The Bec d'Aigle is the most spectacular peak on the seacoasts of France. The climbing on puddingstone is interesting, and the finish on overhanging crest is some of the most exciting climbing at difficulty grade 2 anywhere -- with dramatic views down over the edge as often as desired -- and unbeatable photo opportunities for climbing moves near its edge. 
The difficulty of climbing is sustained, which might be mentally difficult for persons unaccustomed to that.

Route: From the parking for Parc du Mugel walk roughly South about 250m to the entrance to Parc du Mugel (latitude/longitude approx N43.1654 E5.6061), and continue South on a lane for another 200m. Just before the end of the lane (lat/long N43.1641 E5.6071), turn right on another lane. Go roughly West around N side of a building, then SouthWest, becomes dirt and goes up hill, after about 220m reach a concrete circular basin ("impluvium") for collecting rainwater (lat/long N43.1628 E5.6048). This basin is at the base of a dome of puddingstone rock, at the intersection of two curving drainage ditches each lined with concrete.

Climb West up along the Right-hand drainage ditch about 60m to its top. Then climb up SouthWest then South for about 100m to a col (lat/long N43.1618 E5.6041) - (with two bolts for rappel down SW side). Finish going SouthEast along the overhanging ridge about 100m to the summit of the Bec d'Aigle (lat/long N43.1612 E5.6054). Many of the climbing moves are easier if stay high next to the crest, and this offers dramatic views over the edge, and opportunites for more dramatic photos -- but there is perhaps some added risk that a section of the overhanging ridge might collapse.

Descent: Return the same way.

This short outing can be combined with say the short scramble/hike from Calanque Figuerolles to the Chapelle Notre-Dame de la Garde, or the (much more difficult + technical climbing traverse) Tour of the Bec d'Aigle, or any itinerary which includes climbing up to or rappelling down from the col which is NW from the summit.

<p>The Bec d&#8217;Aigle is the most spectacular peak on the seacoasts of France. The climbing on puddingstone is interesting, and the finish on overhanging crest is some of the most exciting climbing at difficulty grade 2 anywhere &#8211; with dramatic views down over the edge as often as desired &#8211; and unbeatable photo opportunities for climbing moves near its edge. The difficulty of climbing is sustained, which might be mentally difficult for persons unaccustomed to that.</p> <p>Route: From the parking for Parc du Mugel walk roughly South about 250m to the entrance to Parc du Mugel (latitude/longitude approx N43.1654 E5.6061), and continue South on a lane for another 200m. Just before the end of the lane (lat/long N43.1641 E5.6071), turn right on another lane. Go roughly West around N side of a building, then SouthWest, becomes dirt and goes up hill, after about 220m reach a concrete circular basin (&#8220;impluvium&#8221;) for collecting rainwater (lat/long N43.1628 E5.6048). This basin is at the base of a dome of puddingstone rock, at the intersection of two curving drainage ditches each lined with concrete.</p> <p>Climb West up along the Right-hand drainage ditch about 60m to its top. Then climb up SouthWest then South for about 100m to a col (lat/long N43.1618 E5.6041) - (with two bolts for rappel down SW side). Finish going SouthEast along the overhanging ridge about 100m to the summit of the Bec d&#8217;Aigle (lat/long N43.1612 E5.6054). Many of the climbing moves are easier if stay high next to the crest, and this offers dramatic views over the edge, and opportunites for more dramatic photos &#8211; but there is perhaps some added risk that a section of the overhanging ridge might collapse.</p> <p>Descent: Return the same way.</p>

descending the N branch of the "impluvium", lower on NW face

camptocamp

E up W ridge of east peak (highest summit)

puddingstone on W ridge of east peak

higher up on W ridge of east peak

W back along W ridge of east peak

NW face

Camptocamp

<h2>Restrictions</h2> <p>une partie des voies rééquipée sur broche, une partie sur le parc interdit&#160;: http://www.camptocamp.org/forums/viewtopic.php?pid=2139614 !!!Voir <a href="http://cartotheque.calanques-parcnational.fr/index.php/view/map/?repository=usages&amp;project=reglementation_terre">cette carte</a> d&#8217;interdiction sur le site du Parc National</p> <p>Se situe dans le Parc National des Calanques. Lire les restrictions sur cette page.</p> <h2>Divers</h2> <ul> <li><p>En début ou fin de journée, ne pas hésiter à visiter le Parc botanique du Mugel, entre la Ciotat ville et le Bec de l&#8217;Aigle. Accès par la Ciotat, direction &#8220;Les Calanques&#8221;.</p></li> <li><p>Pour les voies des Trois Secs et du Pou Fou&#160;: se garer au parking du Mugel puis accéder au Bec de l&#8217;Aigle en passant par le Parc du Mugel s&#8217;il est ouvert (sinon longer le bord de mer).</p></li> </ul> <h2>Panorama</h2> <p><a href="https://www.panorama-photo.net/panorama.php?pid=8197">Vue de Notre Dame de la Garde, la Ciotat</a> par Jörg Nitz</p>

Bec de l'Aigle (la Ciotat)

!!!!Voie **interdite jusqu'au 7 mars 2021** pour faciliter la nidification du cormoran de Desmarest
!!!!http://www.calanques-parcnational.fr/fr/actualites/nidification-en-falaises-savoir-ou-grimper

### Approche
Du centre de La Ciotat prendre la route en direction de "la Garde", la suivre jusqu'à l'intersection en direction de Notre-Dame de la Garde, et se garer sur un petit parking sur la droite.. Il se situe juste avant un portail fermé dans une épingle à gauche.  
De là, franchir le muretet et suivre le sentier menant à une maison en ruine.  
Option 1 - Juste en y arrivant prendre en épingle à droite un sentier qui descend dans le maquis (pantalons bienvenus...) vers un ravin que l'on traverse et que l'on remonte en face pour gagner la villa de St Frétouse (Point Côté 135). Gagner la crête surplombant la mer. Juste avant celle-ci, repérer un ravin à droite bien marqué dans le poudingue, au fond couvert de buissons de salsepareille.  
Option 2 un poil plus longue - Continuer le sentier pendant une cinquantaine de mètres après la maison puis suivre sur la droite un sentier marqué de points bleus qui descend dans le vallon, remonte de l'autre côté et mène directement au ravin du rappel.  
Descendre au mieux 50 m avant de trouver le premier rappel de 35 m (une corde fixe permet de franchir les 5 derniers mètres avant le rappel).  
Second rappel sur un surplomb en fil d'araignée de 35 m qui mène à un grand talus. Traverser à droite (vers l'W) vers une corde fixe qui mène au dernier rappel de 25 m. De celui-là bien viser la plateforme pour lancer la corde car si elle tombe à la mer il y a risque de la coincer dans les rochers.  
Arrivée sur un replat 10 m au-dessus de la Grande Bleue dans un cadre splendide et sauvage.

### Itinéraire
| Longueur | Description |
| -------- | ----------- |
| L1,6a+ | Dalles très sablonneuses puis surplombs. |
| L2,Marche | Liaison, le long de la corde fixe, puis traverser en oblique à droite pour gagner le départ évident de L3 dans une fissure surplombante. |
| L3,6c/A0 | Remonter la fissure bien équipée de scellements et pitons, puis traverser à gauche sur une vire. |
| L4,5b | Traversée ascendante à droite vers le relais du second rappel. |
| L5,5c | Fissure-cheminée sur poudingue, parfois encombrée de végétation (35 m). |

Superbe voie des falaises Soubeyrannes, à l'équipement parfois un peu vieillissant mais restant très correct.

Départ au bord de l'eau dans le décor fantastique des gigantesques surplombs de poudingue de l'Arche du Prophète et sous les marbrures jaune et orange du grès de la première longueur. Baignade possible.

Escalade déroutante justement sur cette première longueur avec un rocher uniformément couvert de quelques mm de sable, les services de nettoyage ont été plus efficaces pour les 3 longueurs suivantes, intégralement sur conglomérat (poudingue) typique du Bec de l'Aigle. La longueur en 6c passe très bien en A0 sur quelques mètres (près d'une dizaine de scellements ou pitons sur 6 ou 7 m) !

<p>!!!!Voie <strong>interdite jusqu&#8217;au 7 mars 2021</strong> pour faciliter la nidification du cormoran de Desmarest !!!!http://www.calanques-parcnational.fr/fr/actualites/nidification-en-falaises-savoir-ou-grimper</p> <h2>Approche</h2> <p>Du centre de La Ciotat prendre la route en direction de &#8220;la Garde&#8221;, la suivre jusqu&#8217;à l&#8217;intersection en direction de Notre-Dame de la Garde, et se garer sur un petit parking sur la droite.. Il se situe juste avant un portail fermé dans une épingle à gauche. De là, franchir le muretet et suivre le sentier menant à une maison en ruine. Option 1 - Juste en y arrivant prendre en épingle à droite un sentier qui descend dans le maquis (pantalons bienvenus&#8230;) vers un ravin que l&#8217;on traverse et que l&#8217;on remonte en face pour gagner la villa de St Frétouse (Point Côté 135). Gagner la crête surplombant la mer. Juste avant celle-ci, repérer un ravin à droite bien marqué dans le poudingue, au fond couvert de buissons de salsepareille. Option 2 un poil plus longue - Continuer le sentier pendant une cinquantaine de mètres après la maison puis suivre sur la droite un sentier marqué de points bleus qui descend dans le vallon, remonte de l&#8217;autre côté et mène directement au ravin du rappel. Descendre au mieux 50&#160;m avant de trouver le premier rappel de 35&#160;m (une corde fixe permet de franchir les 5 derniers mètres avant le rappel). Second rappel sur un surplomb en fil d&#8217;araignée de 35&#160;m qui mène à un grand talus. Traverser à droite (vers l&#8217;W) vers une corde fixe qui mène au dernier rappel de 25&#160;m. De celui là bien viser la plateforme pour lancer la corde car si elle tombe à la mer il y a risque de la coincer dans les rochers. Arrivée sur un replat 10&#160;m au-dessus de la Grande Bleue dans un cadre splendide et sauvage.</p> <h2>Itinéraire</h2> <p>L# | 6a+ | Dalles très sablonneuses puis surplombs. L# | Marche | Liaison, le long de la corde fixe, puis traverser en oblique à droite pour gagner le départ évident de L3 dans une fissure surplombante. L# | 6c/A0 | Remonter la fissure bien équipée de scellements et pitons, puis traverser à gauche sur une vire. L# | 5b | Traversée ascendante à droite vers le relais du second rappel. L# | 5c | Fissure-cheminée sur poudingue, parfois encombrée de végétation (35&#160;m).</p> <p>Superbe voie des falaises Soubeyrannes, à l&#8217;équipement parfois un peu vieillissant mais restant très correct.</p> <p>Départ au bord de l&#8217;eau dans le décor fantastique des gigantesques surplombs de poudingue de l&#8217;Arche du Prophète et sous les marbrures jaune et orange du grès de la première longueur. Baignade possible.</p> <p>Escalade déroutante justement sur cette première longueur avec un rocher uniformément couvert de quelques mm de sable, les services de nettoyage ont été plus efficaces pour les 3 longueurs suivantes, intégralement sur conglomérat (poudingue) typique du Bec de l&#8217;Aigle. La longueur en 6c passe très bien en A0 sur quelques mètres (près d&#8217;une dizaine de scellements ou pitons sur 6 ou 7&#160;m)&#160;!</p>

Cap Canaille - Immortelles / Grands Ducs - Deux gamins sous la pluie

Cap Canaille - Immortelles / Grands Ducs

Vía de tradicional poco concurrida en un puding fragil a veces. equipamiento de plaquetas con parabolts de 8 o 10 mm correcto en general pero difícil de ver.

### Acceso

Desde le Parc du Mugel, llegar al pie de "l'impluvium" luego atravesar a la izquierda para encontrar el rápel de 50 m (pasamanos + reunión con cadena) que lleva al pie de la Calanque (bajar hasta el árbol al fondo de la garganta).

### Itinerario

| Longitud | Descripción |
| -------- | ----------- |
| L1,5a,25m | Atravesar hacia la izquierda (cable + plaquetas). Reunión al final del cable. |
| L2,5a,25m | Buscar las plaquetas que suben para areiba ??? Reunión a la derecha de la cueva enorme (2 quimicos y pasamanos desde el rápel de acceso). |
| L2',4 | En L1 seguir atravesando después del cable y montar la reunión al nivel de la segunda plaqueta después del cable (plaqueta + bloque a la derecha). Remontar la rampa caractéristica encima hasta uun cabel y llegar a R2 (desequipado). |
| L2'',Caminar | L1 en ensemble para atravesar hasta bajo la cueva grande luego remontar en estas para llegar a la derecha al cable y luego a R2. |
| L3,5b,50m | Subir recto encima siguiendo la línea de plaquetas. Reunión a la derecha en la cueva (2 plaquetas de 8 y 10 mm). |
| L4,4c,50m | Remontar una rampa ascendente característica hacia la izquierda luego subir recto encima. Reunión en una plataforma (2 plaquetas). |
| L5,2,50m | Subir recto encima luego montar una reunión en un arbusto. |
| L6,1 | En ensemble hasta la cumbre |

### Descenso

Desde la cumbre, atravesar hacia la derecha en ensemble sobre 100 m (plaquetas y quimicos). Reunión con dos quimicos al nivel del collado. bajar luego caminando hacia "l'impluvium" luego al "Parc du Mugel".

Vía de tradicional. Solo para escaladores acostumbrados al tradicional, y a la exposición !
Posibilidad de rapelar desde R1 luego desde un árbol bajo R2. luego es más difícil escapar.

<h2>Acceso</h2> <p>Desde le Parc du Mugel, llegar al pie de &#8220;l&#8217;impluvium&#8221; luego atravesar a la izquierda para encontrar el rápel de 50&#160;m (pasamanos + reunión con cadena) que lleva al pie de la Calanque (bajar hasta el árbol al fondo de la garganta).</p> <h2>Itinerario</h2> <p>L#1 | 5a | 25m | Atravesar hacia la izquierda (cable + plaquetas). Reunión al final del cable. L#2 | 5a | 25m | Buscar las plaquetas que suben para areiba&#160;??? Reunión a la derecha de la cueva enorme (2 quimicos y pasamanos desde el rápel de acceso). L#2&#8217; | 4 | | En L1 seguir atravesando después del cable y montar la reunión al nivel de la segunda plaqueta después del cable (plaqueta + bloque a la derecha). Remontar la rampa caractéristica encima hasta uun cabel y llegar a R2 (desequipado). L#2&#8221; | Caminar| | L1&#160;en ensemble para atravesar hasta bajo la cueva grande luego remontar en estas para llegar a la derecha al cable y luego a R2. L#3 | 5b | 50m | Subir recto encima siguiendo la línea de plaquetas. Reunión a la derecha en la cueva (2 plaquetas de 8 y 10&#160;mm). L#4 | 4c | 50m | Remontar una rampa ascendente característica hacia la izquierda luego subir recto encima. Reunión en una plataforma (2 plaquetas). L#5 | 2 | 50m | Subir recto encima luego montar una reunión en un arbusto. L#6 | 1 | | En ensemble hasta la cumbre</p> <h2>Descenso</h2> <p>Desde la cumbre, atravesar hacia la derecha en ensemble sobre 100&#160;m (plaquetas y quimicos). Reunión con dos quimicos al nivel del collado. bajar luego caminando hacia &#8220;l&#8217;impluvium&#8221; luego al &#8220;Parc du Mugel&#8221;.</p>

Piste noire

## Acceso

Desde el Parc du Mugel, bordear el mar hacia la derecha y apuntar el montículo de puding y "l'impluvium" (dedicado a recoger las aguas). Desde lo bajo de l'impluvium, seguir una senda en el bosquete y atravesar hacia la izquierda hacia el rápel (pasamanos blanco + reunión con cadena dos plaquetas). Rápel de 50m hasta el pie de la vía que remonta la garganta: posibilidad de bajar hasta la terraza ancha (1 químico sellado o reunión 4 m a la izquierda) sino hasta el árbol el más abajo al fondo de la garganta.

## Itinerario

| Pitch     | Description |
| --------- | ----------- |
| L1,4b,35m | Desde el pie del rápel, seguir los químicos ascendentes hacia la izquierda, orilla izquierda de la garganta. Reunión con dos químicos después de un resalte. |
| L2,4b,50m | Remontar la placa poco inclinada (~50°); un solo químico lejos. Coger en dirección del inicio de la garganta/canal que se endereze (un químico). Reunión con dos químicos. |
| L3,4c,50m | Remontar la garganta, un poco más vertical, pero ya desequipado. Reunión con dos químicos. |
| L4,4a,>50m | Seguir la garganta abierta y al nivel del primer arbusto encontrado, salir a la derecha. Reunión con dos químicos detrás de otro arbusto. |

## Descenso

Atravesar hacia el N por una senda a lo largo de la vegetación. Luego otras sendas llevan hasta arriba de l'impluvium. Bajar a lo largo de uno de los dos muretes.

<p>!!! <a href="#p2147651">Problema de vecindad</a></p> <h2>Acceso</h2> <p>Desde le Parc du Mugel, bordear el mar hacia la derecha y apuntar el montículo de puding y &#8220;l&#8217;impluvium&#8221; (dedicado a recoger las aguas). Desde lo bajo de l&#8217;impluvium, seguir una senda en el bosquete y atravesar hacia la izquierda hacia el rápel (pasamanos blanco + reunión con cadena dos plaquetas). Rápel de 50m hasta el pie de la vía que remonta la garganta&#160;: posibilidad de bajar hasta la terraza ancha (1 químico sellado o reunión 4&#160;m a la izquierda) sino hasta el árbol el más abajo al fondo de la garganta.</p> <h2>Itinerario</h2> <p>No empezar con el fondo vegetal de la garganta.</p> <p>L#1 | 4b | 35&#160;m | Desde el pie del rápel, seguir los químicos ascendentes hacia la izquierda, orilla izquierda de la garganta. | Reunión con dos quimicos después de un resalte. L#2 | 4b | 50&#160;m | Remontar la placa poco inclinada (~50°); un solo químico lejos. coger en dirección del inicio de la garganta/canal que se endereze (un químico). | Reunión con dos químicos. L#3 | 4c | 50&#160;m | Remontar la garganta, un poco más vertical, pero ya desequipado. | Reunión con dos químicos. L#4 | 4a | >50&#160;m | Seguir la garanta abierta y la nivel del primer arbusto encontrado, salir a la derecha. | Reunión con dos quimicos detrás de otro arbusto.</p> <h2>Descenso</h2> <p>Atravesar hacia el N por una senda a lo largo de la vegetación. luego otras sendas llevan hasta arriba de l&#8217;impluvium. bajar a lo largo de un de los dos muretes.</p>

L'Atelier Bleu, au fond de l'Anse du Sec

La voie suit la goulotte au centre de la photo

Voilà la voie.

Au sommet faire une 60 de mètres.

Depuis l’impluvium, prendre en dessous dans la végétation. (Marques rouges)

L'atelier bleu

Exciting traverse above the Sea and over the four high points of the spectacular Bec de l'Aigle. 
- Exposure as much as each climber wants to choose (how close to the south edge of the ridge/arete you go).
- Easy access from the city of La Ciotat.
- Rock is puddingstone with abundant positive holds.
- Difficulty is mostly grade 2 or less, with one sustained harder section.
- Dangerous breakable and loose rock in at least one section.
. . . (partly avoidable by exiting early from the traverse).

**statistics**:
. uphill walking + climbing vertical: +200 m
. length of climbing at difficulty 2 or higher: 100-250 m
. horizontal distance of ascent: 1.0 km
. horizontal distance of normal descent NW face + return to start: 1.5 km

**approach**: 
From the entry to Anse de Figuerolles, roughly the SW corner of the top of the cliffs. Look ESE to see the West arete/ridge rising up. 

**traverse from west end to col Belvedere**:
Hike up ESE toward the rock of the arete/ridge for about 40m to a bolt with blue paint, then up another 10m to a flat section under a big overhang. Traverse Left around N end of overhang (Variation: Instead traversing R has more interesting climbing around 4b, but the rock that way is very loose). Then SE on rock about 60m up to the West summit (N43.1631 E5.6007). 

Down for about 50m to the first col, steep on both sides. Climb arete over col (or traverse high across the N side of the col), then a thoughtful step (3a) across onto the face to its left. Next about 25m climbing (difficulty 2+ exposed) - (more exciting if stay near R edge) up to 2-bolt anchor, then another 15-20m easier up to the Mid-West summit (N43.1626 E5.6016). Continue ESE down along the ridge about 100m to reach the second col, the Belvedere (N43.1621 E5.6029), with concrete walls. Look E and up to see the crux steep section.

. . (Escape: There is an obvious well-maintained walking trail NE from the Belvedere col down and out about 0.6 km to the entry gate of Parc du Mugel).

**traverse from col Belvedere to East summit**:
Hike + scramble NE, passing left below a small rock tower, up to the base of the crux section. 

This crux section above E from col Belvedere is tricky because it has both more difficult climbing and more breakable and/or loose rock, dangerous both to the climber and to anyone below. For much more detail, see further below "crux section problems + strategies" below under Remarks.
. . . (If have any doubt about handling this, just end this traverse below at col Belvedere and walk out easily down the trail). 

Directly up the face toward the S (R) side of roof is steeper than what has come before. Difficulty around 3a, lacking good protection (as of 2017), and with exposure. Perhaps easier in the upper half to go a bit Left (on rock perhaps more breakable) into the obvious cave under a roof, then traverse back Right (loose rock) to get around the roof (easier climbing than below, but very exposed). Soon reach 2-bolt anchor (as of 2015) above - (pitch of 25m-30m) . ((No intermediate protection hardware as of 2019, and with minimal or no opportunites for protection with Trad gear).

Variation Left: After scrambling up to under the cave and roof, instead walk farther Left to the base of ramp, then up the ramp (much less steep than the direct face) with loose rock up into the cave, then continue across the cave (? might be protection by placing a very long sling around a rock horn ?), then avoid the roof by exiting the right end of the cave (very exposed, but likely not as difficult as the direct face of the Main Route), and up to the 2-bolt anchor.

Variation Right (longer and plenty exposed, but not harder, perhaps more sound rock): Partway up the face toward the cave, near a small pod, instead stay away from the cave by aiming right-ward to follow a ramp up around right to near its top, then aim a bit left and up to the summit. No anchor bolts, but rock horns available above the steeper climbing.

Above the 2-bolt anchor, continue up 40m easier to the Mid-East summit (N43.1619 E5.6039).

From the Mid-East summit, go down easily a short ways to a third col (which is also on the NW face] route). Finally continue ESE upward on dramatic arete, then roughly horizontal to the East (highest) summit (N43.1612 E5.6055).

**descent**: 
Return WNW to the third col, and use the NW face] route to go down then out to the Parc du Mugel entry gate (N43.1654 E5.6061) - (locked at night, often even before dark). From there go roughly N on a street for about 200m, then turn left onto Avenue du Mugel and go W about 500m. Turn L onto Avenue des Myrtilles, S about 130m down + up -- to reach the start of the firefighters road. From there can go West about 140m to the Anse de Figuerolles entry.

Variation (_West + East integrale_): Instead of descending NW, continue E over the summit, then down-climb the ENE face all the way to edge of the Sea, and return along the Sea (at first NW, later NE) to the Parc entry gate by reversing the start of the Traversee Parpeles route.

Nice to use all or part of this route in combination with the Traversée des Parpèles seacoast tour of the Bec de l'Aigle].

Breakable + loose rock: It's not unusual for pieces of puddingstone rock to break off.

Locked gate: The entry gate for Parc du Mugel is locked at night, often even before darkness. The hours of closure are different at different seasons of the year, so check in advance, or you might find yourself with no easy exit after successfully traversing the arete/ridge.

**crux section problems + strategies**:
The section above E from col Belvedere is tricky because it has both more difficult climbing and more breakable and/or loose rock, dangerous both to the climber and to anyone below. Further tricky because it is difficult to both be careful to test for breakable rock and work out more difficult climbing moves at the same time, and in the emotional context of exposure to a substantial fall.

Much of the worst rock is near or in the obvious cave, so one key guideline is that no one be anywhere near under the cave while anyone else is climbing near or in it -- instead wait on the main Belvedere platform for the walkers.
Another key guideline is that each person should either stay well away from the cave, or be especially careful testing for loose rock while climbing near or in the cave. This gets tricky because at least one section of the climbing appears to be easier by going near or in the cave -- and this section comes when feeling exposed (perhaps also tired) above more difficult climbing, so not feeling comfortable to go back down, and also not wishing to take on additional difficult climbing (away from the cave) even higher more exposed.

Possible strategies:

(a) Safest is to exit NE down the walking trail. Perhaps then climb to the East or Mid-East summit by the normal route (extra uphill work, but less dangerous and difficult). Or since those summits are not much different or better than what has come so far, just declare the traverse to be finished and walk out the entry gate - (especially if already completed the Traversee Parpeles before starting the West Ridge, continuing further east along the ridge adds little).

(b) One climber with the leading end of the rope goes up past the cave (by whichever route seems safest considering both difficulty and breakable rock) and continues on to the 2-bolt anchor (as of 2014) higher above -- all with minimal or no protection. Perhaps connect the low end of the rope to some bush near the bottom of the crux section so the following climbers can easily reach it.

If the leader wants to have normal belaying, the belayer must be positioned way far from under the climbing leader or the cave, to avoid getting hit by a falling rock. This likely requires a much longer rope and managing dragging of the rope. Or the low end of the rope could be tied to something at the bottom, and the leader use some rope-solo lead self-belay system. Or since there's at best minimal protection anyway (as of 2017), the leader could simply ciimb it all solo with no belay.

Then each following climber can tie to the rope and then climb with belay from above (with the others still below waiting far away) and climb the main route directly up past near the right end of the cave.

(c) Multiple persons climb together using the Variation Left, staying close together so the impact a breaking or falling rock is less, into the cave and then continue on past it up to the anchor above -- all with minimal or no protection.

<p><strong>statistics</strong>: . uphill walking + climbing vertical: +200&#160;m . length of climbing at difficulty 2 or higher: 100-250&#160;m . horizontal distance of ascent: 1.0&#160;km . horizontal distance of normal descent NW face + return to start: 1.5&#160;km</p> <p><strong>approach</strong>: From the entry to Anse de <a href="http://www.camptocamp.org/parkings/442132/en/figuerolles">Figuerolles</a> (GPS latitude/longitude ~ N43.1674 E5.5987), go ESE on the city street for about 140m, then (at ~ N43.16700 E5.60037) turn Right onto Avenue des Myrtilles and go 10m to the end of the street - (this point could also be reached from the <a href="http://www.camptocamp.org/parkings/417738/en/parc-du-mugel-la-ciotat">Mugel</a> parking), then start climbing up on a firefighters road (dirt) and go S about 250m. Bear Right off the firefighters road onto a dirt trail and continue up S about another 50m, then SW about 30m up to a viewpoint at the top of puddingstone hump (lat/long ~ N43.1638 E5.5996), roughly the SW corner of the top of the cliffs. Look ESE to see the West arete/ridge rising up.</p> <p><strong>traverse from west end to col Belvedere</strong>: Hike up ESE toward the rock of the arete/ridge for about 40m to a bolt with blue paint, then up another 10m to a flat section under a big overhang. Traverse Left around N end of overhang (Variation: Instead traversing R has more interesting climbing around 4b, but the rock that way is very loose). Then SE on rock about 60m up to the West summit (N43.1631 E5.6007).</p> <p>Down for about 50m to the first col, steep on both sides. Climb arete over col (or traverse high across the N side of the col), then a thoughtful step (3a) across onto the face to its left. Next about 25m climbing (difficulty 2+ exposed) - (more exciting if stay near R edge) up to 2-bolt anchor, then another 15-20m easier up to the Mid-West summit (N43.1626 E5.6016). Continue ESE down along the ridge about 100m to reach the second col, the Belvedere (N43.1621 E5.6029), with concrete walls. Look E and up to see the crux steep section.</p> <p>. . (Escape: There is an obvious well-maintained walking trail NE from the Belvedere col down and out about 0.6&#160;km to the entry gate of Parc du Mugel).</p> <p><strong>traverse from col Belvedere to East summit</strong>: Hike + scramble NE, passing left below a small rock tower, up to the base of the crux section.</p> <p>This crux section above E from col Belvedere is tricky because it has both more difficult climbing and more breakable and/or loose rock, dangerous both to the climber and to anyone below. For much more detail, see further below &#8220;crux section problems + strategies&#8221; below under Remarks. &#8230; (If have any doubt about handling this, just end this traverse below at col Belvedere and walk out easily down the trail).</p> <p>Directly up the face toward the S (R) side of roof is steeper than what has come before. Difficulty around 3a, lacking good protection (as of 2017), and with exposure. Perhaps easier in the upper half to go a bit Left (on rock perhaps more breakable) into the obvious cave under a roof, then traverse back Right (loose rock) to get around the roof (easier climbing than below, but very exposed). Soon reach 2-bolt anchor (as of 2015) above - (pitch of 25m-30m) . ((No intermediate protection hardware as of 2019, and with minimal or no opportunites for protection with Trad gear).</p> <p>Variation Left: After scrambling up to under the cave and roof, instead walk farther Left to the base of ramp, then up the ramp (much less steep than the direct face) with loose rock up into the cave, then continue across the cave (? might be protection by placing a very long sling around a rock horn&#160;?), then avoid the roof by exiting the right end of the cave (very exposed, but likely not as difficult as the direct face of the Main Route), and up to the 2-bolt anchor.</p> <p>Variation Right (longer and plenty exposed, but not harder, perhaps more sound rock): Partway up the face toward the cave, near a small pod, instead stay away from the cave by aiming right-ward to follow a ramp up around right to near its top, then aim a bit left and up to the summit. No anchor bolts, but rock horns available above the steeper climbing.</p> <p>Above the 2-bolt anchor, continue up 40m easier to the Mid-East summit (N43.1619 E5.6039).</p> <p>From the Mid-East summit, go down easily a short ways to a third col (which is also on the NW face route). Finally continue ESE upward on dramatic arete, then roughly horizontal to the East (highest) summit (N43.1612 E5.6055).</p> <p><strong>descent</strong>: Return WNW to the third col, and use the NW face route to go down then out to the Parc du Mugel entry gate (N43.1654 E5.6061) - (locked at night, often even before dark). From there go roughly N on a street for about 200m, then turn left onto Avenue du Mugel and go W about 500m. Turn L onto Avenue des Myrtilles, S about 130m down + up &#8211; to reach the start of the firefighters road. From there can go West about 140m to the Anse de Figuerolles entry.</p> <p>Variation (<em>West + East integrale</em>): Instead of descending NW, continue E over the summit, then down-climb the ENE face all the way to edge of the Sea, and return along the Sea (at first NW, later NE) to the Parc entry gate by reversing the start of the Traversee Parpeles route.</p>

view NE from (highest) east peak to La Ciotat city + bay

SE to W ridge of Bec de l'Aigle from city of La Ciotat

approach to W end of W ridge from N

W end of W ridge starts with this roof

up to first summit (W peak) on W ridge

W-ridge traverse

Cap Canaille - Traversée

<h2>Accès</h2> <p>Suivre la route des crêtes sur quelques kilomètres (direction Cassis-La Ciotat), sur le haut la route est presque horizontale tout en serpentant. Puis on arrive sur une franche remontée&#160;: se garer dans la 2<sup>e</sup> épingle à cheveux sur un petit parking avec garde fou en métal.</p> <h2>Approche des voies du secteur</h2> <h3>À pied (Recommandé)</h3> <p>Suivre le chemin jaune jusqu&#8217;en bas (direction Cassis). De là, plusieurs choix&#160;:</p> <ul> <li>Prendre la première descente sur cordes fixes (juste avant la boule des émigrés et passant dans une grotte. Rejoindre le chemin qui longe les falaises direction la Ciotat.</li> <li>Continuer le tracé jaune direction Cassis, en ayant laissé 2 descentes sur cordes fixes. Au niveau du parking de l&#8217;olivier, . On repasse sous les falaises direction la Ciotat jusqu&#8217;au Secteur Belvédère.</li> </ul> <h3>En rappel.</h3> <p>-En 2 rappels depuis le belvédère. Rp1&#160;25&#160;m sur la rambarde (prudence, certaines soudures fissurées) ou sur 1 scellement dans &#8220;morbac ascendant canulard]&#8221; inscription au sol sur une galette de sika Rp2&#160;35&#160;m sur deux points non reliés au niveau d&#8217;une belle terrasse (attention tirage pour rappeler) - En un rappel de 45&#160;m. Depuis le belvédère, descendre direction Cassis en suivant le tracé jaune. Presque à mi-chemin avant la boule des émigrés, le chemin se resserre franchement dans la végétation. Une sente part à gauche puis descend entre 2 murs rocheux. Ici, deux relais chaînés se situent en retrait derrière le mur de gauche.</p>

Cap Canaille - Belvédère

Unique fun scenic exciting seaside traverse around the Bec d'Aigle, the most spectacular peak on the coasts of France.
- stays very close to the water: within 5 meters,
- puddingstone rock is fun to climb on.
- easy access from the city of La Ciotat.
- very uncrowded once on the traverse (because of the difficulties at each end).
- sustained exciting fun climbing (but not difficult) on the exit at west end.
- challenging entry to the east end
- two very exposed (but not so difficult) passages in the middle.
- goes under some giant overhangs.
- can be combined with other climbs on the Bec d'Aigle.

Risks: Handholds and footholds could break off from the puddingstone rock. So if a section has exposure, it is better to rope up even if the climbing seems easy on positive holds.

Difficulties: One short section around 4c/5a (but a clever leader could make it much easier for followers). A short section around 4a/4b which is fully avoidable (or very protectable by the Leader). Several required sections of 3b which are very exposed.

Distances: The distance of the traverse on the puddingstone rock from the viewpoint terrace to the grass at the top of the west exit is about 1400 meters. The distance of the sub-section down close beside the water is about 1200 meters. (And the distance from Parking Mugel to the viewpoint terrace is about 675m, and from the grass at top of west end to parking is about 1000m -- so total loop is about 3 km).

This tour is also called "la Traversée des Parpèles".

**access**

From the parking for Parc du Mugel walk roughly South about 250m to the entrance to Parc du Mugel (latitude/longitude approx~ N43.1654 E5.6061), and continue South on a lane for another 200m, down then up - ends near a building (lat/long ~ N43.1641 E5.6071).

To reach the viewpoint terrace: Turn right and go around the South side of the building, SouthEast about 150m along the edge of the steep slope until see a platform with low white walls: the viewpoint terrace (lat/long ~ N43.1629 E5.6057)

To reach the impluvium: Just before the end of that lane, turn sharp Right onto another lane to go West around the North side of building. Soon look to the SouthWest to a dome of puddingstone rock with the "impluvium": two curving drainage ditches each lined with concrete which intersect at their bottom to form a V shape. After about 50m, leave the lane and aim for the impluvium. Another 100m pass by a cistern. Another 100m enter a grove of trees, then up to the water basin (lat/long ~ N43.1627 E5.6048) at the bottom of the two concrete drainage ditches.

**East entry: reach the narrow cove / chimney**

**big rappel** option: The first choice is whether or not to make one long 50-meter rappel. It's an exciting rappel because you can't see exactly where it is going, and it has a short overhanging section. Its big advantage is that (at least with 60-meter ropes and some diagonal aiming near the bottom) it gets you directly to the tree above the narrow cove and creek, with minimal climbing difficulty (3a) and mimimal risk of a hold breaking off. Which is why it is shown in guidebooks.

The disadvantage is what to do with that long rope afterward. Three main options: (a) pull down the ropes and carry them for the entire traverse -- but there is virtually no use for even one rope that long; or (b) use only one long rope and just leave it hanging from the anchor (and other parties could use it); or (c) have only the followers rappel on that rope, then the Leader pulls the rope back up the top anchor, and hides it somewhere (so the Leader carries only a shorter rope for the entire traverse). Then the Leader uses one of the other options described below to rejoin the followers at the tree above the narrow cove. If the party is doing another climb afterward (especially the summit of Bec d'Aigle by the northwest face]) then it is very convenient to retrieve the rope.

The *anchor* for the big rappel is about 60m SouthEast down from the water basin at the bottom of the impluvium, about 15m directly below a clump of bushes to the SW side of the gully going down to the sea from the water basin. The least exposed and technical way is to start down thrashing through the trees in the gully's NE side, then when get near the level of the clump of bushes, traverse Right (3a) out of the gully. For experienced down-climbers who can handle a little exposure, it is quicker to stay on rock (3b a little exposed) above and SW from the gully. Once get lower than the clump of bushes, look for a white rope which connects the bolts of the anchor (lat/long ~ N43.1625 E5.6053)

**down-climb** option: section 1a: Technically easier but much longer is to start at the impluvium and roughly follow the gully SouthEast down (passing by the second 10m rappel anchor) to the sea (3b). 
section 1b: Quicker to start from the viewpoint terrace, make some zigzags or ups-downs to find easier climbing and trend SW toward the second 10m rappel anchor (4a somewhat exposed).

Section 2: Next go down to the edge of the water below the second 10m rappel anchor and make the exciting entry (with bolt nearby) into traversing under the dramatic overhang of the second rappel, with feet almost in the water (4b on big positive holds). Even if a hold breaks off, just fall into the water. Afterward some easier going toward the narrow cove.

Section 3: Enter the narrow cove low, traverse to its end at a chimney with tree above. Problem is that as you go farther in, the holds get smaller, the climbing goes higher above the water, and the water gets shallower or disappears (4a/4b somewhat exposed). Wouldn't want to have a hold break off there with only 5cm depth of water below. About 20 meters above this are 2 bolts just below a cave (also a thread placement in mouth of cave) which the Leader could use for an anchor to belay the followers on the traverse. And perhaps there might be a bolt lower and closer to the traverse itself.

**shorter rappel** options: 
first 10m rappel: There is an anchor for a 10m rappel near the southwest side of the viewpoint terrace. Doing this rappel avoids the exposed 4a down-climb with complicated route -- which could be pretty intimidating for the first climbing moves of the day, especially for the many many climbers who get little practice in down-climbing.

Second 10m rappel: Much lower and SW from the first rappel is a dramatic overhang with a rappel anchor at its top. The rappel is done completely hanging in free space, a great photo opportunity. But with calm sea, for those who can climb 4b on big holds, doing this rappel is a waste of time.

**traverse East -> West**

From the chimney below the tree above the end of the narrow cove, traverse 10m to a steel cable. Protection 1 bolt at the end of the cable, 1 bolt (with missing or badly-damaged hanger) halfway between tree and cable as of 2017 - (perhaps wrap a short sling around the intermediate bolt?). At least one move with not-so-positive handholds and not-so-positive footholds, with some exposure. Some say it is 4a/4b, some say 5a -- all depends on how you feel about balancing and relying on slopy holds.

Then a ways traversing along the steel cable -- for safety it makes sense to clip onto it with a sling or leash -- most people grab the cable with both hands and hang out on it. After the cable is done, the rock is still steep (3b) with some exposure, could be intimidating if not accustomed to it. Then it gets easier, and about 160m from the chimney + tree there's a little rest platform.

After this it is simplest to just stay close to the sea. There might be various paths, even with bolts, which go up away, but some of these are dead ends. During the first half, there's not much variety of rock or views near the sea, so it is tempting to look for "gardens" up closer to the cliffs -- but unless you know which paths work (or have time to waste retreating from dead ends), it is simple just to stay along the water. 

About 180m south from the resting platform, the coast turns west, now with many more resting spots. Another 200m come to a view of the Semaphore up on the heights of Cap Canaille. The coast turns north and about 80m reach a spot which seems to concentrate the waves crashing onto the rocks -- so that could be a good place to stop for a snack (lat/long ~ N43.161 E5.6045). Coast turns northwest, about 220m to another spot with (lesser) crashing waves. Then an exciting section on a narrow ledge, very exposed. Another 120m go close under a dramatic overhang. Another 80m and find some protruding gray plastic pipes near a blue paint mark underneath a gigantic overhang.

**West exit**

Different parties have made the exit up from water level in different ways -- and new variations might get added -- see the French-language itinerary] description and photos and outing reports. Looking for blue paint marks is often helpful.

Here's a way that worked and had lots of fun climbing ...
After the gray pipes, stay not far above the water - (with another very exposed ledge, short) - until come around a corner to look North into the Anse Gameou bay, and here it looks impossible: overhanging on the right side and a big rock in the water to the left, separated by narrow deep channel. Turn around and perhaps go back about 5-10 m (lat/long ~ N43.1637 E5.5992). 

See arete with little notches rising up R from above near S end of big rock + narrow channel. Climb up thru two little notches (bolt at the second). Next a steep move up on big holds, then continue up an arete almost to its top. Turn left and go down a little under shallow cave, cross some loose rock. Make a generally rising traverse roughly NE, perhaps with some slight zigzags or ups+downs. Following blue paint marks seems to work well. At least one bolt along the way, and another near the end of this rising traverse (and various opportunities to protect by threading slings around protruding rocks or through holes). After that bolt, find another arete going up Right and follow that up to arrive at a grassy platform (lat/long ~ N43.164 E5.600).

**Return to start**: Walk roughly North gently down on vague paths about 40m to reach the firefighters dirt road (lat/long ~ N43.1644 E5.600). North on this about 250m until it meets the city streets. Continue straight N another 150m to Avenue du Mugel. Turn right on that and walk East about 500m toward the Parking and the entrance to Parc du Mugel.

Or more exciting and spectacular: Do the Traverse of the W ridge] to the highest (East) summit of the Bec de l'Aigle, then descend the NW face] route. Or (easier + quicker) stop the traverse at the Belvedere col, then down the walking trail. Or (longer + harder) continue further E over the summit and down ENE to the edge of the Sea, with the Variation "West+East Integrale".

Not good to do this tour when there is a strong wind from East (because reaching the start at the east end requires going close to the water of the Anse du Sec). Also not good with strong mistral (since there is a long section toward the west end which goes northwest close to the water).

Opposite direction? With calm sea, the traverse could be done in the opposite sense, from West to East (but it is much more difficult to find the start at the West end). And the best climbing is most fun if done from East to West.

<p>Risks: Handholds and footholds could break off from the puddingstone rock. So if a section has exposure, it is better to rope up even if the climbing seems easy on positive holds.</p> <p>Difficulties: One short section around 4c/5a (but a clever leader could make it much easier for followers). A short section around 4a/4b which is fully avoidable (or very protectable by the Leader). Several required sections of 3b which are very exposed.</p> <p>Distances: The distance of the traverse on the puddingstone rock from the viewpoint terrace to the grass at the top of the west exit is about 1400 meters. The distance of the sub-section down close beside the water is about 1200 meters. (And the distance from Parking Mugel to the viewpoint terrace is about 675m, and from the grass at top of west end to parking is about 1000m &#8211; so total loop is about 3&#160;km).</p> <p>This tour is also called &#8220;la Traversée des Parpèles&#8221;.</p> <p><strong>access</strong></p> <p>From the parking for Parc du Mugel walk roughly South about 250m to the entrance to Parc du Mugel (latitude/longitude approx~ N43.1654 E5.6061), and continue South on a lane for another 200m, down then up - ends near a building (lat/long ~ N43.1641 E5.6071).</p> <p>To reach the viewpoint terrace: Turn right and go around the South side of the building, SouthEast about 150m along the edge of the steep slope until see a platform with low white walls: the viewpoint terrace (lat/long ~ N43.1629 E5.6057)</p> <p>To reach the impluvium: Just before the end of that lane, turn sharp Right onto another lane to go West around the North side of building. Soon look to the SouthWest to a dome of puddingstone rock with the &#8220;impluvium&#8221;: two curving drainage ditches each lined with concrete which intersect at their bottom to form a V shape. After about 50m, leave the lane and aim for the impluvium. Another 100m pass by a cistern. Another 100m enter a grove of trees, then up to the water basin (lat/long ~ N43.1627 E5.6048) at the bottom of the two concrete drainage ditches.</p> <p><strong>East entry: reach the narrow cove / chimney</strong></p> <p><strong>big rappel</strong> option: The first choice is whether or not to make one long 50-meter rappel. It&#8217;s an exciting rappel because you can&#8217;t see exactly where it is going, and it has a short overhanging section. Its big advantage is that (at least with 60-meter ropes and some diagonal aiming near the bottom) it gets you directly to the tree above the narrow cove and creek, with minimal climbing difficulty (3a) and mimimal risk of a hold breaking off. Which is why it is shown in guidebooks.</p> <p>The disadvantage is what to do with that long rope afterward. Three main options: (a) pull down the ropes and carry them for the entire traverse &#8211; but there is virtually no use for even one rope that long; or (b) use only one long rope and just leave it hanging from the anchor (and other parties could use it); or (c) have only the followers rappel on that rope, then the Leader pulls the rope back up the top anchor, and hides it somewhere (so the Leader carries only a shorter rope for the entire traverse). Then the Leader uses one of the other options described below to rejoin the followers at the tree above the narrow cove. If the party is doing another climb afterward (especially the summit of Bec d&#8217;Aigle by the northwest face) then it is very convenient to retrieve the rope.</p> <p>The <em>anchor</em> for the big rappel is about 60m SouthEast down from the water basin at the bottom of the impluvium, about 15m directly below a clump of bushes to the SW side of the gully going down to the sea from the water basin. The least exposed and technical way is to start down thrashing through the trees in the gully&#8217;s NE side, then when get near the level of the clump of bushes, traverse Right (3a) out of the gully. For experienced down-climbers who can handle a little exposure, it is quicker to stay on rock (3b a little exposed) above and SW from the gully. Once get lower than the clump of bushes, look for a white rope which connects the bolts of the anchor (lat/long ~ N43.1625 E5.6053)</p> <p><strong>down-climb</strong> option: section 1a: Technically easier but much longer is to start at the impluvium and roughly follow the gully SouthEast down (passing by the second 10m rappel anchor) to the sea (3b). section 1b: Quicker to start from the viewpoint terrace, make some zigzags or ups-downs to find easier climbing and trend SW toward the second 10m rappel anchor (4a somewhat exposed).</p> <p>Section 2: Next go down to the edge of the water below the second 10m rappel anchor and make the exciting entry (with bolt nearby) into traversing under the dramatic overhang of the second rappel, with feet almost in the water (4b on big positive holds). Even if a hold breaks off, just fall into the water. Afterward some easier going toward the narrow cove.</p> <p>Section 3: Enter the narrow cove low, traverse to its end at a chimney with tree above. Problem is that as you go farther in, the holds get smaller, the climbing goes higher above the water, and the water gets shallower or disappears (4a/4b somewhat exposed). Wouldn&#8217;t want to have a hold break off there with only 5cm depth of water below. About 20 meters above this are 2 bolts just below a cave (also a thread placement in mouth of cave) which the Leader could use for an anchor to belay the followers on the traverse. And perhaps there might be a bolt lower and closer to the traverse itself.</p> <p><strong>shorter rappel</strong> options: first 10m rappel: There is an anchor for a 10m rappel near the southwest side of the viewpoint terrace. Doing this rappel avoids the exposed 4a down-climb with complicated route &#8211; which could be pretty intimidating for the first climbing moves of the day, especially for the many many climbers who get little practice in down-climbing.</p> <p>Second 10m rappel: Much lower and SW from the first rappel is a dramatic overhang with a rappel anchor at its top. The rappel is done completely hanging in free space, a great photo opportunity. But with calm sea, for those who can climb 4b on big holds, doing this rappel is a waste of time.</p> <p><strong>traverse East -> West</strong></p> <p>From the chimney below the tree above the end of the narrow cove, traverse 10m to a steel cable. Protection 1 bolt at the end of the cable, 1 bolt (with missing or badly-damaged hanger) halfway between tree and cable as of 2017 - (perhaps wrap a short sling around the intermediate bolt?). At least one move with not-so-positive handholds and not-so-positive footholds, with some exposure. Some say it is 4a/4b, some say 5a &#8211; all depends on how you feel about balancing and relying on slopy holds.</p> <p>Then a ways traversing along the steel cable &#8211; for safety it makes sense to clip onto it with a sling or leash &#8211; most people grab the cable with both hands and hang out on it. After the cable is done, the rock is still steep (3b) with some exposure, could be intimidating if not accustomed to it. Then it gets easier, and about 160m from the chimney + tree there&#8217;s a little rest platform.</p> <p>After this it is simplest to just stay close to the sea. There might be various paths, even with bolts, which go up away, but some of these are dead ends. During the first half, there&#8217;s not much variety of rock or views near the sea, so it is tempting to look for &#8220;gardens&#8221; up closer to the cliffs &#8211; but unless you know which paths work (or have time to waste retreating from dead ends), it is simple just to stay along the water.</p> <p>About 180m south from the resting platform, the coast turns west, now with many more resting spots. Another 200m come to a view of the Semaphore up on the heights of Cap Canaille. The coast turns north and about 80m reach a spot which seems to concentrate the waves crashing onto the rocks &#8211; so that could be a good place to stop for a snack (lat/long ~ N43.161 E5.6045). Coast turns northwest, about 220m to another spot with (lesser) crashing waves. Then an exciting section on a narrow ledge, very exposed. Another 120m go close under a dramatic overhang. Another 80m and find some protruding gray plastic pipes near a blue paint mark underneath a gigantic overhang.</p> <p><strong>West exit</strong></p> <p>Different parties have made the exit up from water level in different ways &#8211; and new variations might get added &#8211; see the French-language itinerary description and photos and outing reports. Looking for blue paint marks is often helpful.</p> <p>Here&#8217;s a way that worked and had lots of fun climbing &#8230; After the gray pipes, stay not far above the water - (with another very exposed ledge, short) - until come around a corner to look North into the Anse Gameou bay, and here it looks impossible: overhanging on the right side and a big rock in the water to the left, separated by narrow deep channel. Turn around and perhaps go back about 5-10&#160;m (lat/long ~ N43.1637 E5.5992).</p> <p>See arete with little notches rising up R from above near S end of big rock + narrow channel. Climb up thru two little notches (bolt at the second). Next a steep move up on big holds, then continue up an arete almost to its top. Turn left and go down a little under shallow cave, cross some loose rock. Make a generally rising traverse roughly NE, perhaps with some slight zigzags or ups+downs. Following blue paint marks seems to work well. At least one bolt along the way, and another near the end of this rising traverse (and various opportunities to protect by threading slings around protruding rocks or through holes). After that bolt, find another arete going up Right and follow that up to arrive at a grassy platform (lat/long ~ N43.164 E5.600).</p> <p><strong>Return to start</strong>: Walk roughly North gently down on vague paths about 40m to reach the firefighters dirt road (lat/long ~ N43.1644 E5.600). North on this about 250m until it meets the city streets. Continue straight N another 150m to Avenue du Mugel. Turn right on that and walk East about 500m toward the Parking and the entrance to Parc du Mugel.</p> <p>Or more exciting and spectacular: Do the Traverse of the W ridge]] to the highest (East) summit of the Bec de l&#8217;Aigle, then descend the [[routes/420032|NW face route. Or (easier + quicker) stop the traverse at the Belvedere col, then down the walking trail. Or (longer + harder) continue further E over the summit and down ENE to the edge of the Sea, with the Variation &#8220;West+East Integrale&#8221;.</p>

SW from Mugel to East side of Bec de l'Aigle - traverse along edge of sea

traverse around east side of Bec de l'Aigle

around SE side of Bec de l'Aigle

the way ahead West around S side of Bec de l'Aigle

looking up to S side of Bec de l'Aigle

Tour

Bec de l’Aigle

User

### Acceso

Por el tour du Bec de l'Aigle, bajo el acantilado grande frente al mar después del cabo, notar la brecha grande característica del Belvedère del Parc du Mugel. El inicio de la vía está 50m al S bajo una especie de diedro poco marcado.

Por el belvédère del Parc du Mugel: llegar al belvédère y atravesar desde la brecha hacia el S (cornisas expuestas) hasta R1 de la vía. Bajar rapelando al pie del vía.

### Vía

| Pitch  | Descripción       |
| ------ | ----------------- |
| L1,6b  | Roca frágil       |
| L2     |                   |
| L3,7a  | 6c/7a             |

Escapes posibles: Por las cornisas que llevan al belvédère hacia el N, sino por la vuelta al bec (salida por "l'anse du Gaméou").

Equipado con químicos "clavijas largas" viejas en general (puntos oxidados alrededor), roca frágil, vía poco concurrida. Ambiente inhabitual.

<p>Acceso por el tour du Bec de l&#8217;Aigle. bajo el acantilado grande frente al mar después del cabo, notar la brecha grande característica del Belvedère del Parc du Mugel. el inicio de la vía esta 50m al S bajo una especie de diedro poco marcado. por el belvédère del Parc du Mugel&#160;: llegar al belvédère y atravesar desde la brecha hacia el S (cornisas expuestas) hasta R1 de la vía. bajar rapelando al pie del vía. Vía L# | 6b | | Roca fragil L# | | | L# | 7a | | 6c/7a escapes posibles</p> <p>Por las cornisas que llevan al belvédère hacia el N, sino pror la vuelta al bec (salida por &#8220;l&#8217;anse du Gaméou&#8221;).</p>

Grand Pou Fou - vires exposées menant à R1

Le Grand Pou Fou vu du belvédère

Grand Pour Fou R1 (2012)

le grand pou fou

<h2>Ski de randonnée</h2> <h3>Alpes</h3> <h4>Mont Blanc</h4> <p>Mont Blanc</p> <h4>Écrins</h4> <h4>Vanoise</h4> <h4>Vercors</h4> <p>Vercors</p> <h4>Chartreuse</h4> <p>La Chartreuse est un massif bien arrosé qui lui assure un bon enneigement malgré son altitude modeste (Chamechaude étant son point culminant (2082m). La première partie est généralement boisée alors que les sommets sont souvent défendus par de grandes barres rocheuses qui donne a ce massif un caractère qui lui est propre.</p> <h3>Pyrénées</h3> <h2>Alpinisme</h2> <h3>Alpes</h3> <h4>Chamonix - Mont Blanc</h4> <h4>Écrins</h4> <h4>Vanoise</h4> <h3>Pyrénées</h3> <h2>Escalade</h2> <h3>Verdon</h3> <h3>Hautes Alpes</h3> <ul> <li>Céuse</li> <li>Orpierre</li> </ul>

Bec de l'Aigle (la Ciotat)

Restrictions

Divers

Panorama

Routes