p> <p>Day 1: Climb to the Évettes refuge: After the Ecot parking lot (2020m) take the well marked way which goes up the south slope via large bends. After going up these large avalanche slopes a large traverse to the left leads you to a small herbish flat spot. The way is divided into 2, a path traverses and easily climbs to the refuge while the second directly climbs the slope above, reaching a broad dale and to the refuge via a traverse to the east. From Ecot to the refuge takes 1h15 to 2h00.</p> <p>Day 2: Go back down the flat spot under the Refuge and head for the Évettes glacier. Once on the glacier go up the first slope often in ice (25°) then traverse diagonally to the left (towards the right bank of the glacier) to avoid a slightly threatening serac area. Via snow slopes at 30° it is easy to reach the higher dish of the glacier. Head south-east for the glacier which climbs to the Tonini pass just to the left of the summit of Petite Ciamarella. Go up the slope which recovers gradually until approximately 45° under the Tonini pass. Go past the pass and traverse east until the foot of the north face of Grande Ciamarella. From the refuge to the start takes 1h30 to 2h00.</p> <p>The snow and ice slope can be climbed via three routes of varying difficulty: -Pass the bergschrund under the first rocky patch located exactly above the bergschrund, go around it on the left and go up the regular slope at 45° to the right above. The slope becomes steeper under the top reaching 50°. Once on the ridge continue easily as far as the summit then to the cross. -Pass the bergschrund further to the left, just to the right of the rocky edge which bars the face vertically. The slope is initially 45° it quickly becomes 50° then 55° at approximately 150&#160;m. Under the ridge go to the left to easily reach the summit. -The last solution is to cross the bergschrund on the left of the rocky edge described above and to go back up the steep corridor (50°) until arriving under the summit serac. Cross the serac via 2 vert steep short pitches at 65° to 75° before reaching the summit. This route should only to be undertaken if the ice conditions are good and if the serac is not threatening. From the bergschrund to the summit takes 1h30 to 3h30.</p> <p>Bibliography: - Les 100 plus belles Vanoise by C.Maly. - Alpinisme Vanoise Haute Maurienne by P.Col.</p> <h2>Descent</h2> <p>From the summit go down the ice cap and get a foothold on the snowy ridge which goes to the west. This ridge becomes progressively narrower until it reaches the pass of Ciamarella. Do not hesitate to go over to the Italian side (left-hand side of the ridge). From the pass, a steep snowy or mixed corridor (40/45°) makes it possible to descend the north face. This descent may be difficult, spikes can be used to lay a rappel if need be. A bergschrund may form at the base of this corridor, it is avoided via the left bank. Once on the Tonini glacier, you reach the Tonini pass and refuge via the uphill route. From the summit to the refuge takes 2h30 to 3h00.</p> <p>This wall is liable to the abrupt changes in weather due to the fact that it is on the border with Italy.</p> <p>It is possible to choose the difficulty of the climb based to the route used. The face is 500m high, staying concentrated and maintaining the distance are the two main difficulties of this route.</p> <p>The face is broad and the view free from all obstacles, take advantage of the landscape.</p> <p>This wall is a popular choice for steep skiing, but optimum conditions are advised (first ascent by Y.Anselmet in the 1970s).</p> <p>Access: Go up the valley of Maurienne via Modane and Bessans and continue until Bonneval sur Arc. In Bonneval at the entry of the village, in front of the tourist bureau take the road which descends on the right and cross a bridge on the Arc. An asphalt road leads to the village of Ecot.</p>